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Unread 12-28-2020, 06:17 PM   #1
KCharlie
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Joining drywall to kerdi-board

I'm replacing a 60"x32" tub to a 60"x36" shower with a pre-fab acrylic pan and tiled walls up to the ceiling. I will be using kerdi-board.

I've been planning this out and I have two major questions.

1) How far past the shower boundary should I extend the kerdi-board? I don't know what tile I'll use yet, but I figure I want it to go around the edge of the acrylic shower base. Is 2" enough? I'll probably use Schluter Rondec edging instead of bullnose tile to make my life easier. Should I know exactly what tile I will be using first, then plan on the outer tiles overlapping both the kerdi-board and drywall? Any guidance?
I prefer to minimize drywall work, but I can learn how to do it if I need to.

2) The drywall on both sides was shimmed out to go around the lip of the bathtub walls. One side is about 1/8" between the studs/drywall while the other is nearly 1/4". Should I shim out the studs on those sides the same amount before attaching the 0.5" kerdi-board? How flush should the surfaces be? The drywall is textured so its total thickness is probably more than 0.5".
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Unread 12-28-2020, 07:42 PM   #2
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Welcome, Jerry.

Without seeing your shower receptor it's difficult to say just where you could/should position your wallboard in relation to the receptor's tiling flange. Optimally, I like to see the wallboard lap over the tiling flange on the drain side, but with direct bonded waterproofing membranes on foam boards it's acceptable to have the face of the wallboard flush with the face of the flange and use compatible membrane to seal over the gap between the two.

As to how far beyond the front of the tub or receptor you should waterproof, I like to see the waterproofing extend at least 3 inches beyond and down to the floor. Your tile can extend farther if you like.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-28-2020, 08:07 PM   #3
KCharlie
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The shower base does not have flanges on the sides, only the top; I'm unable to post a link yet. You can google it with "dreamline slimline 36 x 60".
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Unread 12-29-2020, 01:31 AM   #4
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What are you using at the opening, a curtain or a door?
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Unread 12-30-2020, 06:09 PM   #5
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A hung "frameless" sliding door (barndoor-style).
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Unread 01-06-2021, 02:17 AM   #6
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I'm still really struggling with the drywall transition in the 3rd photo. I don't have a lot of room to run the kerdi-board past the 36" wide shower receptor and blend it in with the drywall.

What do you guys suggest with this one? Should I just remove that entire strip of drywall (including the metal corner bead), then replace it?

Otherwise I'd have to sand down the texture of the drywall and just have a small bit of kerdi band overlap?

I see a lot of similar shower alcoves like this where there's only 1"-2" of wall before a transition, but everything I've seen is transitioning to unfinished drywall, not drywall that already has a thick textured coat on it.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 08:04 AM   #7
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I would go to the door on one side and your 38" line on the other. You can blend it in fine. Keep the corner bead so the next wall stays out of the cam of worms.
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Unread 01-06-2021, 07:04 PM   #8
KCharlie
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Are you saying put the kerdi/drywall transition at the 38" mark, the slightly tile past it, say about 1" (leaving 1" before the corner)? I will probably do the left (door) side even there's more space, just for consistency.

Before going further, I should probably make sure that using a 36" wide shower base is okay in the first place? A 32" or 34" width won't get me so close to the corner... but I'll still have most of the transition issues.
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Unread 01-07-2021, 06:38 AM   #9
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I think 1" is to close to save the metal. But really don't over concern yourself with the Joint. You can actually scrape that one side of the metal trim and even pull the nails out and then slip the kerdi board under. Going all the way to the door means you only need to blend the seam above the door. If your texture is really thick You will want to sand it down for a couple inches so the tape can be lower. If you haven't done mudding I suggest you find a skilled artist. They can do small jobs like this in a few hours with hot mud and less than $ you think. Many workers take side jobs. Around your new beautiful shower really isn't a good place to learn how much practice this skill requires.
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Unread 01-10-2021, 11:27 PM   #10
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Start tiling at niche to avoid U-shaped notch?

I'm trying to figure out the best way to tile around a 12" tall x 20" wide niche on a shower wall with 12"x24" tile. This a standard 60" x 32" shower alcove, with kerdi-board panels and kerdi-board niche.

With tiles bigger than the niche, there's a risk I'll have to cut a U-shaped tile to go around it. I want to avoid this because I don't have access to a "drop saw" style tile saw, only a "table saw" style, plus that's only 2" on each side of the niche. It also seems like a pain to cut.

Should I:

1) Use a laser level and start tiling at the niche so it's right in the middle of a row of tile (both 12" high).

2) Start tiling from the bottom, but wait to cut/install the niche until I'm one row away from it (I have freedom to move it up and down).

3) Change the tile layout. I was going to alternating rows of 18"-24"-18" / 6"-24"-24"-6" widths (a 1/2 overlap looks best for this space). Instead, I could alternate rows of 12"-24"-24" / 24"-24"-12", which only requires corner cuts in the tiles to go around the niche.

4) Make a jig to cut the tile on the table-saw style saw... (lower the tile on to the blade somehow?)

5) Spend another $150 to rent a drop-saw style tile saw.
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Unread 01-11-2021, 05:13 AM   #11
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Jerry, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread, so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and the history is in one place.

Without actually seeing what you have, it's difficult to say for sure, but generally speaking #2 is the best option.

Are you planning to picture-frame the niche with bullnose tile? That could solve your problem as well.
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