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Unread 06-04-2019, 08:51 AM   #1
speed51133
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building outdoor bar on concrete slab

I am using cinder blocks and will veneer them with stone. The slab is attached to my house. It extends about 10 feet from the home. There is a consistent pitch for drainage on the slab. It is about 1/4in per foot. Like I said, consistent and not wavy.

The bar will be perpendicular to the home, along the slab edge (actually set back a few inches from the edge). I am trying to decide If I should set the blocks right on the concrete so they all follow the pitch, or if I should try to set them level. If level, I could either grind the concrete level or use shims/mortar to level it. I could also have the blocks follow the slope and just make the counter top level. I was going to pour a concrete counter in place. I plan to redgard the foot print of the bar first to help with moisture within the storage areas of the bar (charcoal bins).

Any recommendations or tips?
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Unread 06-04-2019, 08:57 AM   #2
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Dowel in every other cell with 3/8”rebar and fill them with concrete. It’s best to level your first course with a combination of cutting the underside of the block and building it up with mortar. If you’re comfortable with setting block its best to have bed joints. If not get your first course level then drystack the blocks, but you’ll have to fill every cell solid and have a bond course to tie in rebar throughout everything.
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Unread 06-05-2019, 12:16 PM   #3
speed51133
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thanks for the tip. I wasn't even thinking of doweling or filling cells with concrete.

So you recommend filling every cell? Do the dowels just need to be as tall as the first course of blocks?

I am embarrassed to admit I am considering using PL adhesive to join the blocks instead of mortar. Thoughts on that? this is just a 42in tall bar. Only reason for the PL adhesive is the ease, speed, and cleanliness of dispensing.
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Unread 06-05-2019, 12:35 PM   #4
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Dowel into the slab with 16” rebar scabs, if you have your first course leveled well, you don’t need any mortar/adhesive just stack the block dry and drop 32” rebar in the cells with dowels and fill them all with concrete to lock in the assembly.
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Unread 06-05-2019, 12:58 PM   #5
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Mike ... showing your age ... cinder block?

You need to get the top of the first course level, otherwise all the joints will be sloping down hill ... can you imsgine a shower wall with unlevel joint lines?

As others have mentioned, dowel the first course into thd slab, and you only need to fill the cores that have rebar.

PL is not a good choice to bond the block, but have you considered "sakrete surface bonding cement"? You dry stack the blocks, the smear this stuff all over the outside of the blocks. Meets code, easy to do for someone used to spreading thinset.
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Unread 06-05-2019, 01:26 PM   #6
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I don't get the cinder block comment??? Are blocks considered very old school?? Should I use Kerdi Foam panels instead to look hip and cool??
Also keep in mind the whole thing will be veneered with stone. You wont see any joints.

I have also seen the surface applied bonding cement. Essentially stucco.

EDIT: I never realized cinder blocks were different than concrete blocks. I though cinder block referred to the shape of a masonary unit, essentially a hollow, rectangular block. Now I know...
BTW, I am 40
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Unread 06-05-2019, 01:48 PM   #7
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Cinder block is the old school term, probably from the 40's, dont know the origin ... maybe cuz the rough texture resembled cinders? Anywsy, concrete block is the current name, or cmu if you want to talk like an architect. Concrete masonry unit, as opposed to brick.

Even though you are going to cover it all with tile or stone, building with level courses is still the better way. Yeah, its essentially stucco, but i think it has additives that are made to bond the block into a cohesive blob.

40? Still young. I remember when they werd called hadite blocks. Thst might have been a regional term.
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Unread 06-05-2019, 02:28 PM   #8
speed51133
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from my limited searching cinder blocks are lighter and not as strong as concrete blocks.

cinder blocks use coal ash/cinders....

concrete blocks use fly ash, which is ash from burning coal....

I give up....
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Unread 06-05-2019, 06:29 PM   #9
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I think you're doing the right thing by making it out of concrete blocks. Keep it all masonry and it'll last a long time.
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Unread 06-05-2019, 08:20 PM   #10
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Keeping an eye on this thread.

Another alternative for finishing and bonding from the outside is to screed quikrete surface bonding cement on there. You can use it to join and prep drystack. I've even used it to patch holes in a former builder's stucco over XPS foam job on a home exterior and it bonded very well.

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Unread 06-05-2019, 10:39 PM   #11
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It would be nice to see your plans. I hope you're not one at using one of those terrible built-in grills that don't cook very good and cost a fortune. I like a top of line Weber nat gas grill plus my Weber smokey mountain smoker, and of course a weber kettle with pizza oven. . So I just use a work table.
I can't believe you have to put a dowel every other hole and fill every other hole because when you make a cement block wall you only have to rebar and fill every four feet. Does a table height block box need a bond course?
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Unread 06-06-2019, 07:22 AM   #12
speed51133
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I'll toss some pics up this weekend.

The grill is a big green egg XL. I have two Kitchen Aid cabinets to go in there also. I am going to have the tabletop complete surround the egg, instead of a big square cutout.

I don't care for the totally open look below. I prefer the counter top to surround it as also shown below. There are random pics. I also want to cast the counter in place with an overhang.
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Unread 06-06-2019, 05:51 PM   #13
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It's looking good.
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