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Unread 04-25-2016, 05:35 PM   #16
Tool Guy - Kg
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I rarely break a tub these days because of the flying shards of porcelain. Take heed and definitely use an old blanket on the tub, and everything needed to protect all your skin and eyes. A small shard is more than enough to make you get stitches. In addition to all the heavy long sleeves and pants and gloves safety glasses, etc...I use a face shield, as well.

Even a 10 pound sledge will do the deal. Due to the shape of the tub, it's stronger and resists blows from the outside better than from the inside. Think of an egg. It's difficult to break an egg in the long direction simply squeezing between your thumb and first two fingers, but a little chicken can peck his way out from the inside using considerably less force.

Strike the inside of the tub with an outward direction. Pick one end of the bowl and repeatedly hit in same spot until it breaks. Have patience. Once you break off a piece, the integrity of the structure is weakened and the remaining breaks are relatively easy compared to the first.

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Unread 04-25-2016, 06:40 PM   #17
Eschbach
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Cover with a blanket as stated and hit it with a sledge.Hold on tight and hit it!A couple well placed hits and it is able to be carried.
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Unread 04-25-2016, 06:47 PM   #18
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Here's how to attribute quotes.

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Unread 04-28-2016, 01:02 AM   #19
freckles
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partial bathroom remodel? new mud shower only?

I got an extra month to ponder (obsess) over the two upcoming projects. once i start, i will have only one month to finish both projects but will have 3.5 full days per week to devote to them.

I've been reading and reading till my eyes and now considering removing the flange-less cast iron tub(made a separate post re removing huge/heavy tub) and build a waterproof mud pan shower instead.

Most of the projects on this site seem to be total gut jobs. but i love my bathroom's imperfect funky vintage state (weird that way) and just want to waterproof the wet areas and am on a limited time frame/budget.

1) May/will the process of breaking up the huge/deep cast iron tub possibly cause more problems? ie- break original plaster walls and ceiling, original mud floors with tiles to make a really really unwanted total gut remodel? if so, will go back to original plan- keep tub + add on flange and fingers crossed.

2) I plan to cover the toilet and sink from flying porcelain shrapnel but can't really protect the walls and floor from all the banging needed to break up the tub, right? same question really, really sorry, asked twice.

3) I've been watching dry pack shower installations on you tube. is sal diblasi's technique and execution of building a shower correct? I appreciate how he explains and shows his process and find his explanations really helpful. I hope so because i've been taking notes and hopefully haven't absorbed bad advice? any other youtube'ers to recommend?

4) If I go the new shower route, it will be laticrete bonded membrane mud pack with kerdi drain and goboard or propanel on walls.

5) how realistic for a 105 lb woman to break a tub? I can lift 40-50 pounds but searching online, only found 3 women who've tackled and documented it in any way. if its helpful, i do have anger issues i can tap into

thanks
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Unread 04-28-2016, 01:33 AM   #20
cx
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Sam, I've combined your CI tub thread here for continuity. Thought maybe that was gonna be a separation point between your two projects, but now looks like it's all still gonna be run together and we'll need all the history in one place.

1. The secret to breaking up those CI tubs is getting that first crack. After that it gets easier. Someone your size with a six-pound hammer could do it if you approach it aggressively. An eight pounder would be better if you can handle it. This is a situation where you might really wanna bring home one of your larger male friends, get a bigger hammer, and transfer some of your anger issues to him just briefly. But give it a go first.

2. Shouldn't need much protection for anything in there 'cept for yourownself or the large friend with the hammer.

3,4. You need to be careful talking about a "mud shower" and using some sort of fancy wallboard to build the shower. Making a deck mud floor does not a mud shower make. I've never seen Sal's videos, but from his participation here on the forums I'd expect them to be useful.

5. See #1. I'm not a big guy at all and I've broken a few. You must not be at all tentative. You gotta display serious intent. Cast Iron tubs can sense fear and you must not show it any!

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-28-2016, 11:27 AM   #21
freckles
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will my floors be ok?

