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Unread 11-18-2019, 11:47 AM   #46
BBDIY
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One more question. My subfloor is 3/4" T&G. I had to cut out and replace a piece to access plumbing and just used 3/4" plywood (see pics above). Shower is 48"x48". Do i need to lay a piece of plywood, maybe 1/2", over the 48x48 space or is it good like it is? Going to do a mud pan 1" at drain, 1.5" at walls.
Joists are 2x8 at 16 center. thanks!!!!
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Unread 11-18-2019, 12:03 PM   #47
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Did you install blocking all around that opening before reinstalling that section of plywood, Brian? But regardless of the answer to that, if adding 1/2" in height isn't a problem I'd probably add it.

Same Makita impact driver I have. Love that thing.
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Unread 11-18-2019, 12:20 PM   #48
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I sistered 2x4's to the joists at the short end but didn't block the other direction between the joists, can If i should though, plywood is not screwed down yet. The makita driver is great! can't believe I was running screws with a corded drill before!
What do you think about the curb? I can go any direction here. Stacked 2X4'S, stacked kerdi board, foam kerdi curb, bricks, form and pour, etc. Having never done this, I can't decide which way to go! If I do stacked 2x4's, do I just put 1/2" durock on the sides and top and run the kerdi over it?
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Unread 11-18-2019, 01:23 PM   #49
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If it were mine I'd use some 1X4 cut to length so they will fit between the joists. Slip them on the flat under the existing ply to about 1/2 the width of the 1X4, secure with screws. Then attach your patch panel. I'd still be inclined to screw down a layer of 1/2", but I tend towards over-build.

I'm outta my depth on the curb, also having never done one. But from what I've read here over the years any of the methods you described will work. The bricks over a wooden floor don't make a lot of sense to me though, and hassling with lath and mud seems like a PITA, but I have exactly 1 mud job under my belt, and I can't even consider it a real mud job.

You applied primer to all your new drain piping joints, yes?
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Unread 11-18-2019, 01:34 PM   #50
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Thanks, Dan. Yes, primer and lotsa glue on all joints. That photo is my dry fit, except the couplers on the main line. It's a much prettier pic than the one with purple primer slopped everywhere and alingment lines sharpied on the pipes! I'm no plumber for sure, that took me a couple of hours what a pro would do in 10 minutes!

I'll add the cross bracing and 1/2" ply on top for peace of mind.

I think my two curb options are really either a modified kerdi curb (would tablesaw a bevel on top), or the 2x4 method.

Hopefully someone will chime in on whether 2x4's with 1/2" durock on sides and top is ok. Hate to do lath and mud if not really needed, but I also want it to be solid and right.
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Unread 11-18-2019, 02:01 PM   #51
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Don't run the 1X4's across the opening, run them parallel to the long side(s).

You just want to create a ledge, for long edges of the new panel to sit on, and those will be supported by the edges of the old plywood.

If you are going to Kerdi the top of your mud floor, and Kerdi your curb too, I see no reason you couldn't build the curb with 2X4's, then screw some Durock to the top and both sides, then mud the floor, and finally blanket the whole with Kerdi.

I feel your plumbing pain, Brian, I had to rework my vanity sink drains just this weekend onna count the inspector didn't like my first TWO attempts. Don't get me started. LOL
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Unread 11-18-2019, 07:23 PM   #52
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When tiling the front of the tub surround, should the tile land on top of the floor or behind the cut edge in the floor. I can do either, what would a pro do.
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Unread 11-18-2019, 07:49 PM   #53
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You can do it either way but since the cuts don't line up very well, I'd probably run the tub skirt tiles over on top of the floor tiles.
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Unread 11-18-2019, 08:09 PM   #54
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Thanks, Davy. Some rookie must have installed that floor some 9 years ago.
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Unread 11-19-2019, 07:50 AM   #55
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Thanks for all of the advice everyone. I spend all week planning so I can do the work on the weekends!

I have some blocking questions.

Around the bottom perimeter of the shower, what should the blocking be for the mud pan? Is 2x6 ok?

I'm not ready for grab bars, but someone will need them some day. What size blocking and at what height should that be in the wall?

For the glass, it is difficult for me to get a full height stud(s) in the wall. The glass will fall between studs. What are some other accepted methods for this? Can I put nailers on the inside of the studs and then 3/4" plywood so that it is flush with the face of the stud for the glass brackets?

Thanks!
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Unread 11-19-2019, 08:50 AM   #56
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2X6 blocking at the bottom is fine, but since you're doing a single mud pan covered with membrane 2x4's will work and be easier to, well, work.

From what I read, 36" from FF to C/L of the grab bars is typical. I'd use 2X6's, also at a 36" C/L from FF, to give you some wiggle room.

Ya mean for the glass door, Brian? Just me, but given how interior non load bearing walls are constructed, I'd not hang a 3/8" glass door from a single stud that may likely have questionable attachments top and bottom, not to mention how well the top plate itself is attached. The doors are heavy and installed with fairly tight clearances.
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Unread 11-19-2019, 09:32 AM   #57
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Thanks, Dan. Yes, for the glass door hinges and the brackets for the larger panel at the tub end. From what I read, seems like double studs is typical, but I can't do that easily. The walls are exterior walls not interior walls. I'm thinking the 3/4" plywood on nailers sistered to the studs would be pretty stout. I'll call a glass shop and ask what they recommend.
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Unread 11-19-2019, 09:57 AM   #58
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the tub deck tiles were on raw plywood. I would want to change that, at least with liquid backerboard or something. Not sure on your clearance with the tub lip. Probably paint it with redgard afterwards would be a good idea. You can't just paint the wood with redgard.


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Unread 11-19-2019, 10:07 AM   #59
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Speed, the tub deck tiles were on 1/2" durock which was on the 3/4" plywood. tile was 1/4" thick. My plan is to go back with 1/4" durock and I will be installing 3/8" thick tile. That should put me right close to the tub lip. Not sure I'll be able to slide it under the lip and still have a flexible joint. I looked at raising the tub, but that is more work than I think I want to do. I may just tile up to the edge, but would prefer the edge resting on the tile. Is the flexible joint absolutely necessary here?
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Unread 11-19-2019, 10:16 AM   #60
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I've no door on my shower, Brian, but still went over board on the framing for the large glass panel (there is framing for a door should I choose to install one). Turns out the rediculous framing for the panel isn't needed as the panel basically sits on the knee wall and floor. The brackets into the wall really only serve to keep the panel from flopping about.

And so it shall be for the panel separating your shower from your tub; its weight will rest on the end of the tub deck, and the back of it will fasten to the wall with a couple of narrow, clam shell like brackets that attach to the wall with a single screw. So, in that location, a single stud - or a single stud with another 2X attached to the side of it (or whatever else you come up with so those brackets will have something to attach to) will be just fine.

I'd still want two studs, solidly connected top and bottom, to hang a door from.
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