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Unread 10-10-2019, 01:33 PM   #1
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Using Kerdi again after years, few questions.


Was looking for a little confirmation before starting a new shower project. Have done a couple Kerdi showers about 6+ years ago with the kit and went really well.

This time I am looking to use the kit but also instead of drywall as I did before switch to the Kerdi-Board, mostly just because it seems a little faster/easier and lighter. Still need to see if I can find locally the 4x8 panels, but it looks like lowes does carry smaller ones if I have to go that route.

Looks like the kits have changed a little and the pan is also precovered now from when I last used them.

My questions are, last time using schluter products(Dirta/Kerdi) I would always use versabond under kerdi and to set the tile on. I know it would void the warranty in the long run but not worried about that. Is that still acceptable or has anything changed with either product over the years? Assuming Kerdi-Board is the same as the old sheets I use to apply over drywall in regards to setting with Versabond over it.

Other question is, having never used Keri-Board if you use any adhesive to help bond to studs or just the screws? I believe I saw a thread saying some use PL Premium(Couldn’t find thread again). Also could use PL to try and level under the board before screwing if needed?

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Unread 10-10-2019, 01:42 PM   #2
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The new foam shower trays are also a higher density foam, so they are more rigid.

Same deal with versa bond, nothing changed there, but Schluter now sells its own, proprietary modified thinset mortar that it approves for use. So if you do care about the warranty thing and want modified ,you can buy it.
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Unread 10-11-2019, 08:44 AM   #3
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I'm not sure that a construction adhesive is a good idea. You probably should ask Schluter about it. If the stuff says it's okay for use with a foam product, then it will probably work, but otherwise, when you screw it down, the hole created there may allow the adhesive to melt the foam, leaving a void inside.

Do what you need to to level and plumb the walls prior to installing the board whether that's shimming, adding a scab on the side, or planing a crown down.
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
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Unread 10-14-2019, 12:45 PM   #4
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Thanks for the replies. I will fix the walls prior to the Kerdi-Board via sistering some new 2x4/shaving high spots down. One of the corners has almost 21” spacing between studs anyway, so I have to sister a couple to that one since its too big. Would be easier to just throw one in the center, but the ceiling above shower is lowered and staying so I can’t secure a new stud to the top framing. Can’t think of any other options really the way it’s configured.

Did have one question about the subfloor under the tray, hole is way too big and I will be moving the drain a little anyway. Subfloor is ¾ OSB and it looks like it’s in decent shape. Instead of putting a whole new layer over the subfloor I was planning on cutting it bigger – to the joists, then sistering some 2x4 to the joist for more support and an area to glue/screw down a square piece of new OSB. Any issues with that rather than cutting out the entire section? Attached pic of existing after tearout.

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Unread 10-14-2019, 01:06 PM   #5
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Replacing a square is fine but I’d suggest having solid support (via sisters, blocking, etc) under all four edges.
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Unread 10-14-2019, 06:03 PM   #6
Yes si
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Hi Mark,
In regards to getting a stud in that obstructed wall void, maybe try to fasten a couple of “L” bracket to the top of the 2x4 before setting it in the wall void then if you can get your driver in that void you’ll be screwing straight up to the top plate. You may need to split the stud in 2 to get it in then simply “mend “ it with a piece of 2x4. Hope this helps.

Last edited by Yes si; 10-14-2019 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Corrections
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