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Unread 01-03-2021, 09:55 AM   #46
ss3964spd
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Would perhaps help to know which bits you intent to use, Mark.

But in general the likes coming out of the valve and going to the fixed and handheld heads are 1/2". The fixed head will have a "drop ear", which will have female threads, installed at the height you want, and the male threads of head arm will thread into that. The depth of the the face of the drop ear relative to the finished face of the tile isn't that crucial. The drop ear is most commonly installed by securely screwing it into a piece of horizontal framing installed between two studs through the mounting holes cast into the drop ear body.

Similarly, the outlet for the handheld will also use a drop ear, mounted where you wish, with female threads. But its depth is a little more crucial, and will be dictated by the manufacturer of the 90* elbow and the finishing cover you choose. When you select that wall outlet you will be able to look up the installation instructions wherein the depth of the drop ear will be specified.

You may want to give consideration on where you place the outlet for the handheld, most commonly to get the hose to hang nicely. That mean you won't want the outlet to be directly under the centerline of the slide rod that the handheld mounts to. Remember, too, that the plastic hoses suppled with many handhelds don't hang nicely, the upgraded metal coiled hoses do.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 10:07 AM   #47
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Water proofing wise, if you control the hole size you make in your wall board or tile you could simply caulk the gap. In my limited experience though, the outlet for the fixed head, being rather high on the wall, isn't going to see any water. I did not bother to caulk mine at all, but that's not to say you shouldn't.

The outlet for the handheld is likely to see more water. The decorative cover for the Grohe unit is used has a gasket around most of its perimeter (but open at the bottom) that effectively seals it to the face of the tile - depending on how smooth the tile face is. It would be beneficial to seal the nipple/elbow as best you can. Because it will be concealed by the decorative cover I'd opt to seal it at the tile face. Doesn't have to be pretty.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 01:11 PM   #48
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Thanks, Dan! The shower is the grohe system, which came with a polished 1/2" decorative pipe. The directions show threading in the tile. Not sure how to achieve that.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 01:16 PM   #49
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Getting walls square

I'm trying to use a template that I made of the shower to figure out how much each stud has to be extended to make the walls square. Seems like a decent idea, but many, many of my id as that seem good are very much not. Any feedback?
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Unread 01-03-2021, 01:45 PM   #50
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Mark, a lot of things such as your template would be considered overkill in professional circles because they take too much time to accomplish something that we might be able to do well enough using much simpler means combined with a good deal of experience. That does not mean it's not a good idea nor that you shouldn't make use of it and end up with a very good job of framing because of it.

If it's working for you and you end up with what you set out to do and you have time for it and you don't mind the extra effort, I say it's a good eye-dee.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 02:22 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark
...which came with a polished 1/2" decorative pipe
Did it come in a little felt bag? Mine did, the finish on that pipe was amazing.

While it may appear to, that drawing doesn't show the pipe threading into the tile, it shows it threading to the drop ell (elbow). In that drawing it appears the "face" of the drop ell is just about even with the face of the tile.

And it doesn't need to be. In fact, if you position the face of the DE even with the face of the tile the hole you'll have to drill in the tile will be larger than approximately 1" diameter hole you'd need for the pipe alone.

The 1/2" drop ells are available in different configurations. All will have a female outlet, but the inlets could be copper sweat, copper thread, PEX nipples, quick connect copper, ,etc. Google "90 (degree) drop ell", you'll see what I mean.

Do to the length of the length of the decorative shower head pipe the placement of the drop ell is very forgiving. The placement for the one serving the hand held needs to be more precise.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 02:52 PM   #52
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Thanks again, Dan. For the hand-held, do I connect a pipe to the DE and then connect the hand held to that? And if I do the pipe to the DE, should I solder it in place so it doesn't twist when futzing with the hand held? I'm also not super clear for water proofing on that/hiding the junction. If there is a connection line: DE->pipe->hand-held threaded on, the pipe is sticking out of the tile some, and I would want to cover the pipe-> hand-held junction with something attractive.

The shower came in the felt bag. It seems a shame to have any of it hidden behind tile, but if the shower DE is an inch behind the tile there is no way around it?

Thanks again, this seems straight forward but something isn't clicking.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 02:53 PM   #53
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Thanks, CX. The unfortunate thing with all of this is that the second time around all of this will go much faster, but that second time, and me staying sane, are exclusive.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 04:08 PM   #54
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Mark, the Grohe hand held "wall union" I used (link below) required the previously discussed drop ell, and a short threaded nipple. The wall union came with the 90* fitting that threads onto the nipple. The supply hose threads onto the 90* fitting, and the decorative cover hides it all.

The output of the wall union - the threaded part the the hose screws onto, is pretty standard amongst all the companies that make/sell the wall unions so you can use pretty much anyone's. The difference is where the drop ell needs to be and the length of the necessary nipple. The decorative covers allow for some flexibility of mounting depth, and some offer more flexibility than others.

Before the drop ell for the hand held is installed I recommend that you have your wall union selected, if not in-hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Grohe-2867200...38402207&psc=1
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Unread 01-03-2021, 04:17 PM   #55
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Forgot; for the fixed head pipe you can position the face of the drop ell to be flush with the face of the tile but I wouldn't bring it out any farther or the threads of the pipe might remain visible even after the escutcheon is installed.

Play it safe and set the face so that it is even with the face of the tile backer board you intend to use, but the only harm with having it deeper is that the shower head won't extend out from the wall as far.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 07:56 PM   #56
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Got it. I'd like to finish water proofing of the pan + two walls to test out the shower plumbing before sealing it off. Is there a problem of not doing it all in one go? Using laticrete sheet membrane.


Also, got the sheetrock up on the long side. The right corner doesn't have a stud, so about 5 inches of durock are unsupported. Should I take the board down an add support? It can flex about 1/8 in.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 09:25 PM   #57
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You might get by with it, but I wouldn't want 5" of unsupported CBU in that application, Mark. I'd wanna add framing there.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-03-2021, 11:23 PM   #58
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Thanks, CX -- Glad I held off on the flanking wall.
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Unread 01-04-2021, 01:04 AM   #59
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While I have the CBU down, there are spots that feel "soft", particularly at the horizontal junctions. Should these have horizontal braces placed between? The spacing of vertical studs is wonky, but not more than 16".
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Unread 01-04-2021, 09:01 AM   #60
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Adding horizontal framing certainly won't hurt, Mark, so long as it won't interfere with other bits inside the wall.
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