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01-01-2021, 01:15 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 5
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Shower pan install drain stubout too high
Hello everyone happy new year!
I am trying to install a kerdi presloped pan and a linear drain. I am attaching pictures to show the height of the floor is lower than the top of the drain pipe. My thinking is either raise the floor with a dry pack mortar bed or bust the concrete around the fitting and cut it out and replace it. I was just wanting some advice on what others thought about this. Thank you!
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William
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01-01-2021, 01:18 PM
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#2
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 22,339
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Welcome to the forum, William!
Those are exactly the two choices I’d consider. Which of them gives you the best results for you effort? For me, I’d prefer to lower the sanitary tee to keep my pan height as low as possible. But I’d dig in the dirt to give myself clues to how hard busting the cement out would be. If it’s extensive, I’d abandon than in favor of raising the pan.
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01-01-2021, 10:29 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 11,735
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The Kerdi Drain H can help you save some height if you end up not moving the drain lower. I've used it a couple of times with success.
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Kevin
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
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01-03-2021, 09:36 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 5
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Thanks for the help! I have read upon the kerdi H and the Compensation Board which would work well but we have already purchase the shower pan and linear drain. I was wondering if the compensation board would work in a linear drain situation as well?
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William
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01-03-2021, 11:59 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 11,735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry
I was wondering if the compensation board would work in a linear drain situation as well?
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I'm afraid I don't know what a compensation board is, William. Maybe someone else does, or you could post a link to what you have.
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Kevin
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
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01-04-2021, 12:12 AM
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#6
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 91,800
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I'd never heard of it either, Kevin, but it appears to be just a thick piece foam to put under the foam shower tray so's you could, I suppose, install that H-drain right on top of your floor.
Fifteen dollar chunk of foam for only about a hunnert bucks! What's not to love?
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01-04-2021, 09:34 AM
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#7
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 11,735
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Plywood, as expensive as it is, would be cheaper. You could probably even get away with the cheap stuff for that application.
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Kevin
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
1.
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01-04-2021, 06:09 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 5
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Yes I priced that compensation board for 83/sheet but it only works with the H style drain. I have a 33 1/2" linear drain so I am thinking instead of packing it with dry mortar I am going to take 2x4 rip them and then put down a piece of advantek sub floor over it to give me the height I need. It would be so much easier I believe.
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William
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01-06-2021, 09:07 PM
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#9
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Moderator -- Wisconsin Kitchen & Bath Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oak Creek, WI
Posts: 22,339
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Simple is good. Sounds like a plan, William.
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01-14-2021, 07:12 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 5
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Tiling the inside of a curbed shower
Hey everyone,
I am wondering if there is a thread or if you have videos or photos explaining how to tile the inside of the curbed shower. I have a Schluter sloped shower pan it is on a 2% slope. Size of the pan is 55"x55". The curb is the 4.5" wide by 60" long by 6" tall. This shower has a linear drain in it against the left wall if that can give kind of a mental image of what I am doing. How do I go about tiling where the curb inside the shower, where the curb meets the shower pan top. I have search for videos but I can't seem to find them. I am guessing the tile will have to be cut at 2% slope or whatever the angle between where the two meet is. Does this sound crazy or is there a better way?
Thank you!!!!!
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William
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01-14-2021, 09:12 AM
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#11
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 91,800
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William, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.
Not sure I understand the question, but if I do.... Ceramic tile installations will always have a gap of a minimum of 1/16th" between tiles. That gap will be filled with grout. A beveled cut of 2 percent would not be noticed at all in such an application. While there are time when a beveled cut is desirable, but in an application such as a wall to floor joint, a square cut is all you need or want.
Setting tile is not the same as installing stain-grade wood trim.
My opinion; worth price charged.
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01-14-2021, 12:54 PM
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#12
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 11,735
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Yes, cut them at an angle to fit the slope of the floor.
__________________
Kevin
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
1.
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01-14-2021, 01:23 PM
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#13
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 91,800
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Mmmm. I figgered he was axing about a bevel rather than cutting the tiles at an angle to follow the slope, Kevin. I figgered that was a given. Maybe not?
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01-14-2021, 01:58 PM
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#14
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Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 32,996
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Since his linear drain is on the left, the slight step down just inside the curb area (vertical tiles) will be larger on the left. William, is this what you're talking about?
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01-14-2021, 05:43 PM
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#15
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 11,735
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I think he's talking about cutting the tile on the inside of the curb to fit the slope of the floor, as it drops going right to left.
__________________
Kevin
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
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