Morning!

my bedtime reading is this site, my morning coffee reading is this site, lunch time... if only i had this much learning gusto in college, ack. plus the moderators and contributors are so terrific to share their know how- thank you all!

I will pretend to be a baby chick and strike from the inside in an outward direction, buy a larger sledge hammer, channel mama bear fierceness when in presence of bathtub, size up my larger male friends- back issues, free time, favorite foods.

1) But does anyone know how likely it would be that during the demo of the bathtub, i or hunky dude may end up cracking or damaging the integrity of the floor-breaking tile mortar bed?

I ask again because of the time deadline and more because I picked this place to live because it was mostly original/intact- patina'ed fer shur and would like to keep it that way.

thank you!
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Unread 05-05-2016, 02:42 PM   #22
freckles
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question about splash area- pic included

i've attached a somewhat to scale drawing birdseye view of the bathroom and photo tub/door area.

currently, there is a long deep tub and its 29" width includes the interior wood doorway molding. there is evidence of some water damage where molding meets tub or molding meets tile build out- paint peeling. the vertical portion seems in good shape.

a shower curtain is used but the door molding is within the splash zone.

there is about 3/8" gap between the door swing and tub.

splash zone- waterproofing area should extend at least 2" outside wet area but i do not have that option on the far side.

if the tub is removed and replaced with a shower- how to best remedy the rear splash zone?

1) remove wood door molding, extend foam backerboard and tile over?

2) keep wood molding as is, tile up to molding, attach a curved shower rod to bring curtain back so that it's a few inches away from the molding?

Narrow shower curb creation?

the shower width is fairly narrow and would like to keep the curb a thin as possible. shower base will be mud deck single layer with bonded waterproof membrane and foam tile backerboard.

3) how narrow can the curb be and still be strong and stable? shower curtain- no glass.

3) curb of cut plywood stacked? foam backerboard over.

4) curb of cut foam backerboard stacked?
Attached Images
  
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Unread 05-12-2016, 03:00 PM   #23
freckles
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quickcrete deck mud vs pre-mix products dry pack

if anyone would like comment on the previous post... i'd be thankful plus I have more

I am making a list of supplies to buy and was checking out one of the vendors listed on this site- stone tooling.

1) DRY PACK- ST sells a brand called pre-mix products dry pack. I looked at the data sheet and it comes in 3:1 and 4:1. I would have to buy additional sand to make 5:1

HD sells quickrete deck mud- their data sheets is 5:1. but the one review did not like the product.

any experience with either?

USG durock shower membrane and their drain- sticking to one system( for the shower floor). changed from kerdi to laticrete now to durock- gawd i'm so indecisive.

2) HAIR CATCHER- are there any universal hair catchers for shower drains? researching- Kerdi discontinued, Laticrete- none, usg- none. I've always used a hair catcher, one that drops in or is flush with the tub drain but don't see any effective looking hair catcher for shower drains.

will the ebbe e4400 work?
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Unread 05-17-2016, 08:41 PM   #24
freckles
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BUMP + a quick frankengueuze question?

shower base: usg durock shower membrane over mud

shower wall: jm goboard foam backerboard, polyurethane caulking between all seams and fastener sites.

drain- usg

narrow curb- stacked thinseted/screwed pieces of goboard

curved shower rod, no glass

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Frankenqueuze question:

Was planning on using a liquid waterproofing for the seams, corners, seams etc with mesh BUT I will have a lot of usg membrane left over.

Has anyone used waterproofing liquid to adhere the waterproof membrane? The liquid should make the membrane stick, no?

Its redundant but since I will have a bunch of membrane left, I figure its a way to use it up?

is there a downside, besides no warranty? I just care that its waterproof.



p.s. re lifting or breaking up my vintage tub- i placed an ad and got a lot of responses from people who want to take it home!
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Last edited by freckles; 05-17-2016 at 08:43 PM. Reason: too many words
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Unread 05-17-2016, 10:38 PM   #25
dhagin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam
Has anyone used waterproofing liquid to adhere the waterproof membrane?
No, nor would i. Use one or the other, as indicated in their install instructions. Sell or save the unused bits for next project.
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Unread 05-22-2016, 02:48 PM   #26
freckles
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finpan ProPanel vs jm Goboard?

thank you, i will save the rest of the membrane for later use. for a couple of small projects i have to accept there'll be waste

Choosing between two of the lower end foam tile backerboards- Propanel or Goboard.

