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Unread 01-07-2021, 05:58 PM   #76
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Thanks for all the feedback, this forum has been invaluable. Planning is of course difficult when, how does the saying go... there are known knowns, known unknowns, and unknowns I should know but am a total idiot most likely over his head . Will post a weekend warrior update.
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Unread 01-07-2021, 06:26 PM   #77
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Using laticrete sheet membrane + laticrete bonding flange. In the installation video it shows painting laticrete liquid membrane on the top plate. In the instructions pdf, it just says to press the top plate into thinset. Asking now so I can place an order for the liquid membrane, though it will be painful since the rest of the shower will be sheet membrane.
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Unread 01-08-2021, 06:40 AM   #78
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Not sure I understand that either, Mark, seems like it should be membrane OR liquid.

A call to Laticrete seems prudent at this point.
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Unread 01-08-2021, 10:44 AM   #79
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Mark, in the case of Laticrete, who makes both a liquid-applied membrane and a sheet membrane for waterproofing (ANSI A118.10) I think that drain can be used with either type.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-08-2021, 12:24 PM   #80
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Yes- I couldn't figure out the mechanics of why the waterproofing is applied to the top plate at all -- it's 100% abs plastic. It would make sense if it were sealed off to prevent water from leaching between the flange and top plate.

In any case, awaiting customer service to hear what to do with the top plate when using a sheet membrane. Will post response.
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Unread 01-10-2021, 11:38 AM   #81
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So I know you don't condone this, but if I were to fill this void with thinset, would unmodified be better than modified?

This is pretty much the most egregious void. I just added sister studs everywhere I could- there are diagonal braces that get in the way. I feel this is the closest I can get while staying sane and not stalling for months on this step
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Unread 01-10-2021, 11:14 PM   #82
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Weekend wrapped up. Redid all the leveling using sister studs instead of shims. I cut 2x4's into pieces that fit between blocks between studs, which also made it easier to give each piece a couple of passes on the jointer.

Sistering added a lot of wood to the wall, but it took 1/3 the time of shims and has a far superior result. I'm not sure how thick floated walls are, but another benefit is a little less space removed from the small (1949) shower.

I opened the ceiling up to tie in the shower glass supports to joists. There is some concern about the 2x2x4's that the door will attach to since if I pull somewhat hard on it (maybe 50 lbs ), it flexes a degree or so. I'll be more concerned tomorrow if I keep bracing it a little more and the flex is still around.

I also made the curb 2.5 2x4's, since that is the minimum height that is within code relative to the drain location.

Feeling like the momentum is finally moving on this project.

During the week I'll focus on organizing the workspace since that got a little crazy today.
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Unread 01-10-2021, 11:57 PM   #83
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Also, I may be water proofing as of next weekend. I bought a *ton* of sheet membrane, and want to practice before I do the real thing. What should I check for to ensure a successful seal?
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Unread 01-11-2021, 09:17 AM   #84
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Not sure there's an effective way to test the seal by simply bonding to small pieces of membrane together, Mark.

Why did you decide to have those left side doubled 2X's outside of the wall cavity? How'd you tie them into the top plate? Also, how are you going to hide that right side blocking at the top?
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Unread 01-11-2021, 09:46 AM   #85
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If you wanna practice with your sheet-type direct bonded waterproofing membrane, Mark, get you a cardboard box and apply the membrane inside it, folding your own corners. That'll give you a feel for handling the membrane and if you do it correctly you should be able to fill the box with water and have no leaks.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-11-2021, 11:22 AM   #86
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How to hide the block is a good question, Dan. Good enough to seriously embarrass me. That's just what fit, but I really (clearly) didn't think about it as I was installing it -- there is some room to move it up from the current location, and this clearly needs to be redone.

The 2x2x in the side you circled are out because the abutting wall frames cabinet that I was hoping to not take out to save time. The cabinet frame uses 2x's with the long side facing inside the shower. I could potentially remove all of them and pivot inwards so that the entire frame around the closet is with 2x's that face towards the shower. This will enable the 2x2x's that hold the door to have horizontal blocks for support. This will lop 2" off the length of the floor space in the shower, and about 30% of my remaining sanity. Still, fine doing things right than having a failure later down the line.

On the other side, there is a vent pipe immediately behind where the 2x2x's are, but they are also bumped out in order to have a symmetric appearance.
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Unread 01-11-2021, 11:26 AM   #87
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Will try that out, CX. Though the waterproofing weekend is soon to be set back a week depending on Dan's advice
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Unread 01-11-2021, 02:50 PM   #88
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On further inspection, it's less than a degree of pivot on quite a bit of force (maybe 60 lbs), and on a section that could still stand to be reinforced a bit more before making a final verdict on stability.

I'll also do some surgery to fix the derp related top blocking that is popping out. Still wincing at how I let that happen.

The fixed-end is much worse off for wobble- it moves 1/4" with a few lbs of force. I think on both ends I'll try some horizontal braces in front of all the studs using 3/4" stock. Starting to get pretty ugly in regards to a crisscross of patch work, but it will all be hidden until this house is demolished to make way for condos. This way I'll lose 1.5" of length rather than 2.25", and I can strengthen the corners where I plan to put shelf-e's.
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Unread 01-13-2021, 06:45 PM   #89
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In anticipation of a successful fix of the supports and shower pan this weekend, to confirm type S mortar is ok for the curb? The tile elf said no mortar


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Unread 01-13-2021, 07:56 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark
The tile elf said no mortar
Can you expand on that a bit, Mark? Roger said no mortar on a shower curb? No mortar in a shower? No mortar on his French toast? What?

Yes, you could use the Type S mortar over expanded metal lath on your traditionally made shower curb.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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