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Unread 12-04-2020, 12:53 AM   #46
jadnashua
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TO me, it looks like the sheet was damaged or possibly, defective from the factory. It should not have those cracks in it.
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Unread 12-29-2020, 12:47 PM   #47
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Anyone ever fill the chambers inside Schluter curbs with any kind of mortar? (Or fat mud?) Would this add strength or allow for more bonding surface in the bottom? Maybe it’s overkill or unnecessary but I cut the curb to length and the cut end no longer has an “end cap” because of the new length... it’s just the shell without the interior baffle at the end. Seems like that would compromise the strength of the thing. Anyone have thoughts?
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Unread 12-29-2020, 04:35 PM   #48
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Second question; I see numerous references to using modified thinset under Ditra, and I also see that Schluter curb instructions specify unmodified as an option for that, but no mention of whether a plywood subfloor needs to be primed before setting the curb. Any opinions on whether the subfloor should be primed and whether unmodified is ok for setting a Schluter curb?
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Unread 12-29-2020, 06:32 PM   #49
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Matt, I think anything you bond to plywood needs to be with modified thinset. I always use modified thinset under Ditra and over Ditra.
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Unread 01-05-2021, 08:49 AM   #50
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Welp, here’s my problem for today:

I poured a layer of Laticrete NXT to level the area prior to installing the Schluter pan. All went smoothly until, in the process of calling Laticrete to ask about another aspect of the project, I learned that I was supposed to put metal lath down before pouring the NXT. (Insert facepalm.)

I can’t find anything in the install instructions that mention lath, and frankly I’m pretty frustrated (and sheepishly annoyed with my self) that despite a lot of prep and research, I got this far but missed such a potentially critical detail. I see reference elsewhere to folks pouring leveling compounds without lath (even over plywood subfloor as in my project), so my question is whether y’all consider the lath to be 100% necessary or not? If I proceed, how likely is it to fail, and in what way?

Obviously if I need to rip it out and start over I will do so, but if the lath is not needed, I’d love to know that too and save myself the extra PITA.

I’m seeing conflicting info here on the forum and elsewhere about whether folks are using lath under SLC, so just want to know what my options are before I start tearing out the pour I just did.
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Unread 01-05-2021, 09:28 AM   #51
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Matt, the only opinion that really matters in that decision is that of the manufacturer. While there are SLCs that do not recommend lath for use with their product over wood subfloors, most do require the lath.

If you wanna use a SLC without lath, choose one whose manufacturer says it's not necessary (and I would worry), but if you choose one that does require lath, use lath.

If you wanna toss the dice with what you've currently got, that's entirely up to you.

And major raspberries to Laticrete for not including that requirement in their TDS for the product and only having it in the "nxt™ substrate preparation and primer guide tds 230n."

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-05-2021, 10:03 AM   #52
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OK, thanks, CX. I will remove my newbie SLC and install lath as specified. Kicking myself in the teeth for missing this important point in my prep research. I'm out the cost of the materials and a couple of days of lost labor, but better that than a total system failure. Live and learn!

Just got more info from Laticrete and they state, "After primer application, fasten expanded galvanized diamond metal lath over entire wood substrate using corrosion-resistant fasteners every 6” (15 cm) overlapping lath seams by 1” (2.5 cm)." I am assuming "fasteners" in this context means staples? How long do the staples need to be?

My local hardware store sells "27-in x 97-in Galvanized Steel Stucco Netting" and "12-in x 24-in Cold Rolled Steel Expanded Sheet Metal." Is either of these appropriate?
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Unread 01-05-2021, 11:25 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cx View Post

And major raspberries to Laticrete for not including that requirement in their TDS for the product and only having it in the "nxt substrate preparation and primer guide tds 230n."

.

I’m glad I’m not totally losing it. I guess I looked at the TDS and the info on the bag and didn’t see any mention of lath. I didn’t find the doc you linked until the rep sent it to me, in spite of some aggressive googling.
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Unread 01-05-2021, 12:21 PM   #54
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A very common problem, Matt, and very irritating to some of us. I could only locate that information because I knew the lath was required. A customer shouldn't hafta already know how to use the product to be able to read the manufacturer's published installation instructions.

Staples are the most common fastener used to attach metal lath. 3/8ths-inch length should work. I favor a slap-hammer for the installation.

No, those products are not what you want. You want 2.5 lb. galvanized expanded metal lath. You'll find it in the concrete products section of your home center. Comes in sheets of about 26" by 8 feet. Wear gloves when handling it, even in the store.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-05-2021, 05:14 PM   #55
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The plot thickens:

On the label for the SLC primer (Laticrete NXT Primer, the primer/water ratio is listed as 1:1 for plywood. On the other document CX linked, it’s listed as 5:1. This is starting to feel personal.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 10:02 AM   #56
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Update: just spoke to Laticrete again and the rep said that the 5:1 water/primer ratio listed on the TDS 230N that the other rep sent me “must be a typo,” and said it definitely should be 1:1 over plywood. Make what you will of the fact that it seems there are two versions of this document floating around on the interwebs.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 10:28 AM   #57
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And you would think that rep could have that error corrected with a single phone call to the company's Webmaster, too, but I'll be willing to wager even money that if you call up both those sources a month from now the error will still exist. We've reported many such errors to various companies over the years and I'm always amazed that the errors are not corrected almost immediately, but they most commonly are not.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 12:55 PM   #58
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Yeah, I emailed the website that has the incorrect data sheet posted, but I won’t hold my breath.
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Unread 01-08-2021, 09:56 AM   #59
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OK so the revised SLC install went well and I’ve got the pan set. Getting ready to do a flood test...

I’m wondering what type of thinset to use to set both the 2”x2” tiles for the shower floor and the 12”x24” tile for the walls (both porcelain as far as the shop was able to tell me). I’ve got Mapei Ultraflex 2 on hand, also some Kerabond and some Mapei Uncoupling Membrane mortar. Easy enough to pick up something else if neither of these are suitable. The floor has Kerdi on it, the walls are coated with Aquadefense. Any thoughts on best mortar, particularly for the large-format wall tile?
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Unread 01-11-2021, 10:06 AM   #60
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I checked in with both Mapei and Schluter. Glad I did, as I had forgotten that Schluter stipulates only unmodified mortar for laying tile over Kerdi, while Mapei recommends modified mortar that is designed for large format tile.

This raises an interesting question: if both products create a waterproof layer between the tile and the substrate and Schluter recommends unmodified mortar because it does not need contact with air to cure properly, why is the same not true when tiling over a liquid waterproofing membrane like Aquadefense? I’ll definitely follow the manufacturers recommendations here and use unmodified on the floor and modified on the walls, but I’m curious about the physics.
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