Propanel- 35 year warranty,
"high-density expanded polystyrene reinforced on both sides with fiberglass mesh and a polymer cement coating",
requires modified thinset,
washer and screws/nails
super light weight- 2 lbs- seems bendy???

Goboard- 1 year warranty,
"exterior faces are comprised of proprietary coated fiber glass mats that provide excellent bonding and stiffness. The core is
made from high density polyisocyanurate (“polyiso”) closed-cell foam, providing strength, durability and waterproofness",
takes modified and unmodified thinset,
no washers needed
lightweight- about 8 lbs- lot stiffer than Propanel.

Neither seem to be used as much as kerdi/wedi- a search brought up several posts. Both are available locally and similarly priced. Installation is nearly the same.

The main difference is the warranty and stiffness of the boards.

Though I'm not depending on the warranty per se, the warranty difference is huge! 35:1

Propanel- bendy, Goboard- stiff

35 years but bendy or 1 year but stiff???? sounds like set up for a relationship joke but i'm resisting

thoughts between the two?
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Unread 05-22-2016, 03:28 PM   #27
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Sam, I think whichever product that you choose it would be a good idea to add blocking at the seams of the panels. The blocking would be 2x4's in between the studs on the wall.

Also, after seeing your tub in post 22 I don't think it will be as bad to break out as other tubs. If you remove the front tile section first there should be plenty of vulnerable spots to hit with a sledge. Maybe watch some Hillary and Trump videos before hand to get yourself in the proper mood.
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Unread 05-22-2016, 04:16 PM   #28
freckles
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tubs gonna get a new home!

jim, thank you for your advice!

luckily *fingers crossed* i have a person lined up who wants to take the tub out in one piece! from his email name i gather he is a tub refinisher. sooo happy i wont have to destroy the old sweet thing.
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Unread 05-26-2016, 03:43 PM   #29
freckles
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matte vs high sheen shower floor tiles for durability and slippees

Hi, I did a search but didn't see anything specific and wasn't sure if this question should be lumped together with the ongoing project thread I have

Walk in shower floor tiles- hexagonal or penny tiles porcelain mosaic 2x2 or 1x1

hd has a few offerings by merola, cof>.60, pei lV for matte, cof>.50, pei ll for glossy

Floor and Decor has a few hexagonal tiles but there is NO rating for the black and white hexagonal tiles I'm interested in.

1) What is recommended for shower floors in respect to durability and no/less slippeeeeeness?

I'm sticking with small, glazed porcelain tiles.

2) high sheen vs low sheen? any difference being durable and avoiding the slipeeeeness?

3) pei rating- ll, lll, lV make any difference for a shower floor? will lll and lV just be harder to cut?

Re Floor and Decor, so long as I stick with tiles NOT made in China, tiles should be ok? USA, Italy, Brazil?

F&D has a beautiful gray porcelain hexagonal mosaic but nearly all the loose sheets had tiles that were already chipped
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Unread 05-26-2016, 04:49 PM   #30
jadnashua
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As I understand it, the PEI rating only applies to a glazed tile. Glossy is typically more slippery than matt, and an unglazed porcelain (unless polished) is often better wet than any glazed tile. A smaller tile with more grout lines usually is safer as a system and might negate some of the surface friction or lack of it for the tile itself. It would also depend on the type of grout you used...an epoxy might not help much, if any. The PEI in a shower isn't probably a big deal, as it would be say in an entryway to the house where you'd be wearing shoes that may be tracking in lost of grit...most people don't wear shoes in the shower!

The industry has a new wet coefficient standard. It's been described in various threads, so a search should find it.
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