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Unread 12-15-2020, 08:55 PM   #1
jgrendz
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Bathroom Tile Layout with Curbless Shower & Kerdi Linear Drain

Looking for tile layout pro advice.
(Just bought and still reading the Bridge Kerdi Shower and the other books.)

Using 12x24 tile and want a curbless shower and Kerdi Linear Drain.
Think I want the tile layout to flow into the shower.
Checked tile sample actual dims and they are indeed not 12x24 but 11 3/4 x 23 5/8. Tile manufacturer recommends 1/8" grout size.
Using Ditra-Heat outside of shower.
Please see the images with two layouts. The tile is in magenta.

My sticking points:
1. Any problems with the curbless high point? Think TCNA Handbook says high point must go outside the shower (door). (Also hoping for two-way swing door.)
2. I want to offset the Kerdi linear drain away from the wall a bit to keep a full tile in front of it. Any issues with placing tile behind it?
3. Edge tiles are a little too small for first layout?
4. Should I move the forced air heat register (in front of wc) to closer to wc?
5. Using Kerdi board on shower walls. Is it best to run it well outside the shower so the drywall tape joint is well outside the tile? Is Kerdi board similar to drywall with regard to painted wall texture?
6. I assume the tile dims are fairly repeatable between lots so my layout will be good when the actual tile shows up. I'm cutting it kinda close in a couple spots.

Any other advice would be great!
John G
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Unread 12-15-2020, 11:08 PM   #2
Kman
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Welcome to the forum, John.

When you have several questions in one post, it helps to number them. They're easier to keep in order that way.

I don't see anything that jumps out at me.

One minor thing that I would check if I were you:
I'd do a dry layout of the tile across the room since you're only planning to cut 1/2" off each end. Make sure that what you have planned will be a reality. If it didn't cause layout issues somewhere else, I'd probably just start with a full tile and work my way out. 1" off the end of a tile won't be noticeable.

Quote:
Edge tiles are a little too small for first layout?
Not sure what you're asking there.

Typically the tile runs just outside the shower, and you would have a Kerdiboard/drywall seam there. The tile would cover the seam.

And regarding dye lots, just check your tile when it comes in, and draw from several boxes while setting them, as opposed to just pulling from one box. That'll give you a good layout.
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Unread 12-16-2020, 09:42 AM   #3
jgrendz
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Thanks Kevin!

Will do on the numbering, and on the dry layout.

The "edge tiles" question is me obsessing over the guidance that layouts should have at least a half tile at edges (no "skinnies").

Really appreciate this forum and folks like you offering their time - this advice un-freezes me and gives confidence to keep the project moving.

John
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Unread 12-16-2020, 09:56 AM   #4
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Welcome, John,

The out-swing door will be problematic I think. The bottom edge of the door will, necessarily, have to be very close to the floor in order to contain any splashing and will therefore probably not clear any bath mat on the floor just outside of the opening. An in-swing door might also be an issue; if you are building this to code, code might specify that an in-swing door isn't allowed. Best to check on that. In any case, I'd probably opt to hinge the door on the wall instead of how you show it.

Ergonomically speaking, were do you envision placing the shower control valve? You really don't want to receive a blast of cold water when turning it on.
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Unread 12-17-2020, 10:35 AM   #5
jgrendz
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Dan,

Thank you, and glad I found this forum. Didn't think about a bath mat, but agree it's something to consider - and it prompted more planning...

Our glass guy said his door swings both ways, so I figured it's covered either way - it meets code and we can open-in if we want a mat. (I checked with the boss about putting in a short ~3/4" curb, and she kinda feels "go big or go home" on the curbless - says we'll open-in.)

Then I drew out the bath fixtures and see that if the door opens-in, I have to miss the rain shower head - not a problem since the drop ear isn't plumbed yet, but now I know it must be coordinated .

Agree on the control valve - have it off-center to be able to crack open the door and turn it on.

Seems this leaves us deciding where to hinge the door with the trade-off between easy valve reach vs getting in without splashing water outside.

I also realized that the heat register is a big hole in this otherwise water-proof floor (except maybe the wc). And close to the shower! Considering running it to a wall register.
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Unread 12-17-2020, 11:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgrendz
I also realized that the heat register is a big hole in this otherwise water-proof floor (except maybe the wc). And close to the shower! Considering running it to a wall register.
John,
I did the same move as seen here and love the way it came out. The vent is from ventcoversunlimted.com. I used the j-bead frame style that is installed after the drywall but mudded and taped to the drywall to be flush. They have a new style they just came out with that is installed before the drywall. I think I still prefer the j-bead vent as I was able to feather out with joint compound and make it totally seamless. Either one is doable. The construction of the vents/registers they make is fantastic!
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Unread 01-11-2021, 09:13 PM   #7
jgrendz
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BigPhil,
Thanks for the lead. Love the clean install you achieved. I'll likely be getting a register from that site.
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Unread 01-11-2021, 11:44 PM   #8
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I know this really doesn't solve the vent issue, but if I wanted to keep it in the floor, I'd move it, or maybe just rotate it toward the wall, and get one of these Chameleon Registers. You install it and cut the tile to fit in the register. I've always wanted to install one, but never ran across a job with floor vents that the homeowner wanted to spring for them.

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Unread 01-12-2021, 09:52 AM   #9
speed51133
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Ugh, wish I had seen this earlier. I already set the floor. Would have totally done the chameleon.
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Unread 01-12-2021, 10:16 AM   #10
diddly
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shower

This is probably moot since its installed But. I did this type of shower with same size tile and customer using with good drainage. They called me about two years later and asked if there was a way to eliminate the sliding they experience on egress after a shower . as soon as asked I realized these large tiles are not the way to go; too much polished surface area and not enough grout joints to act as foot grip They have installed grab bars to steady them and hopefully they will be fine but I will insist in future showers that a smaller more functional tile be used. Looks nice in books and showrooms but may be too susceptible to accidents. any thoughts on this?

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Unread 01-12-2021, 02:20 PM   #11
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I agree. One thing that helps is NOT to go with polished tiles on the floor for large format. A matte or honed finish offers more slip resistance, just a little.

Floor matts help but I worry about my parents taking a spill when stepping over the curb to get out of the shower. If you don't have a matt there or don't dry your sole off, it's like an ice rink.
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Unread 01-13-2021, 08:26 AM   #12
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I've built a speed bump in several showers across the doorway. Best I remember, the one below is 5/8-3/4. That way the door will open over a mat.
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