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Unread 01-04-2021, 09:09 AM   #61
markch
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Thanks, Dan.

Yet another question - there are some voids/cups in the CBU (< 1/4").

Can these just be filled with thinset (modified or unmodified) and screeded off before applying sheet membrane?

Alternatively, if multiple layers of thinset on thinset are bad, I was thinking of filling when applying the sheet membrane by using a 2' straight edge to squeeze out excess thinset. I'm using Laticrete 254.
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Unread 01-04-2021, 09:57 AM   #62
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Mark, low spots on the CBU panels suggests that your wall studs are not all flat/in plane/plumb. The right tile to address non-flat walls are before any wall boards go up, accomplished by sanding/planning/shimming/sistering the studs. It can be an arduous task, but worth it when one starts installing the tile.

Set a long straight edge across your panels at various heights to get an idea how off things might be. If you've only a few spots here and there, and they aren't deep, you might be able to level them out with mortar - though that's not an approved use of mortar. Don't even think about trying to do the same when you hang the membrane, not gonna work.
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Unread 01-05-2021, 03:07 PM   #63
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Turning my attention to framing for the door+glass panel, there is a vent pipe right behind where I would want to place a stud (first photo with a junction box in it) for the fixed side of the doors. The other side has a 2x4 surrounding a closet that I believe is auxiliary (not structural).

For the side with the vent pipe, I can open the wall up more to do horizontal blocking. For the hinged side, it would not be possible to do double studs that have the long side parallel to the door, unless I remove an entire closet behind it.

The hinged side can get 1 1/2" thread engagement (the entire 2x4), but the stud itself will likely need to be tied into ceiling joists.

This all seems a bit ad-hoc for a frameless install. It is ok if it has to go with a framed install ( and will save a lot of the cost).
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Unread 01-05-2021, 04:50 PM   #64
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Also, thanks for steering me back in the right direction, Dan. CBU is coming down and I'll make good use of the 8' straight edge and liberal sistering of studs.
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Unread 01-05-2021, 05:32 PM   #65
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PVC/polystyrene shelf for mudbed

In a recent video by Sal DiBlasi instead of leveling the edges around the pan first, and then screeding down to the drain (for a Schluter bonding flange drain I believe), he screwed strips of kerdi-board to the walls at the final level for the mud pan, and then simply screeded off of the board down to the drain.

I like how this takes away some variables. Is this a common approach with a surface-based waterproofing barrier? Can I set the screed line with any old plastic composite, thinking of some 1/2" PVC molding that is available?

Apologies for a few different back to back topics, I'm heading to the BBS and try to combine as many different items in one trip to limit trips.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 09:39 AM   #66
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Mark,

Keep in mind that the weight of the fixed panel will not be held up by the wall framing, it will basically rest on the floor/curb and the wall brackets simply keep it from wobbling. You may want to add some lengths of 2X4's to the sides of that existing stud so that the placement of the glass mounting brackets doesn't have to be so exact or, depending on where and how wide your curb is, allows you to move the glass outward thus providing more room inside the shower.

The hinged side definitely needs support since the weight of the door does hang on the studs.

IMO, though a framed glass system might make some things easier, if yours was mine I'd go to great lengths to avoid framed glass - including rebuilding that closet. Water will get between the glass and the frame eventually, hard water spots and mineral deposits and soap/shampoo on the frame, it'll all be tough to keep clean. Again though, IMO.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 10:37 AM   #67
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Thanks, Dan, that makes sense. Looks like there is a lot of chopping plaster in my near future. Will expose studs on either side of the fixed panel in order to add horizontal blocking. The hinged side will definitely need to be tied into the ceiling joists. Unfortunately it may need to be bumped out. Do they need to be tied into floor joists as well? The bumped out studs would currently land between two joists onto the subfloor. Alternatively the curb will be fixed to the joists, and the bumped out 2x's would attach firmly to the curb.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 12:31 PM   #68
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Any advice on the overall aesthetics of a bumpout? I don't know if that's the correct term. But I've added two renderings of the finished shower, one with just a 2x4 bumpout (red), and one with an exaggerated wall. Seems claustrophobic in the extended version.

The rendered door frame is framed since that's what I could find in little time on sketchup, but does not reflect the plan.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 12:50 PM   #69
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The bottom of the wall studs should be sitting on bottom/sole plates, Mark, and the tops to the tops plate. The bottom plate should be sitting on the subfloor, and the top plate should be attached to the ceiling joists/trusses. Wouldn't hurt to ensure both the top and bottom plates are securely attached, and then ensure the studs are firmly anchored to those.

As far as the renderings go, more open is better. Keep in mind though that your location might have a minimum shower entry opening so that might dictate the overall width of yours. In my area it's 24".
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Unread 01-06-2021, 01:11 PM   #70
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Can the bottom sole plate be the bottom 2x of the curb, with the adjacent 2 more 2x's stacked on top butting against the newly added stud? The top is going to be a lot of work, but obviously better done right.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 01:28 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark
Can the bottom sole plate be the bottom 2x of the curb
Can see no reason not to do it that way, and doing so will add stability to the curb.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 01:42 PM   #72
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Laticrete drain arrived in the mail today, and oh man do I have some backtracking to do. Current drain placement of smack dab in the center of the shower is next to a joist and will not allow for the 4.5" required diameter for the drain. So the rewind about to happen is: CBU off the walls, subfloor up, waste line trimmed back 1.5".
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Unread 01-06-2021, 04:11 PM   #73
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Planning is everything in such construction, Mark.

Customers always thought I was joking when I'd tell'em I wanted to know before we poured concrete for the foundation what kind of shower enclosure they wanted in the master bath. I wasn't.
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Unread 01-07-2021, 11:21 AM   #74
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Posting the link to Sal's video where he adds strips to set the mortar bed height: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-fbqdoE9ec&t=1103s

I imagine a pro can make the exterior level in less time than tacking up the braces, but for a beginner this seems easier. I was thinking this but using upside down (square part up) molding: https://www.homedepot.com/p/TIM-623-...0960/204263863
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Unread 01-07-2021, 04:18 PM   #75
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Mark, this isn't quite rocket science... but it is good your planning ahead at the details... it is all in the details.
ITs good you planning on making the door hinge wall sturdy.
I used the Grohe handheld but it came with a real cheap plastic cover for the wall connection and just a regular SS el.
IT looks like that elbow on amazon is good but I went with a kohler that was solid brass chromed. IT was actually very important on how deep you mounted the 1/2 FNPT relative to the tile. I actually was amazed at how much planning it took for the mixer valves and side jet threads to insure that the common brass unions put the head in the right place so the escutcheon plate covered things. I'm glad your adding stud support for the seams in the CBU.. its just standard practice with flat sheet products.
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