rebuilding my 11 yr old shower

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Originally Posted by bbcamp

Neil, a lot of your questions are answered here.

Please read through all of this, including the links to other sites.

I saw this one which was found inside your link above. http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

I just couldn't understand why mortar bed isn't that wet enough to hold each sand and cement. While I was looking at the pictures, it looks that they're almost dry. However, when you guys put the final layer above the liner, does it really gets strong like a concrete walkway?

[bbcamp]

When there's enough water to make the sand/cement mixture hold it's shape when squeezed into a ball, then there's plenty of water to hydrate the cement. Too much water makes the deck mud slump, and that's a problem when you are trying to make a sloped shower floor.

Deck mud will never be as hard and durable as sidewalk concrete. It's not supposed to be. It has to be just strong enough to set a tile on it, but remain porous so that water easily passes through it.

Your earlier question to Mike about thinsetting CBU to the floor: CBU is backerboard. You embedd it in a layer of thinset before youscrew it to the floor. The thinset fills any voids between the CBU and the subfloor, giving you a very solid surface for the floor tiles. You do not thinset backerboard to walls, though.

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Originally Posted by bbcamp

When there's enough water to make the sand/cement mixture hold it's shape when squeezed into a ball, then there's plenty of water to hydrate the cement. Too much water makes the deck mud slump, and that's a problem when you are trying to make a sloped shower floor.

When we create the mortar bed, do we press it downwards so it's gets compacted? Do I need to staple a mesh to the CBU on the floor before I put the first mortar? Do I need to put another mesh on top of the liner?

Deck mud will never be as hard and durable as sidewalk concrete. It's not supposed to be. It has to be just strong enough to set a tile on it, but remain porous so that water easily passes through it.

Will it be enough to take our weight?

Your earlier question to Mike about thinsetting CBU to the floor: CBU is backerboard. You embedd it in a layer of thinset before youscrew it to the floor. The thinset fills any voids between the CBU and the subfloor, giving you a very solid surface for the floor tiles. You do not thinset backerboard to walls, though.

I couldn't remember where I saw it but someone told me not to use cement board on the floor. What is true then?

Also, why aren't we putting thinset in the backerboard? How are we to stick the tiles then?

Sorry for this many questions.

[bbcamp]

Yes, you pack the deck mud into place. Take a short section of 2x4 and a framing hammer to pound it down if you have to. You can see from the varoius posts and links in the shower construction thread that you'll need to work out all the voids and compress the mud as much as it will go.

If you are building you shower on a wood subfloor, then you first cover the floor with darpaper or plastic, then staple down some diamond lath. You do not need to put the lath in the second layer.

The subfloor provides all the strenth to support your weight. You simply do not want the mud bed to crumble. It will be plenty strong for that. Mind you, you will want to protect the mudbed from ladders and even your own knees, so a folded blanket and a a piece of heavy cardboard should be used to protect the deck mud until you are ready to tile.

You don't use cement board on shower floors. It's fine in the rest of the bathroom, or any other room, floor. We'll stop talking about any other floors until you get finished with the shower, OK?

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Originally Posted by bbcamp

If you are building you shower on a wood subfloor, then you first cover the floor with darpaper or plastic, then staple down some diamond lath. You do not need to put the lath in the second layer.

I'm understanding it real better now. If I really understood it correctly, the darpaper or plastic you mentioned above is totally different from pan liner, right?


EDIT: I googled darpaper and didn't find one. Maybe you meant tar paper? If so, then can I use my 15lbs tar paper that I used for my hardwood flooring?

[oogabooga]

Yep, he meant tar paper.

Rob.

[bbcamp]

Well, I was using the technical term, but you're right, Google will know it by "tar paper."

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Originally Posted by bbcamp

Well, I was using the technical term, but you're right, Google will know it by "tar paper."

btw, I edited my post again. I was asking if I can use the 15lbs asphalt paper that I used in my hardwood floor. Can I?

[John Bridge]

Technically, that's 15 lb. felt. Actually, it's tar paper. Yes, you can use it.

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Hey guys,

I continued last night on removing my tiles. Last night, I removed the wall that had the shower pipes behind it. I noticed that the hot pipe was attached to a 2x4 stud, about 8 inches long. This short stud was like a support to the copper pipe. However, it was burning. It's darker than charcoal black. It's really burned. What should I do to fix it? I'm worried that it might cause fire.

Please advice!

Thanks. Neil

[rspainhower]

Are you saying it was on fire/burning when you looked at it? It may be that it was charcoaled when the joints were sweat in the original installation.

[JTG]

Neil
Your hot water is not hot enough to char or burn the stud. Are you sure that it was not burned when the plumber was doing the soldering of the pipes.
JTG

[MarcusEngley]

Hi Neil,

To echo the guys, I've got a couple of studs that are charcoal-black, thanks to some aggressive soldering on my part. Keep that fire extinguisher handy, but don't worry about your hot water pipes.

Marcus

[v1rtu0s1ty]

The house is 10 years old so I don't know. But NO, it was not on fire
The only part that is charcoal black is the stud that touches the copper pipe. And maybe, here is what I'm thinking now. Since it's a copper pipe, they could have soldered it using a torch to hold the elbow and pipe. What do you think?

I have a pic here with me but I forgot my usb cable at home. I'll post it tonight.

[rspainhower]

if there is a joint there then that is exactly what it is. This is very common to see with copper.