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Unread 11-19-2019, 11:17 AM   #61
speed51133
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not sure about your particular tub, but I know when researching a tub like yours made by Kohler (the Archer) they specifically state NOT to let the tub lip rest on the tile. It should be elevated off of the plywood using 4 1/8in spaces on the long sides and one on the short sides. Essentially, you don't want the plywood supporting all of the lip. The lip is not a structural support. When you sit on it it SHOULD bend and deform slightly. You need to let it do that with a flexible joint of caulk. The durock then abuts the lip and spacers, it does not go UNDER the tub. The durock is then caulked at the perimeter. The tile then goes close to the tub with a 1/16in space that is filled with caulk.

At least that is what Kohler said...
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Unread 11-19-2019, 11:28 AM   #62
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Thank you, Mike, that is great info!!!!! It may actually make my life a little bit easier. I can stay with 1/2" and run the durock or kerdi board and tile just up to the edge of the tub flange and then caulk the inside corner it makes. Trick for me will be making those curved cuts in the 12 x 24 tile and also filling the gap between the bottom of the flange and plywood deck to lessen the gap and give the flange/lip some support before caulking there also. Hate to leave that lip flapping in the wind.


Actually, I just followed your idea and looked up the jacuzzi installation instructions and it shows the flange resting on the tile. The tub is supported from the floor as it sits. It does not show a caulk gap on the bottom of the flange, but in the inside corner formed at the flange and tile.

https://www.jacuzzi.com/baths/wp-con...016-8-2-16.pdf
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Unread 11-19-2019, 11:39 AM   #63
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Heres the detail
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Unread 11-19-2019, 01:52 PM   #64
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Well, you are partly correct. They show a 1x4 there that is simply FLOATING. It is specifically not for support. Honestly, I find many of these plumbing instructions very confusing. Plumbers I talk to often deviate from what is shown.

Like I said, my recommendations were with respect to the Kohler Archer and what the instructions show.

Good luck!
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Unread 11-20-2019, 10:37 AM   #65
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Yes sir, and I very much appreciate the advice! If you hadn't posted the tub instructions, I would have never thought to look at them regarding tiling. I think common sense will steer me right and as long as that lip carries no load other than someone climbing in, I'll be good.

I need to figure out if using 1/4" durock on the tub deck under the new tile will be ok instead of the 1/2" that was there. I am hoping that by adding some supports between the plywood top and floor will stiffen it up enough that the 1/4" will be ok.
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Unread 11-20-2019, 11:09 AM   #66
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To save me scanning the entire thread for this one piece of information, can you tell me the thickness of the plywood that is on there now?
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Unread 11-20-2019, 11:50 AM   #67
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It is 3/4". Durock was 1/2". Tile was 1/4". New tile is 3/8".
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Unread 11-21-2019, 08:08 PM   #68
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Will I need to move the existing shower valve body out since my new tile and thin set will be thicker? I thought about this today and now I am worried if I don't it will be to deep and I'm also worri d if I do it won't be deep enough. Looks like new ones come with a mud ring to st depth from finished face. My valve is a omen type 2510 I think based on pictures online. New tile will add 1/4" I think.
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Unread 11-22-2019, 06:46 AM   #69
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Hope that's not a bad omen, Brian.

Not that I have a lot of experience but shower valves will typically accommodate a range of wall thicknesses when set at a particular depth, using the trim collar that goes around the stem. Ya might be able to find the install instructions online, try the omen site first.

How old is it? Does it have an anti-scald feature?
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Unread 11-22-2019, 06:57 AM   #70
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I hope it's not a bad omen! I'm glad I thought about it while walls still open! Here is a pic. It looks like the original installation has the mud ring flush with the studs. Instructions I found say flush with the fi I shed face. Now I'm really confused. Was it wrong from the builder? Sorry photo is sideways, no clue how to fix that.
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Unread 11-22-2019, 06:59 AM   #71
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Here's a further back pic
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Unread 11-22-2019, 07:11 AM   #72
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Just put the handle and trim plate back on and it looks like I'm good up to around 1.25" and still be solid. I'm putting half inch kerdi board and 12x24x3/8 tile. That should total around 1 1/8", right?
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Unread 11-22-2019, 07:13 AM   #73
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Really dont want to learn to be a plumber today!
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Unread 11-22-2019, 07:26 AM   #74
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Looks good from here. Glad I could help.

Still, is that an anti-scald valve? If not then you'll need to do some learnin' after all, and also buy some appropriate plumbers pants so yous can at least look the part when you bend over.
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Unread 11-22-2019, 07:50 AM   #75
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I believe its anti scald, takes a 12225 cartridge which has a balancing spool, plus in 12 years I've never been scalded by it if that counts. Dram on valve reads 102358, which was replaced by positemp valves. But still believe its anti scald.
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