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Unread 11-23-2020, 02:42 PM   #61
HouseOfJoe
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Charlie, you're just looking for a light fixture rated for "wet locations". You'll also see "damp locations", and for your application that would probably be adequate, but I'd go with "wet" if I were you. As long as it has that rating, anything that fits will work.
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Unread 11-23-2020, 02:52 PM   #62
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There are recessed fixtures/trims that are wet rated, Charlie, I used 3 of them in my shower. You'll need the "can" part for above the ceiling. You can find old work/retrofit cans if you don't have access to install from above. If you do, and there's insulation up there, get an "IC" (insulation contact) new work can. I installed a total of 8 in my bathroom and glued them on right to the drywall with a polyurethane adhesive, which worked really well.

An example of the "new work" can's. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-H99...ICAT/202800218


Then there are the trim/lamp assemblies. I used 50W equivalent LED's, on a dimmer. If you don't want harsh light choose a 2700-3000 or so color temperature.

Example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerci...WH30/303146079

You might also want to check the electrical code for your area, as it might specify that any light in there might have to be on a GFCI circuit if it is a certain height above the shower floor.
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Unread 11-24-2020, 08:22 AM   #63
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Ahhhh ok thanks! There already is a can there, I think I just want to change the trim if possible as the can/light works fine. Just wonder if I can find trim for it.
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Unread 11-25-2020, 07:54 AM   #64
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So regarding the 7/8" mortar substrate under my tile that I need to rip up....I think a HD rental of a demolition hammer is in order. Am I on the right track? I want to avoid too much shaking and vibration on the floor as the kitchen is below. I think a demo hammer is my best bet.
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Unread 11-25-2020, 09:37 AM   #65
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Charlie, it's really dependent upon just what the mortar is and how it was installed. The only real way to know is to try removing a part of it and see what you're removing. You can adjust your method as needed.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-25-2020, 11:13 AM   #66
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It appears to be laid down on top of chicken wire which is right on top of the OSB subfloor.

Is there a chance I can chisel some of it off and just start prying that wire up and break up the bed on its own that way? Yeah maybe I'll wait until I've removed some tile and see what I'm dealing with.

All my materials and stuff are piling up in the garage. We're getting close!
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Unread 11-25-2020, 12:34 PM   #67
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Again, depending upon what the "mortar" might be, the fact that nothing was placed over the OSB to prevent it wicking moisture from the mortar, you might find a thin bottom layer of the mortar is very weak and easily removed. Or the OSB might have a coating that they installed to the top side and the mortar might be solid on the bottom. Still should be rather easy to remove. The method of attaching the poultry netting might make it difficult or, at least, tedious to remove.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-29-2020, 09:11 PM   #68
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So I was doing some additional reading and came across multiple recommendations of a 1 1/8” subfloor for laying tile. My plan is based around 1” subfloor with 1/8” ditra. Is that acceptable?

I was going to have 3/4” plywood on top of joists, then 1/4 plywood on top to build that up. Should I put 3/8” plywood on top of the 3/4” instead, then the 1/8 ditra?

I would then need to build up under my schluter shower pan an additional 1/8” to make it level.

I am laying 12x24 tile on this floor.
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Unread 12-04-2020, 02:18 PM   #69
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So I have settled on using a 3/4" T&G subfloor, with 3/8" plywood on top, then ditra. That would give me the similar build up I have now. I can reuse a lot of trim, saves me some time.

My question is what length of screws should I use to fasten the 3/8" plywood to the 3/4" plywood? I don't believe to help uncoupling, you won't want these screws getting into the joists far, if at all.

I don't have access to a nail gun unfortunately so I think I need to use screws.
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Unread 12-04-2020, 02:25 PM   #70
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Finding decent quality 3/8" ply might be a challenge, Charlie, the stuff doesn't like to lay flat. And regardless of nail gun availability I'd want to screw it down. If it isn't flat it would be a good idea to start in the center and work your way outwards.

1 1/2" or 1 5/8" construction screws will do the trick. With those, even if they do hit a joist, they won't have enough bite into it to matter at all.

Remember, no face grade lower than "C", and with an Exp 1 rating.

(Apologies, I intended to "edit" my post but inadvertently edited yours)
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Unread 12-04-2020, 03:09 PM   #71
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Let me frame the question to be a little more open ended then...

This info may be in different posts of mine but here's the summary:

Current build-up on top of joists is 1 7/8". So I am considering that the max build up I will do in the new bathroom. I would even be ok with only a 1 3/4" build up. My tile is 10mm, so just a hair over 3/8". Add mortar and you're pushing 5/8" for tile+mortar on 12x24 tiles.

My 1 1/8" schluter pan will be recessed down to the top of the joists. So the surrounding floor needs to be build up. 3/4" plywood and then 1/8" ditra mat actually leaves me with needing 1/4" that I need to build up. How can I best do that for a flat surface to tile on?

I think my options are limited to plywood or a backerboard. If I'd hard trouble finding flat 3/8" plywood I'd imagine 1/4" plywood would be wavy as all heck. HD does have 1/4" USG Fiberock underlayment. That might be the way to go. Then thinset on top and then ditra mat. That gets me to 1 3/4" build up. I am using the same tile for the bathroom floor and shower pan so I don't have to worry about difference there.
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Unread 12-04-2020, 03:26 PM   #72
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Did you account for the thinset under the Schluter pan? If you use 1/4" backer instead of 3/8" ply you'll need thinset under the backer. The tile for the shower floor is the same thickness, but is it the same size? If it's much smaller, like the often recommended 2x2's, you'll be using a much smaller notched trowel than you'll use for the 12X24's.
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Unread 12-04-2020, 04:16 PM   #73
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I am using the same 12x24 tile in the shower pan and the bathroom floor.

Did not account for the thinset under the schluter pan but if I do the 1/4" backerboard that would likely be the same thickness of thinset so cancels one another out. I would imagine that to not exceed 1/16".
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Unread 12-14-2020, 10:03 PM   #74
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What is the best/preferred method for capping copper water lines? I am removing a tub and I'll have to cap the drain and two water lines. Do I just cut the copper below the joist and sweat on a copper cap?
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Unread 12-15-2020, 07:45 AM   #75
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I'd probably want to cut those supply lines are far back towards their source as possible to lessen the amount of stagnant water they will otherwise hold.
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