Before we begin...

[Davy]

I was about to mention a small wall that the glass would rest on. You beat me to it. I also agree that you'll need a glass door.

[Elkski]

I see no reason to remove the kerdi if your going to put kerdi board on the bench. Glass all the way across would look great but price it out first. Most likely ugly shampoo bottle(s) will be sitting on that bench so a wall may be a good idea. you could tile the outside.

[cricketlegs]

Ok, so I think we're going to go with a wall and glass door. Going glass the whole way across would be too costly.

Tiling it outside sounds like the best idea too, but we're having a hard time trying to figure out just how to treat the outside corners of the wall with the tile. We're thinking of using the subway tile, but how to we make the corners meet and look nice?

[Elkski]

That wall will save lots on glass and hide the costco hair products bottles. I am a fan of schluter metal trim. Rondec or quadec would look good. It's great for the front of the bench, both sides of side wall and around the shower. No need for bull nose. It's less than 20$ for an 8'+ stick. Various finishes. I also like dikex-eke for the vertical joints that shouldn't be grouted but caulked. It does require anal math and planning.

[cricketlegs]

Thank you! That's exactly what we need.

Oh...another question, what would be the proper order to tile the shower (walls, bench, floor, curb)? And when staring, do you go from center out or top down? And do you tile everything and then grout everything all at once?

If there's a guide somewhere that I can be pointed to, that would be great, so I don't keep bothering you guys for answers.

[Elkski]

Put a ledger board up a few tiles from the bottom. Subway I recall. Then do walls up. Then floor. Then do bottom couple rows. Of course you try to check the layout to make sure no slivers top or bottom.

[Davy]

I start on the back wall first wrapping the pattern thru the corners.

[cricketlegs]

Thanks again, guys!

[cricketlegs]

So, a little bit of miscommunication between my husband and me lead me to add the liquid polymer to my unmodified thinnest for the patch I put on sloped ceiling where I had the air bubble. Is this going to fail? Should I redo the patch?

When buying the Schluter trims (Rondec, etc). You buy the size that correlates with your tile thickness, right? And for continuing a pattern around corners...I won't be able to do that going up the slope. Is that going to look bad?

On a better note, I got the wall up.

[Davy]

I wouldn't redo the patch. I think it'll be fine.

Yes, buy the right Schluter trim that fits your tile thickness.

You are right. You won't be able to get the pattern to flow from the back wall to the sloped ceiling. Sometimes it's best to change the ceiling tile to something else, just depends on what the wall pattern is and how it all looks. Sometimes if I'm using small tiles for the shower floor, I'll do the same on the ceiling. That way nothing ties in.

[cricketlegs]

Thank you for that idea! I wondered if that would work but I didn't want it to be too busy. I do have extra floor tiles because we had planned it for the entire bathroom but turns out it wouldn't work with the Ditra. And the subway tile for the ceiling could go on the outside wall which keeps me from buying more of that.

Think my floor tile will look ok up there?

[cx]

Dawn, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

[Stuart]

"Yes, buy the right Schluter trim that fits your tile thickness"

Hi...I also just finished selecting the right profile thickness, I learned you also need to consider the thickness of your thinset and how much it may raise the tile against the profile. ...good luck

[cricketlegs]

CX, thanks for moving my question.

Stuart, thanks for the input. If I have 1/4" tiles and use a 1/4" trowel for thinnest that would, of course, be 1/2", but taking the squish into account, a 3/8" trim should do, yes??

[cx]

Probably not.

If by "1/4" trowel" you mean a 1/4x1/4" square notch trowel, you'll find that you'll probably be able to meet the required 3/32nd" mortar thickness after the tile is set. That presumes you're holding the trowel at an angle of about 45 degrees to the substrate and you're mortar is mixed correctly, etc. The only way you'll know what your final thickness will be is to set a tile using your trowel and your mortar and your technique over your substrate.

You might wanna call the mother ship (800-472-4588) and ask for their recommendation.

I think they usually recommend the same profile height as the tile thickness and remind folks that their edge trim profiles are set into the same mortar bed as are the adjacent tile and the tile edge will be slightly (1/32nd"?) higher once both are set, which is acceptable. What is not acceptable is for the profile to end up higher than the tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.