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Unread 12-10-2006, 10:28 PM   #1
ashleykremm
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Red face fiberglass shower pan Q's

I have a 30" x 60" fiberglass shower pan that is 20 years old, but still in good shape. I'm considering leaving it and the drain in place, and just replacing the wall tile above the pan.

From what I've read, it's better to remove it and build a new pan, but I've never built a shower pan and it seems like if I don't have to it would be quite a relief. If it's a prudent thing to do, I don't mind be called lazy. I'm a pretty slow worker, so it could save soo much time.

Tanks a bunch, Lazy Ashley
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Unread 12-10-2006, 11:03 PM   #2
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Ashley,

The final decision is yours, but those pans do not last forever. Now would be a good time to go all new.

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Unread 12-11-2006, 07:48 PM   #3
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Thanks Dean,

Now you've got me leaning toward the "go for it" side of the fence. How many hours/days/$$ are we talkin here for the eaiest method? Would that be the mortar method?

I don't suppose I could utilize the existing drain, could I? I'm already spending most of my budget on the framless door and tile.

Beginner Ashley
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Unread 12-12-2006, 06:44 AM   #4
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Ashley,

Yes, the motar bed would be the cheapest option ($200 or less). You can learn more about it in the Liberry link, shown at the top. Yes, you would need a new drain.

Or you could go with the pre-formed tray that Schluter has. You would need to use the Kerdi on the floors and walls though.



I understand budgets, especially with a frameless door. Just make the door a little thinner and it would pay for the new pan.

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Unread 12-14-2006, 01:50 PM   #5
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Thanks Dean for all the good advice. Looks like I'll mortar it, old school. I hope the drain assembly will go smoothly. I'm pretty confident after the drain is in without leaks all the way to the frameless door mounting.

It looks like my glass guy in Boulder can get me 3/8" for about $20/s.f.($300) Then I'll attempt drilling through the ceramic tile and into studs. Does anyone know why the tile doesn't crack under all the pressure of the hinge pulling into it? I'm guessing that the hinge is designed to put pressure inside the hole of the tile, directly onto the stud. And wouldn't the stud have 1/4" concrete board in front of it?



Curious Ashley
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Unread 12-14-2006, 03:20 PM   #6
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why not just replace it with another fiberglass receptor or order the Kerdi 32x60 shower kit. You will only have to trim the back so it fits around your drain. the kit gives you the kerdi, kerdi band, corners, the kerdi drain, and a preformed tray that you can tile. good luck.
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Unread 12-14-2006, 03:27 PM   #7
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The door hinges carry the weight of the door to the screws and into the studs. The tiles and backerboard are not stressed significantly.
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Unread 12-21-2006, 01:17 AM   #8
ashleykremm
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I've decided to go ahead and replace everything with a new shower. It will cost $1,200 plus the drain/pan assembly. I've searched endlessly for opinions on which way to go, Kerdi or mortar. I still don't know how much a Kerdi system costs. How much time is actually saved with Kerdi? I'm still on the fence because so many people love the Kerdi/Schluter way. But, some of the old timers seem perfectly happy with doing 2 layers of mud. Anyone have a good "bottom line" opinion?
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Unread 12-21-2006, 01:51 AM   #9
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Going with a full Kerdi shower and pan will run in the neighborhood of $400. Take a look at this link to Tile Experts who sell Kerdi.

The main difference is going to be that a Kerdi shower waterproofs the shower directly behind the tile. Moisture in a shower can get no further than the backside of the tile. This makes for a shower that dries out quicker after it's done being used and doesn't have a chance to support mold growth. In a traditionally built shower, moisture is likely to be in the top mud layer the pan (that's why we heavily advocate a pre-slope to allow moisture to drain away via weep holes)...and can wick up into the cementboard walls a bit.

