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Unread 05-21-2014, 12:13 AM   #1
Viz
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Floating without scratching

Hello everyone. First time Posting.
I have a customer who wants me to scratch and float her shower but does not want it to pass the drywall which is 5/8 thick. I tried to tell her to use hardibacker and we can waterproof after, but she is determined to have it floated. My question is can I paper and latch and then float the walls the same thickness as the drywall with out scratching or do I have to scratch and just try to keep it as tight as possible? Been looking for a thread for a few days but could not find one. Thanks in advance
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Unread 05-21-2014, 12:51 PM   #2
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Welcome, Vis.

You can use a cleavage membrane and metal lath (minimum 2.5lb) directly over the wall studs and a scratch coat and "leveling" or "brown" coat of Portland cement mortar totaling 5/8ths" thickness if that's what you're asking.

There is at least one very long thread in the Professionals' Hangout about mud work that you may want to look at.
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Unread 05-21-2014, 05:24 PM   #3
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this shower wall was, paper, wired, scratched and floated to meet 5/8ths drywall so that I could install tile over the existing drywall to the left all in the same plain. the secret was to keep it thin and use the drywall ass your float strip.
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Unread 05-21-2014, 05:47 PM   #4
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I do it that way quite often. Like Shaun said, make your scratch coat real thin. Right on the edge of the sheetrock where it meets the mud, I'll nail a thin strip of wood, maybe 1/8 thick, then my tile will have a small joint behind it, plus it gives me 1/8 more mud. Use very small finish nails if you use the thin stick. Use the thin stick to ride your straight edge on.
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Unread 05-21-2014, 10:15 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies guys. The other question would be if I can float it in one day or do I need to scratch one day then float the next day?
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Unread 05-21-2014, 10:17 PM   #6
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Industry standards require a minimum of 24 hours cure between scratch and brown.
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