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Unread 10-06-2009, 05:55 PM   #61
Dan Clark
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Posted pics in another thread

OK. My bad... I posted the pics in this thread: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=66395.

Regards,

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Unread 10-06-2009, 06:34 PM   #62
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Dan, thanks for the effort to cross reference this. The only reason that I was able to point this out to some other people was due to you and george's information posted in that thread. Amazing that it isn't in the owner's manual.

As a DeWalt saw missionary ( ), we need to keep the saws running true to attract converts.

.
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Unread 11-15-2009, 07:49 AM   #63
Crestone Tile
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Going to tile today on the Sabbath (sorry to offend you Gueuzeman). I'll be nice and warm inside with the Dewalt. This morning's weather ... no problem:
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Unread 11-15-2009, 07:50 AM   #64
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Anyone want to buy a bucket heater?
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Unread 11-15-2009, 09:55 AM   #65
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But seriously, keep the bucket heater. Some jobs have really cold water, and even though you are now using your saw inside, warming the water up is a bonus. Of course not for mortar mixing.

Nice snow! I'm not quite ready for it yet, though I did have a dusting going over the mountain last week.

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Unread 11-15-2009, 03:59 PM   #66
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The luxury of a warm bucket of water is not to be dismissed. Especially when your start losing feeling in the digits!

Regarding the weather, I've lived in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Colorado (around Denver and Boulder), Illinois, Massachusetts, and New Hampshire. Now I live in the Seattle area. It gets cold here occasionally and we have snow once in a while. But I don't miss those sub-zero temps one bit. Or snow up to your eyeballs or to the eyeballs of the fellow standing on your shoulders! The day I left New Hampshire for the last time there was 44 inches of snow on my deck. Later, I heard that they had another 40 inches on top of that. I've had my fill of hard winters.

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Unread 12-13-2009, 04:46 AM   #67
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I rented a Dewalt tile saw to cut some tile that is too large for my TM-75, a 16" honed and filled travertine from Turkey. Given my limited experience with tile saws I’m not sure if what I’m experiencing is normal.

1) The saw seems to kick up a fair amount of dust. At first, I thought it was a mist- and I’m not entirely sure it’s not, but the ‘smoke’ seems to hang in the air longer than I would expect. The water pump is working, spews a nice little fountain with the tubing removed, and there doesn’t appear to be a blockage. This ‘smoke’ comes out both the back side and from under the tray on the front side.

2) There seems to be a large amount of a pasty build up- in the groove, in the brushes, and every so often a small glop falls off the blade as I’m cutting. My first time cutting travertine, so maybe this is normal for a stone vs. ceramic?

3) The saw cuts straight, off approx 1mm over 16”, though I’m getting some bowing in the middle, being off as much as 3-4mm in some cases.

The saw is a rental, I rented it a year or so ago to cut some porcelain and it was new, or nearly new at that time- it does not look so new now. I bought a new blade as it was chipping the corner at the end of the cut. I’m using a Rigid 10” blade as that was the most expensive blade HD had at 7 pm on a Sat evening.

Any thoughts?

Oh, and where exactly are the little tubes that the water comes out of supposed to be aimed- on the diamonds, more forward over the tile, further back on the blade? I’ve always positioned them on the diamonds, but it occurred to me this could be wrong.

TIA
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Unread 12-13-2009, 06:58 AM   #68
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That saw is not getting enough water.There should be no dry dust and You should never have sludge build up on your blade. I have problems with me Dewalt getting enough water to the blade sometimes.
First check the hose from the pump make sure it's not pinched between the water pan and the frame of saw where it goes into the saw.
Sometimes I take the hose off the pump and blow threw it.
Depends on what I'm cutting but usually my water is flip all the way up pointing slightly down on the middle of the blade. You can see water coming off the blade when the saw is running.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 08:32 AM   #69
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What Jim Wood says, more water. Also as he said the line and pump probably need a good cleaning , as well as the table, as sludge does build up in the blade groove but should be cleaned out regularly, Tray can be removed by removing rubber stop that screws in. Clean black trays under the table while you have it out.

WOW in cut could be possibly lessened by doing the "DeWalt Dip"- lifting the blade up and dropping it at the end of the cut to prevent blowing out the end of the cut, and the initial score will not bog down the blade and create a straight groove that will guide the rest of the cut. Your travertine is soft and sludgy and can create more drag on a blade than a super hard piece of porcelain.

Silly gueuzeman video here- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ELF2TsGBRo


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Unread 12-13-2009, 10:13 AM   #70
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Thanks guys! I am going to clean the pump and line and see if that helps with the water. I felt, intuitively, like there might not be enough water, but I wasn't sure. It looks like I haven't been placing the water in the right place either. How can I know if the saw is getting enough water?

Gueuze- Your video was very helpful and I will be employing that trick. What does WOW stand for? Wondering if maybe you were indicating that the method could be used not only for the end chipping but also for the bowing in the middle.

I'm also back mitering, any tips for a nice straight cut there? I'm getting a pretty ragged edge, which I've been able to sand out, but it would be nice to start out a little smoother. Can I assume the Dewalt Dip will work on the miter cuts, too? The new blade helped the blowout on straight cuts, but I'm still loosing the end on miter cuts.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 10:25 AM   #71
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Stephanie- WOW is the bow in the cut, correct. Wow and flutter, from the old days of tape decks.

Back mitering tip- make the cut straight (pretty much a chip free cut), then do your bevel just to the very edge of your straight cut. And yes you can plunge miter- and work the miter on the ends first to avoid blowout.

The straight/bevel cut will take more time, but it is up to you to decide if it is worth it.

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Unread 12-13-2009, 10:31 AM   #72
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Quote:
Stephanie- "the Dewalt Dip "

oooooh, I like it! That's a keeper phrase to add to the lexicon.

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Unread 12-13-2009, 10:56 AM   #73
sdk
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Quote:
make the cut straight (pretty much a chip free cut), then do your bevel just to the very edge of your straight cut.
I know I'm supposed to attribute that, but don't know how, so- by Gueuze

Is this any different than making the miter up to the factory cut edge? I experimented with that a little last night and actually had better luck cutting further into the tile. Of course, I was working with too little water. I will try it again with the water fixed, but is there any difference to making a straight cut vs. the factory edge?

I did find a blockage in the water line up where the clear line attaches to the black 'fingers'. I also set up a bucket to run the pump with clean water, hopefully this solves the problem.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 11:43 AM   #74
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Go to the FAQ in the dark blue bar near the top of the page, Stephanie. There's a short tutorial on attribution.
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Unread 12-13-2009, 05:47 PM   #75
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Gueuze,

Nice tip! I'm using a zero plastic surface that Shaughnn suggested. It works very well, but I'm going to try your idea too.

Thanks,

Dan.
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