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Unread 10-18-2020, 05:58 AM   #46
Stuart
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Thank you for the answers.


"3. Is a 1/8" gap from tub and 1/4 " from wall correct?"

>>3. Possibly, but for what?>>


I thought you are suppose to leave a gap. Is it not required?
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Unread 10-18-2020, 07:38 AM   #47
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The gaps are required, Stewart.

1/8" between the tub and tile is fine. 1/4" between the wall board and tile is fine, too, but a 1/16th tighter won't be a problem given the size of the room.
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Unread 10-20-2020, 03:48 AM   #48
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Hi,

Does the hardiboard need to be primed?

The TDS says "All Lightweight cement or Gypsum surfaces should be primed with aproperly applied sealer or a primer coat of RedGard.

In another world I live "should" is a recomendation over "must or shall"

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Unread 10-20-2020, 08:28 AM   #49
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Sorry, the TDS for what product is requiring the primer over the Hardiebacker?

The ceramic tile industry doesn't recognize any gap smaller than 1/8th" as a movement accommodation joint.

Must and Shall are requirements, Should is a recommendation. But in product manufacturers' instructions, the recommendations are generally considered to be requirements, too.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-20-2020, 03:44 PM   #50
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Sorry, it was the Versabond thinset from a previous post. I was not expecting to need to prime the floor, but the data sheet says it's recommended.

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Unread 10-20-2020, 09:50 PM   #51
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You can get by quite well just dampening that Hardiebacker if you're tiling directly to it with thinset mortar. You want the surface damp, but not wet. The Hardiebacker can absorb quite a bit of water, so no need to be bashful about the process, just be sure the surface is not wet when you start setting the tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-25-2020, 11:09 AM   #52
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Hi,

Back again..finally to the point of cutting my tiles. I have a inexpensive Skill wet saw (which may be my problem), but I keep getting to the end of my 12 x 12 porcelin tile and it breaks rather than cut. I tried to cut through other than the last 2 inches or so and flip the tile. It still breaks where the two cuts meet.

I bought a new blade (Dewalt), it cuts nice, but actually chips along the length way more than the blade that came which the saw.

Any pointers/suggestions.

Would a manual tile cutter work better?

Thank you
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Unread 10-25-2020, 01:55 PM   #53
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Is this a sliding table saw? If so, do the tracks run parallel with the blade and does it wobble? Is the table flat?

DOes it use a water pump to spray the blade, or is it dipping into a tank to keep it wet? Is the spray getting both sides of the blade?

Is there any wobble in the blade?
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Unread 10-25-2020, 03:47 PM   #54
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Hi,

Thank you for the reply. No, it's not a sliding saw. The blade does not wobble, it makes good clean cuts, at least the older blade. The new blade chips. I will double check the tightness and fit. Also no water pump, just a trough that spits up water as the blade turns.

I think I may have figured out a trick. I noticed the tile always will break with the "nub" on the same side. With knowing that, I can determine which way to feed the tile to get the "nub" on the side I want to keep. Then I can smoothly grind the nub out...
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