If you are going for a full replacement and your budget is about to break, build a traditional shower using the proper methods outlined in the Liberry and through the forum.....and you'll build a shower that will last a very long time.
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Unread 12-21-2006, 07:47 AM   #10
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Ashley,

I would go with the Kerdi. You should come under budget ... it is faster ... it is totally waterproof ... they give you a CD that you can watch on your TV about installation ... you don't have to make a mud pan ... you can order most everything of the Internet.

Another link to the Kerdi shower system is
http://www.tileprotection.com/home.php?cat=6

You would get the 32 X 60 and slice it equally on both sides to make it a 30 X 60

I would make sure that the package has enough of the membrane material. I also would go ahead and purchase, the preformed corners.

Either way you go, use this thread to get additional insights on each step that you take.
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Unread 12-21-2006, 01:25 PM   #11
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$400 isn't bad since a mortar bed is about $200, no? Either way, I'm not real confident in dealing with a drain removal and install. Today I'm back on the fence, leaning toward old school or nothing at all....probably due to the day I'm havin.

I'm snowed in at a friends house(I'm housesitting) in the foothills of Boulder. I got the plow about 100 yrds. down the 1/2 mile private driveway, then got seriously stuck in the 3 ft. of snow. Looks like I'll be here till Christmas, not a happy housesitter! Soon to be bored and pissed.

Ashley
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Unread 12-21-2006, 02:19 PM   #12
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That Schluter tray comes in two styles, Ashley, either with the centered drain or the offset drain for tub replacements.

Still a lot less expensive to just make a mud pre-slope and easier to ensure that your drain is in the right place.

And quit grumblin' about the snow. Hell, half the country is wishin' they were fixin' to have them a White Christmas and here you are complainin' aobut yours.
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Unread 12-21-2006, 03:09 PM   #13
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This is the first time I've grumbled about snow since moving here from San Diego 13 years ago. But, this is different. I'm holed up alone, for days. Thanks for calling me out, CX.

If I decide to go ahead with the full project, I promise not to be a bitch or a pain. Once I destroy the old pan and there's no going back, I'll be in a better mood, that is if everything goes perfect. http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/misc...g=0&forumid=1#

Back to the drain, will I just cut it off and glue a new one on to the verticle PVC pipe? Is it most likely to be PVC? in a 20 year old house. By the way, I've read tons of threads and the whole liberry, I just can't seem to find out exactly what needs to be done to begin replacing a drain.

Whining Ash
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Unread 12-21-2006, 04:26 PM   #14
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Ash,

What's snow? Both CX and I are in the flat lands of Texas and to us ... the grass looks greener (or snowy) on the other side.

Take these snow bound days and think which way you want to go. But yes ... basically you cut of the old and put on the new. As others have mentioned, If your drain isn't in the middle, you would have to add to it, to get it centered OR do a mud pan.

You know how it goes. If you live the old one in, it will leak next year. If you replace it ... it would have lasted another 20 years.
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Unread 12-22-2006, 02:21 PM   #15
ashleykremm
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You're right Dean, sometimes the snow looks whiter on the other side. Some people are better than me at accepting disappointment. It's baked in by now, since I just turned 1/2 century. I guess I'm more upset at what the Bush Team has done for 6 years than I am about being stuck for 4 days. Sorry to say I voted for him against Gore in 2000.

I didn't intend to get off on a tangent and use this space for "non-tiling" chit chat, cuz I am a serious remodeler, and I will need your help when I do my shower.

DRAIN, LINER QUESTION:
My understanding is that when I remove the old drain with a saw, I will then:
1) measure how high I want the new drain and then glue the bottom half of it to the riser.
2) Install the pre-slope on felt and tacked-down lath.
3) notch the studs, then put in the liner, cut around the weep holes, then caulk the top half of the drain on top of the liner.
4) put some crushed tile on the weep holes, then put down the 2nd mud layer to cover the entire liner.(I'm planning on building my bench with 2x4's and plywood)
5) Do I put liner on the bench too, and then mud on top of that(or just wonderboard like the walls)?

Is that it in a nutshell? Please let me know where I have a misunderstanding of the process. Thanks a bunch, Ashley
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