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Unread 06-18-2020, 07:31 PM   #1
jmkeuning
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jkeuning bath number three

I’m starting a new bathroom project. This is going to be pretty simple for me. Floor-to-ceiling tile walls with an acrylic shower pan with two thresholds. This pan I got has a removable flange. Aluminum. It gets siliconed to the base. I’m super-nervous about this. But I see various manufacturers doing it so maybe it’s an acceptable method. I can get comfortable with the flange, but then the instructions say to set the base in mortar and screw the flange to the studs. That makes no sense to me. It seems like that would tend to pull the flange away from the base? Is this a thing now?

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Shower base installation.pdf
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Last edited by jmkeuning; 06-18-2020 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Added installation pdf
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Unread 06-18-2020, 08:08 PM   #2
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I share your concern, James, but it's their product and they can specify how they want you to install it.

I think your options are to install it per manufacturer's instructions or to return it and chose another brand or, preferred, build your own tiled receptor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-18-2020, 09:01 PM   #3
smifwal
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If you ha e to mix mortar then you might as well make your own pan, or as CX said return it and get a different one
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Unread 06-19-2020, 05:23 PM   #4
jmkeuning
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Quote:
might as well make your own pan
I’m considering that. I’ve got a deflection problem in this house though. Post and beam. I haven’t used the calculator but I can just tell. My wife actually asked why don’t just put the same subsystem under this pas as we would if we did a mid deck. I thought was pretty novel.

Anyway, we are going for a really low profile look, which is the other reason I’m not making my own. I think I’ll return it and get an upgrade.

Thanks all.
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Unread 06-19-2020, 05:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James
My wife actually asked why don’t just put the same subsystem under this pas as we would if we did a mid deck. I thought was pretty novel.
'Fraid I'd need a translation of that, James.
Quote:
Originally Posted by James
Anyway, we are going for a really low profile look, which is the other reason I’m not making my own.
Not quite sure I understand that, either. You can make a zero vertical profile receptor using direct bonded waterproofing membrane and tile if you want.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-29-2020, 07:19 PM   #6
jmkeuning
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Ok. Upgraded the shower base to something with factory installed flanges. (Regarding my most recent comment, that thing is so packed with typos that the message got completely lost.)

So question about waterproofing. My previous two projects were a shower surround, floor-to-ceiling tile with a mortar shower base. That installation had no curtain or glass because of the way it was shaped. The second project was tile around a soaker tub/shower set up. I used tar paper behind backer board for both of those installations.

Is there any reason to use red gard instead of tar paper? This installation is basically the same as my previous shower except this time I have the factory shower base and glass surround.

Also to be clear- I use tar paper OR red gard right? Not both, because of the moisture sandwich problem?

Also, this is great - my walls are more than one inch out of plumb! So that cost me almost an entire day. Pretty sure it’s mitigated though, so no real reason to mention it now except for a placeholder in case it does come up again.

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Last edited by jmkeuning; 06-29-2020 at 07:25 PM.
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Unread 06-29-2020, 10:40 PM   #7
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Roofing felt is a very good material to use as a moisture barrier behind mud or CBU walls, James, but for a tub/shower installation (or similar receptor as in your case) I would prefer polyethylene sheeting because it is much easier to form where it drapes over the tiling flange. I leave the poly long, draped well into the tub or receptor, and cut it off only after the wallboard or mud is installed.

And yes, you use either the moisture barrier behind the CBU or a direct bonded waterproofing membrane on the face of the CBU, but not both.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-02-2020, 08:06 PM   #8
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To clarify on the flange pulling away from the base after you screw it to the studs...


From the image you supplied, it looks like they are asking you to shim between the wall and the flange, right? How would the flange be pulled from the base after proper shimming?
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Unread 07-02-2020, 10:16 PM   #9
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We always expect some movement, especially between vertical and horizontal surfaces. My concern isn’t a lot of movement, just enough to pull in the silicone and wear it out after a few years.
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Unread 07-02-2020, 10:18 PM   #10
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I’m using goboard for this bathroom. One wall will transition from goboard to drywall. Can I use 1/2” drywall and tape the joint where the two products meet? Or is there anything to be aware of ?
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Unread 07-02-2020, 10:40 PM   #11
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If it's outside the wet area that would be fine, James, but I've not ever used GoBoard and don't know if it's an actual 1/2" thick.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-07-2020, 08:47 PM   #12
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Well I’m glad I asked what I thought was an obvious question. That’s a good point about the thickness so I went all goboard on the tile wall. Thanks.

Question about thinset for my tile on goboard

This is my tile: https://www.homedepot.com/p/MSI-Palo...L8X8/302877150

This is my polymer modified thinset: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-B...SG50/100162542

But I also see this stuff, which they say is for porcelain but also mention 12x12 tiles. : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-B...MW50/202519208

Is the stuff I have sufficient? Or do these 8" porcelain tiles require special thinset?
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Unread 07-07-2020, 09:01 PM   #13
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Goboard question: I’ve got the board up and sealed and realize that I didn’t maintain the 1/8" gap that they clearly recommend. What’s the risk? That the boards will expand and collide and start popping my tiles off or at least cracking the thinset?

What’s the remedy? Can I cut some expansion joints?

I used 9 sheets, so that’s $200, a few hundred screws, and about half a day’s work. So, costly but not compared to the shower wall failing.
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Unread 07-07-2020, 09:25 PM   #14
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The VersaBond is sufficient for your application. You really have no need for an A118.15 mortar for what you're doing.

I moved your question about your GoBoard installation here for continuity.

I've not used GoBoard and don't really know its composition and therefore the specific reason for their gapping requirements. It appears, though, that they intended you to have put the panels together with a bead of their sealant between the panels when you installed them. Did you do that?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 07-07-2020, 09:47 PM   #15
jmkeuning
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I didn’t use their sealant, I used one from the list that they published before they developed their own product. I used OSI Quadmax.

And I applied it to the edges of boards and then smooshed the boards together until the stuff squeezed out, like the instructions, but I didn’t pull back to leave a gap.

I’m tempted to cut a v-notch at all of the seams. As deep as I can go with out cutting the poly that’s stapled to my studs. Then I’ll fill the v with adhesive and spread it according to the instructions.

I mean, I’m more tempted to leave it as-is. I haven’t seen any stories of this stuff getting wet and buckling.
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