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Old 01-24-2019, 11:32 AM   #61
Elkski
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Im wanting these surfaces tiled. They cut it as if round moulding. And so few screws. I think I will be cutting full width strips. And more screws. I don't see how the kerdi can wrap around such gaps like this.

the first picture is the top above the glass door and I want that tiled, And also out into the room about a foot or more because this is steam shower. The second picture is along the side of the door and notice only one screw in the middle.
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Old 01-25-2019, 10:29 AM   #62
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Maybe I I wasn't clear. I'm having issues of how to transition from tile to painted surface. Specifically on the right side .

On the red line do I have him out square metal on but not mud the tile surface?
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Old 01-25-2019, 11:06 AM   #63
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I replaced this drywall to be flush inside and outside of the glass door. The door hinges on right side looking into shower. I want tile protection to run outside the steam shower somewhat. Does this look blue boundary look ok?

On the right side I want tile on end at red line on end and top of knee wall but the wall outside of shower will not have tile. For that edge I told the mud guy to install square edge but not tape tile surface but he will mud painted wall surface.
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Old 01-25-2019, 11:09 AM   #64
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What's the purpose of that bump-out at the bottom of your red line, Teddy?

Your red line does not appear to be a traffic corner except perhaps the bottom of that bump-out. I'd be inclined to use paper tape with metal strips on such a corner if you plan to tile over half of it, just to make a nice, straight, crisp corner. I'd be inclined to add some fasteners to some of the wallboard.

You can bend your Kerdi over what I see in the photos on the other corners that require waterproofing and will be tiled on both sides.

[Edit] Now that I see your second post while I was typing, I'd advise that you knock off the corners of the drywall that you've replaced. Will be much easier to fold your Kerdi over said corners.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 01-25-2019, 11:32 AM   #65
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The bump out knee wall is for the 14" kerdi ramp. I can trim off 1/4". But I didn't like the jagged 1/2" they had. Yes to more screws. I'm trying to decide where to end my tile on ceiling and front wall. I'm no interior designer maybe I should tile the entire front outside wall? Kerdi ramp shown
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Old 01-25-2019, 12:07 PM   #66
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If I do tile the entire outside front wall which probably looks better it seems like I will want them to tape the horizontal waist high seam all the way to the wall. And maybe even the seam in the corner or at least the screws outside of 3/8" from the tiled wall.

I'm thinking I could let them mud 3" out from the wall on the front wall. Maybe I would have to prime this? But it seems like this would be ok for kerdi if they use minimal mud on front wall.
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Old 01-26-2019, 12:54 AM   #67
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I sure am happy I took3 hours to shim the studs vertical and in a plane. Seems real nice now.
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Old 01-26-2019, 06:35 AM   #68
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I would tile that whole left wall, tile to the ceiling - but not the ceiling, and like cx suggests, use paper backed metal corners on the right side. You'll still need to figure out how you are going to finish/cover the ends of the tile on the right where they end at the corners.

If you have some Kerdi band you can use it on the horizontal left seam. I think taping and mudding that vertical corner on the left is optional. The gap (if small enough) will be hidden by the ends of the tile. If the gap is tight enough you could simply run a bead of caulk to seal the corner.
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:53 AM   #69
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I didn't understand what CX meant by paper and metal edge. This is what I currently have. I wished I had been here to push the metal edge down as far as it would go because it is near 1/4" proud. I am a couple mud steps behind changing my idea to have tile on ceiling. I am thinking about Schluter metal edges and even corners but I have no idea on price. I may ask about changing ceiling. Maybe I should tape and mud and then it would be only 1 step behind when he comes in 8 hours.

Removing metal would be real hard now. He used Staples and now it's mudded. I did take off 4" metal on knee and it wasn't fun to dig out Staples.
I have plans to chalk my mud bed lines and install the bench today.
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Old 01-28-2019, 08:29 AM   #70
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I have question about the better bench slope. I know you are supposed to built up mud 1/4" at rear for a slope. Will the Schluter corners still fit?
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:08 AM   #71
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You talking about Kerdi pre-made corners, perhaps?
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:24 AM   #72
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Yes kerdi inside and outside corners. I have enough to use in entire shower but I don't know if they can handle a 1/4" slope and I wonder how they will work now that I sloped the ceiling so much.
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:33 AM   #73
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All I can tell you is you'll know once you've tried them, Teddy. They might handle that much of an off angle, but I don't remember if I've tried that or not. I do know it's very easy to make those corners in place using some Kerdi Band.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 01-28-2019, 12:25 PM   #74
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i installed the kerdi insert and now working on the drain to get the mudbed slope marked out... I was aiming for 3/8" per foot slope but since the shower is only 48" deep with the linear drain in the middle this is only 22" from edge of drain to back wall or 24" to center of door. so .68" higher to back wall and ,75" to center of door.. this doesn't look like much of a slope and i worry water may run out the walk in door? i will go play with my ramp and see what that looks like. I had planed cutting off some of the ramps thicker side.
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Old 01-29-2019, 08:28 AM   #75
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I just wanted to pause and think about the best process steps.

I was going to slap in the bench and fill it. but now i am thinking I should put kerdi on the walls first. and i am wondering if I should install the drain and mudbed first, then the bench?
My drain floor isn't so flat. I will not be able to just install the foam under it like all the videos show. I even had to chip out cement on one end. the middle is low. Does it work well to scree using the rain? I was going to just put a line on the high side wall and use the drain but I worry about damage to the kerdi on top of the drain. Maybe I need a 1x2 on the wall? that i remove before the mudbed sets? Will I be able to protect the drain while I tile the ceiling and walls?
Then kerdi the floor and tile it.
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