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Unread 11-06-2019, 11:27 AM   #31
BBDIY
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Considering using the DILEX-eke on inside corners and floor to wall joints. Talk me into or out of this. Other than color concerns it looks like a clean solution. I have read through a bunch of threads and some people like them, some people caulk, and John Bridge grouts these joints? I've only ever laid floor tile so the plane changes are new to me. I did order a tube of color matched silicone before I saw the DILEX, but it won't break my heart to not use it.
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Unread 11-06-2019, 06:14 PM   #32
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My two cents I don’t like those profiles, they look too institutional to me. I’d use color matched silicone at changes of plane.

Re: your earlier question on Kerdi’ing the curb, the 5” band will work, you’ll just need at least two strips to span the inside face, top of the curb and be able to reach the outside face, all while getting 2” overlap onto the pan and between strips of k-band. If you’ve got extra Kerdi fabric (are you kerdi’ing the pan?), I’d just cut a single, wider strip from that.
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Unread 11-07-2019, 06:16 AM   #33
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Thanks, Lou. My plan was to buy the pre-kerdi'd pan, curb, and kerdi board, so all I would need was a roll of the band. After reading a little, I see that the curb is not pitched (ridiculous imo). Now, I plan to buy just the foam curb and put a bevel on the top on a table saw, then waterproof. Maybe I can find someone with some scraps of the kerdi fabric here in the Charleston area, but that is doubtful. I like the idea of minimizing the built up seams.

I did order some color matched silicone, thanks for the input on the DILEX.

My new issue is that the tile on the jacuzzi surround top is a full 1/8" thinner than the new tile and the thinset looks to only be about an 1/8" My new tile is 3/8" and my new thinset will be 1/4" compressed. So, I have to figure out how to gain that 1/4" so my new tile will slide under the lips of the tub. I guess I either raise the tub or lower the surround? Neither looks like fun.

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Unread 11-07-2019, 10:20 AM   #34
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For an outside corner like circled below, do I just invert an inside corner (kereck) or does it have a specific top face? sorry if this is a silly question, trying to get my materials figured out.
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Unread 11-07-2019, 11:37 AM   #35
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You're correct about the tile installation on top of your tub deck. I'd recommend raising the tub and you must provide enough of a gap to allow a 1/8th" gap between tile and tub for a flexible sealant.

It's also possible to simply tile up to the sides of the tub (with an appropriate gap, of course) instead of tiling under it if your tub profile permits. I'd want the deck waterproofed in either case, but it's technically not a wet area.

Yes, you can use those corners in either orientation, or at least you could last time I had any. But for that outside corner I'd much more likely just fold the corner from the waterproofing membrane even when using Kerdi, which is much thicker than my favorite Durock Shower System membrane.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-07-2019, 11:59 AM   #36
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Ha! I looked at the durock system after your advice earlier on. The kerdi is easier for me to find locally and the consensus seemed to be the drain was better, otherwise I would have given it more thought. I suck at wallpapering, so I was hoping to avoid buying membrane by using the pre-waterproofed boards, pan, and curb. Then I found out the curb is not pitched, so now i will need to wrap that in membrane, which I was not planning on buying. Looks like the durock curb isnt pitched either, why don't they do this?
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Unread 11-07-2019, 01:31 PM   #37
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I wasn't aware that the Durock system even had a foam curb. I don't use any part of that system other than the drain and membrane because none of the rest of it is at all necessary in my view. I know the reason (excuse?) given by Schluter for not sloping the curb top was that they were afraid people would install it improperly. I figure it was actually either an oversight or and expense in the manufacturing process they wanted to avoid. The folks who developed the Durock system would have had the benefit of that experience and I've no idea why theirs would not be properly sloped.

Not sure what might be considered better about the Schluter drain, either, but that's another discussion.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-07-2019, 01:43 PM   #38
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Yes, and as an amateur who's only ever done floors it's hard to chose when half the pros like this and half the pros like that. If this was my bread and butter I'm sure I'd develop a favorite as well, which I'm confident would be the old school dry mud and 2x4 curb. Don't have the time or room for error so need it to be quick and easy and waterproof given my lack of experience! Glad this forum is here, I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions around routine stuff. Maybe i need to develop and sell a pitched curb that integrates with any system.
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Unread 11-11-2019, 06:32 AM   #39
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Well, worked my butt off the last 3 days, got most demo done, some things have changed in my plan.

1. There was no existing waterproofing!!!! Had about 2' of CBU on bottom and green board on top. No other waterproofing!!!! Look at the photos.

2. Drain is not 24" center, floor joists are, duh. So, I won't be using the kerdi tray. I will instead do a mud bed with kerdi on top. I think deep down inside I wanted to do this anyway, I will have lots of questions. I'm guessing I have to cut the tailpiece out of the drain with an inside saw. Any tips here?

3. Tub surround top is 3/4 plywood, had a layer of 1/2 cbu, and 1/4 tile. I want to go back with 1/4 CBU to accommodate my thicker tile, thoughts? I will add some bracing underneath the radius cuts in the plywood, they flex some when I step on them.

4. There was no bracing for the glass. Anchors were in the tile only.

Any suggestions or opinions from the pros from what you see?
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Unread 11-11-2019, 06:47 AM   #40
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Some more...
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Unread 11-11-2019, 02:14 PM   #41
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When looking at the photos above, the one of the drain pipe, looking for help on what to do with that. It had a no caulk drain on it and on the flat edge of the pipe top there was a flimsy flat piece of plastic on it that broke off. Where do I cut? I believe it is offset some.
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Unread 11-11-2019, 07:05 PM   #42
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I normally get my drain first, then figure out where the riser pipe needs to be cut off. I assume you'll be using a Kerdi drain.
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Unread 11-11-2019, 08:06 PM   #43
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Yes, will use the kerdi drain. It looks like the riser is offset from the trap by way of two 45's and that they whittled away at a floor joist to get it centered where it is. If I cut a section of the subflooring out to access the trap can I simply screw it back down or is there something special I would need to do? The way it sits now with the offset I dont think I have enough depth to get the kerdi drain in. Will verify that tomorrow if the tile store has the drain in stock. If I eliminate the offsets, the drain wont be centered on the mud pan I plan to make. Nothing easy I guess.
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Unread 11-12-2019, 06:48 AM   #44
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You may need to add blocking between the joists, then nail or screw the plywood back down.
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Unread 11-18-2019, 09:31 AM   #45
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Made some more progress this weekend. Cut the old drain and ptrap out and plumbed in a new one to get ready for my kerdi drain. All of the plastic pipe strapping was broken, so I replaced with galvanized. Is that OK on PVC pipe?

What kind of curb construction would be best? I'm doing a mud pan with kerdi on top.

Cant figure out how to keep my pictures from rotating...
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