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Unread 11-06-2020, 11:06 AM   #16
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Yeah, there's a difference, Dan. I wasn't aware of the problems with the polished porcelain before I started attending technical committee meetings years ago and the subject came up a couple times.

Seems the problem is that the polishing process actually opens up some relatively large pores in the surface of the porcelain and they catch and hold the particles from grout and bonding mortar and won't turn loose. I haven't attended such meetings for five years or so and maybe a solution has been found, but at the time it was the consensus that once the surface was stained with such products, it was absolutely and irreversibly stained.

Would be a hellofa downer on a large, expensive installation, eh?
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Unread 11-07-2020, 08:43 AM   #17
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I was thinking of "polished" only in terms of the visible finish of the surface, not the method by which that finish is achieved.

This from Wikipedia: The dense, hard surface of porcelain has made polishing a viable alternative to a glazed surface. This means that a tile can be fired, then a polish cut into the surface, creating a shine without a glaze.

In my search for the explanation above numerous other articles I read also pointed out the very same issues with polished porcelain as you did, cx. The short of it; I simply didn't know that there was such a thing as a porcelain tile mechanically polished to a high gloss.

In the context of Phil's grouting and scuffing issue it certainly seems possible to me that a polished porcelain might be more easily scratched than a glazed tile would. And given that there is no glaze, which effectively seals the face of the tile, a sealer would certainly help with the grouting process but I'd be surprised if it helped with the scratching/scuffing.

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Unread 11-07-2020, 08:52 AM   #18
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No one has learned more in 20 years on this site than I, Dan.
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Unread 11-08-2020, 04:27 PM   #19
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I thought I'd use the redgard on the concrete floor only 'cuz I purchased the big honkin' 3.5 gallon bucket of it. Thought I might get some use of it's crack prevention properties, but if it ain't needed, well...

The field tile is polished, not glazed.

Once again, I'm much obliged for everyone's help here, thanks!
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Unread 11-16-2020, 12:45 AM   #20
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Dry fit, porcelain planks.

Why the hell did I choose a herringbone pattern? Difficult as hell, but it sure is purty.
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Unread 11-16-2020, 08:48 AM   #21
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And now you gotta take all that out and do it again with bonding mortar? Que hombre!

Not at all sure why folks wanna tile the bathroom floor before the shower is completed, but I wouldn't do it with that layout and take a chance on damaging something.

I know of no reason not to use the RedGard on that floor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-22-2020, 03:07 PM   #22
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Well good God do I have a lotta respect for all of you who tile for a living. There's so many little things to keep track of, lots of movements to pick up / muscle memory to build, and wow is the workflow something I'm just not used-to.

Learning lots all along the way, and boy am I regretting the herringbone pattern. Had to stop partway through, but she's gettin' there.

cx, I was apprehensive about completing the floor before the shower, but I've got a rather strong penchant fer doing things the hard way. Really drills the learnin' into this thick skull o' mine. I'll hafta be extra careful protecting that floor once it's grouted. I'm thinking of taping down some plastic sheeting, then taping down some cardboard on top.

Anywhoo, here's where I'm at now:
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Unread 11-23-2020, 05:24 AM   #23
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Oof.
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Unread 12-30-2020, 05:15 PM   #24
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Grouted!
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Unread 12-30-2020, 05:25 PM   #25
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So let's see... Since finishing the floor, I've protected it, applied two layers of RedGard, and am currently working on the shower niche.
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Unread 12-30-2020, 05:28 PM   #26
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Today, I'm going to flush-up the niche, and then waterproof it.
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Unread 12-30-2020, 09:17 PM   #27
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Okay so I'm a liiiittle apprehensive about having done the niche first... I planned and measured everything out, but I'm still fearful about everything not lining-up.

Preferably, I'd like to do the whole back shower wall with the niche in one go. I learned from doing the floor that a leveling system won't really do much once things have set...

Anywhoo, here's where I'm at. More waterproofing is next.

Then, I'll place my ledger boards, and begin tiling the walls.

Anybody have any suggestions?
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Unread 12-30-2020, 09:22 PM   #28
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You don't intend to tape and fill those joints in the CBU before applying your waterproofing?
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Unread 12-30-2020, 09:43 PM   #29
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Cx, I'm unsure as to whether or not I should.

From what I've seen from Mr. Sal Diblasi, and from what I've read from Mr. Roger (the floor elf), neither of the two taped and mudded their niche joints; only waterproofed them, with waterproofing fabric.

Is this something I need to be aware-of?
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Unread 01-01-2021, 07:47 PM   #30
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Okay so I realized I failed to put some hardibacker on the back face of the niche! (I'm using hardibacker for the niche instead of durock, cuz it's quite a bit easier to cut, as well as being thinner at only 1/4" thick)

Then, I taped and mudded. Once that dries, I'll go over it with membrane fabric + redgard.

cx, thanks for catching my ass about to skip taping!
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Last edited by Aztec; 01-01-2021 at 07:49 PM. Reason: Forgot a letter
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