Kids Bathroom Renovation

[cx]

Sometimes it just takes a combination of approaches to get that furring to be plumb and in plane, Dan. Making strips that fit the wall by forming or shimming might be the better approach, but sometimes you'll wanna grind a bit on the wall, too. Not too difficult to take off high spots in narrow strips to fit the furring strips.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[jadnashua]

If you were to put up Kerdiboard, and the block is unpainted, you'd spot bond it to the existing blocks while making the waterproofing layer perfectly plumb in one step. https://youtu.be/7O6bNoS6NW0

[arnav]

Found various options for furring strips in dimensions that are wider than what's required for a furring strip. Who knew 5/4" was a thing?
Premium PT ground contact decking boards seems to be of much higher quality than what's sold as mere furring strips.
Do you see a reason why not to rip a 5/4" x 6" (nominal) down the middle to get ~3"?
Unless it better to just leave it wide like that?
I even found unicorn / actual KDAT 4x4 posts I am tempted to rip into furring strips...

[cx]

Five-quarter wood has been "a thing" for a long, long time, Dan.

No reason not to rip those 5/4x6 boards to make you furring strips if that'll work for you.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[arnav]

I can imagine! I just never came across it before. Maybe since I never had to build a deck. Darn nominal dimensions.

[arnav]

So picked up some 2 x 2 (1.25 x 1.25 actual) PT furring strips from HD which may work just fine size wise and not push the tub too close to the toilet. Will definitely be an improvement over the current flimsy 1 x 2 furring strips.

Remember the moisture "science test" we spoke about earlier in the thread?
So leaving the store they measured 53%. lets see how long it takes them to get below 18, 19%...

Picked up a ramset gun as well and galvanized nails for it, so can't wait to shoot something...

I checked with ITW that this specific tool will work for my application and they recommended the load to start with and to just shoot into the horizontal mortar joints as oppose to the actual blocks (which the instructions mentioned as well).

[cx]

Originally Posted by Dan

lets see how long it takes them to get below 18, 19%...

Mmmm, how old are you now, Dan?

Those ramset tools don't work very well in the hollow portions of concrete blocks. Tend to blow out the back of the contact area. Good that they told you to shoot into the mortar joints. That might work if the mortar is not too soft and the fasteners are of sufficient length.

I'd recommend you also use some construction adhesive behind those strips.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[ss3964spd]

Originally Posted by cx

I'd recommend you also use some construction adhesive behind those strips.

Lots of it.

You might find that you need to pre-drill holes in those 2X2's, especially near the tops and bottoms.

[cx]

I'd still vote for ripping down the 1x6s. Actually, I'd really prefer rips of plywod, but........

My opinion; worth price charged.

[arnav]

Experimented with the Ramset today. Nothing like the fresh smell of gun powder in the morning
Works exceedingly well. I can't believe i didn't get it for past projects.
I started with the brown load and these did require multiple shots to drive the nails all the way in in some cases. I'll go up to the green loads next which the Mfr. said is ok.
It was extremely hard to remove the test strips off the wall. In fact, the wood broke off and the nails are still in there. I may just grind them off.

Originally Posted by ss3964spd

You might find that you need to pre-drill holes in those 2X2's,

Ha! didn't see your post until I came here to post. Yes, had to do exactly that. With a pilot hole it worked just fine.

Originally Posted by CX

I'd still vote for ripping down the 1x6s

Yes, I also did that today and tested them with the ramset as well. They also needed a pilot hole. They are "premium" decking boards (HD link) with a lifetime warranty so higher quality than the 2x2s (so I am aiming to use those).

Originally Posted by CX

Actually, I'd really prefer rips of plywod, but....

Out of curiosity, why? That is really interesting. HD actually carries true KDAT plywood in each store down here in both 1/2" and 3/4". I kid you not (HD link).
Should I just go with those then? Unfortunately they don't carry them in 8' lengths (just 4' "project panels") so I would need to use two separate pieces per furring strip. Do you like that better? I'll be able to kick the project off right away without having to wait for anything to dry. If so, what width strips to rip? 3 or 4 inches sort of a thing?

[cx]

I like plywood rips for that sort of application just because it doesn't split out when fastening it or fastening to it, Dan. If what you've got is working, no reason not to use it.

Gotta admit I've never even heard of KDAT plywood.

[arnav]

no no. Thank you. I like having more options and this is a great option that requires no drying wait time. There is one more bathroom to renovate so whatever PT i don't use now, I'll use later.

Do you see an issue in using two pieces per furring strip?

maybe it will just make it harder to ensure a flat and plumb strip, but I guess you can shim, shave, and grind as necessary.

I'll pick some up tonight and see what they look like.

The website shows 4 ft. x 8 ft. Fire-Rated KDAT as well but not sure where it is in stock: https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-8-in-x...8275/206185968
I don't remember ever seeing a red ply like that there before. The stock levels on the website especially on things like lumber is usually very off.

Thanks for all the help

[cx]

I have also never heard of fire-rated plywood. Guess I've just led a sheltered life all these years.

[arnav]

I picked up the ply. Here is a pic of the certification stamp since i know you are interested in these sort of things. Some of the pieces are still wet at 28% but maybe it is from equalizing with the 100% humidly in FL....

[ss3964spd]

Is a challenge to find 2X2's that are straight, or remain straight. Especially PT 2X2's.

I'd rather use 8 footers instead of two 4 footers. If necessary you can also pick up some composite shims to help with low spots.

Another option instead of PT? Hang poly sheeting over the block, then install the furring strips. Rip strips from regular 3/4" ply, or a combination of different thicknesses of ply to get the depth you need. Once the strips are up remove or leave the poly between depending on what wall board you're hanging.

How are you going to handle the washers and nail heads being proud of the surface of the strips?