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Unread 05-09-2019, 01:17 PM   #46
Metropolitan Ceramics
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In my former life I was Director of Technical Services for MAPEI. You can strip off the low sheen with the Ultracare Heavy Duty Sealer and Coating Stripper then go back over it with the high gloss sealer. It won't hurt the FA. If you have the low gloss sealer left you can use it on the granite. I wouldn't recommend the high gloss since you will be walking on the granite. Actually a polished granite isn't a great idea in a bathroom period, it will be slippery when wet.
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Unread 05-10-2019, 03:49 PM   #47
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Thanks Kevin!

Was hoping I could just top coat with the hi-gloss Dan, are you sure it's necessary to remove the existing sealer? I may not bother if that's the case. Odd I haven't heard anything back from Mapei themselves, they say 24 hours, it's been about 96 with no reply.

I know that the granite will be a bit slippery, but I've seen many polished marble bathroom floors in nice hotels and such. At least it's heated, won't stay wet for long, and a bathmat is always an option. I love the look of it too much, it's worth a minor risk for me. Those shiny feldspars, nothing else can compare. I also got it on clearance quite a while ago for $2.60 a sq.ft, usual price around here is $7-8, and the deflecto says I'm good-to-go, so I'm definitely using it!

I'll try a bit of the low-sheen on a cutoff from the granite floor, see how it looks.

Any advice on whether to seal before or after grouting with the granite? Seems to be some conflicting information on this when searching around.
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Unread 05-12-2019, 05:51 AM   #48
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A bath mat may not be an option on the heated floor, Jesse. I know Schluter does not recommend using one due to the possibility of heat build up under it, thus over heating that section of floor.

A non-backed mat may work, but I can see how one with a no-slip backing would trap heat.
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Unread 05-12-2019, 11:24 AM   #49
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Schluter says in their documentation that area rugs with an R value not greater than 1 are ok on the heated floor, and an area rug is a permanent covering. It cannot be placed over the heat sensor though. A not-too-thick bathmat, being temporary, should be perfectly fine.
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Unread 05-20-2019, 12:11 PM   #50
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Pretty much done now, just waiting on some out of stock tiles for the backsplash. The manufacturer of my floor heating wire says to wait a month before turning it on, are they just being conservative because they don't know what thinset you're using? Do I really have to wait a month? I used versabond.

Backsplash I'm planning is white tile and white grout, and I have some of the grey versabond left. Since it's only a small area, if I'm careful about the edges, will I be ok with the grey thinset, or would you guys recommend getting some white stuff?

Definitely not a fan of a this Mapei low-sheen sealer, doesn't seem to penetrate, more like a clear coat, impossible to get even with a sponge. Leaves a patchy look that's really quite horrible. Was worse before the grouting, but the grouting procedure helped buff some it it out, luckily that's possible. Do not recommend.

I'll get some photos up of the whole thing when I'm finally done. Could I maybe request a thread name change? The title doesn't really reflect the content any more. "Jesse's First go at a Bathroom" or something..

Thanks for all the help so far!
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Unread 05-23-2019, 02:37 PM   #51
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Seems I might just be talking to myself now, but might as well keep this journal going until the end.

Did some searching around about using grey thinset with white tile and grout, and seems I should be fine with non-translucent porcelain as long as I'm careful with the grout lines.

Did some looking around too about having to wait 28 days to turn on a heated floor. Looks like the 28 day waiting period is conservative when using modern modified mortars, like laticrete, recommending only 3 days now. I can't however, find any info on curing time for versabond. The datasheet just says it cures "quickly even in cold climates", but no actual data. This thread has some interesting info about it, with reps from laticrete, nuheat, and warmlyours chiming in.

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin.../t-104638.html

Still nothing concrete (sorry, can't resist a pun) though. How long do the experienced folks around here usually wait? I think I'll go to 21 days, not much curing after that anyway, and probably none with the mortar I used, but I thrive on data, and I hate not knowing for sure!
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Unread 05-24-2019, 06:08 AM   #52
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I also like to know the "why's" and will dig for the answers for as long as it takes. Usually.

You're right, the 28 days is a conservative, CYA number. The manufacturers can't account for every installation variable; type of mortar, how it was mixed, how thick it was applied, type of tile, heat and humidity levels, etc.

Still, they have their reasons for wanting that mortar set before flipping the switch. In my mind, given the expense of the system, the extra time required to install it, and the possibly ruinous results, I wouldn't be inclined to push my luck. And in my case I didn't have to; after the floor was installed I was nowhere close to painting the walls and installing all the electrical.
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Unread 05-27-2019, 11:31 AM   #53
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All done but a few accessories.

Pretty happy with the results, managed to impress my wife as well. spent a long time on layout so none of the grout lines would bother me (OCD). Pleased I was able to line up the curb with the wall tiles, and center the 12" floor tile in the middle of the 13" shower curb tile. Niche came out pretty well, but I need to work on my silicone tooling, especially those three ways! How are you supposed to tool a silicone 3 way? I used a Q-tip dipped in isopropyl and tried my best. Sure is easier to deal with acrylic caulk.

Vanity is the old one repainted, and with a new 2x8 lumber top, exterior urethane stained and clear silicone on the seams.

I'm a bathroom rookie, but an LED lighting veteran, so I made some custom low voltage lighting for the bathroom, including the shower stall, I hate dark shower stalls.

Still a bit of drywall dust in those grout lines, I'll have to do a better job cleaning up. Bit of an odd transition to the bedroom floor too, but I didn't want to extend the tile over the threshold onto the bedroom subfloor, as I thought that might not be wise. End up seeing a bit of bedroom floor under the door when I'm done the bedroom, but I can live with that.

I've been collecting the parts for this reno for a while, grabbing clearance deals as I've seen them. Rocks for the shower floor collected from a local beach. I'll have to add up all the receipts for the little hardware store trips, but pretty sure I'm still under $2000 for this bathroom

Thanks for all the help everyone! Much appreciated.
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Unread 05-28-2019, 08:05 AM   #54
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Nice clean work, Jesse, all on an easily digestible budget.

I do like those LED light strips. When you have a moment would you mind detailing how you did them?
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Unread 05-28-2019, 01:19 PM   #55
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There are big rain-shower heads available, Jesse.
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Unread 05-28-2019, 11:29 PM   #56
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@CX, yeah, I couldn't find any big ones, had to settle for this puny thing.

Thanks Dan. The LED light strips are done with aluminum extrusions I get from ali-express. These are a few examples of the ones I use. The one on the left is a 45 degree, same as I used for the shower. The middle is a flush fit which has to be cut in, and on the right is the surface mount, which is what I used in the bathroom since I didn't replace the ceiling drywall (and the only one with the LED cover installed on it), otherwise I would have used the flush fit. The trick to have nice LED lighting that will last is to use high quality LED lights, typical warm white, around 3000K, unless you're doing an office or workshop space, then around 4000-5000K is good. For nice ambiance to match the quality of incandescent lighting, Hi-CRI (Colour Rendering Index) LEDs are required. This is the tough part, to get these I have to buy in bulk (25 meters at a time). Lower quality LED strips are available in smaller quantity, but they are pretty hit and miss, and you often can't trust the stats from no-name LEDs. I use both 12V and 24V versions, and CSA/UL/ETL power supplies.
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Unread 06-02-2019, 06:18 PM   #57
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If you want to rinse shampoo out of your hair in less than five seconds, actuate RAIN SHOWER HEAD! What a beast!
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