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Unread 08-04-2019, 03:43 PM   #31
Carbidetooth
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I might have the transition from backer to drywall be the hub of the decision wheel. One target needs to take precedence or it becomes a tail chasing exercise.


Splitting differences is often a workable solution, but only you can really make the call 'cus I can't see the whole picture from here. If you were to take some off the high spots, could that tapering situation be diminished?


I have done things from choosing the lesser of evils to shimming entire walls based on end goal and not compromising function. Budgets can figure into that too, but I had the good fortune of working for folks that knew my credo was real. "If I wouldn't do it on my own home, I won't do it to yours, and I'm a fussy SOB.
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Unread 08-08-2019, 03:44 PM   #32
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I'm going to split the difference. I did some test grinding on some tile backs with a RotoZip and diamond wheel and it's a lot easier than I thought it would be.

On the window well treatment: I have the 2" Kerdi Board strips placed around the window and set in Kerdi Fix. Is it best to put screws in the top horizontal and vertical pieces and leave the sill without screws and washers? Sucks that there isn't much felt around those washers on such a thin piece of Kerdi, but so it goes with a window in the shower I suppose.

In my mess ups I noticed that Kerdi Fix doesn't adhere very well to the Kerdi board bare foam.
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Unread 08-08-2019, 03:49 PM   #33
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Oh, and what's your preferred kerdi board to drywall transition? Both to ceiling and wall, not a wet area.
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Unread 08-09-2019, 11:06 PM   #34
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I talked with a Schluter rep. about screws through the Kerdi board around the window. They're needed. So I'm going to fill the screw holes and the washer fang holes with Kerdi Fix.

He did say I could get away with just Fixing the Board window sill though because the Band over top of it Fixed to the window and adhered to the sill with thinset would likely additionally hold it in place.
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Unread 08-23-2019, 06:05 PM   #35
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I finished installing Kerdi Band and am nearly ready to begin tiling.

I used Schluter All Set and followed the instructions on the bag for using it to apply a membrane, but that mix still came out to stiff. With more water the band definitely sits flatter to the wall.

So around the shower window where I made outside corners for the recess there are spots with a build up of 4 layers of band. Adding to this too thick an application of thinset under some layers of band, I'm looking at some buildup that I think I should address before starting to tile. In looking at these built up layers with the 3x6 subway that I will install up to them, it seems as if I will be able to stay flat with tile if I can get a thinset thickness of 3/16" or so.

But I just finished practicing setting some spare 4x4 tile with a 1/4" notch trowel and with good coverage the thinset thickness underneath is slightly more than 1/16". Does this seem correct? This leads me to believe that I should float some thinset on the walls to flatten them before I start putting up the subway tile.

If I do this, should I just feather out from the high spots of band or spread thinset over all of the wall to bring it all up to the same level as the high spots?

I've read on the forum that some haven't had any problems while laying subway tiles over up to 3 layers of band, but I'm afraid the build up I have will definitely present difficulties.
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Unread 08-23-2019, 08:49 PM   #36
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Anytime I need to float out a floor or wall, I never free hand it. I apply the thinset or filler and use a straight edge to remove the excess. Ride the straight edge on the thicker area that's built out and taper it gradually down to nothing with the longest straight edge as possible. The more gradual the fill is, the less noticeable it will be.
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Unread 08-24-2019, 01:39 PM   #37
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Thanks Davy. I used a 12" drywall knife as a straight edge to fan out some thinset around the window corners. I'll put a level on it later to see the difference it makes.
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Unread 08-24-2019, 01:49 PM   #38
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I'm planning to put Schluter Jolly trim around the window and niche. Seeing this picture got me thinking about which direction I should orient the trim so as to best encourage water runoff from the sill.From the picture it sure looks like to me that the best way would be to make it so the sill is the vertical part in the picture. Does it matter which way its oriented?
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Unread 08-24-2019, 01:53 PM   #39
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Looking at your pic, if the 4 corners of the window have the build out, I would get the outside edge all the way around straight first. I'm talking about from one built out corner to the next. Then, once that has set, use a 2 ft straight edge to go from the edge of the window to the corners, ceiling and tub.

The flatter you get the walls, the less grief you'll have installing the tiles.
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Unread 08-24-2019, 02:05 PM   #40
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I'll do that - looking at that photo, I was thinking I should have just done the whole wall.

I had that wall really flat before putting the kerdi band on. I'll definitely do more to reduce build up next time.
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Unread 08-24-2019, 02:17 PM   #41
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Heed Davy's advice, Leighton. While large tile can bridge some of what you're describing, those little 3 x 6 will want to follow the terrain. Smoothly blend the planes as far as you reasonably can.

Doing it now rather than trying to float little tiles even when setting (which rarely works very well) will pay off in the long game. One saving grace is that many, if not most, subway tiles have a pillowed edge which helps disguise discrepancies.

I would probably use Quadec or Rondec to visually balance both sides. I almost always use a sill, so only putting metal on 3 sides, but know how it's gonna evolve before you start. I would put the profile on the jamb and not the backwall, it will also build up a bit...makes life easier.
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Unread 08-31-2019, 04:34 PM   #42
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I skimmed more thinset on all of the back and one of the side walls. I'll flatten the shower fixture wall with more thinset once I install the niche and band it.

I leveled a ledger board and set 2 rows of tiles. When I removed the ledger board, small bits of kerdi band came up with it.

The top of ledger board was about 2 inches above the tub deck and so about dead center of a 5" wide band that bridged the kerdi board to tub junction and also covered the boards lower most screws. When I set the tiles on the ledger board some thinset worked it's way in between the ledger and the wall. When I removed the ledger the next morning the outermost layer of the band adhered to the ledger and pulled away from the wall in about three spots. The area of spots of peeled away band are about 1" long by 1/2" high.

Will cleaning these spots of thinset and spreading some kerdi fix be sufficient to maintain waterproofness? It was just a layer of band that pulled away, not all of it down to the thinset between the band and the board. In order to get another piece of band over top of the spots with a 2" overlap, I would have to remove tiles in the first row that I set. I can get some photos tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone for the help.
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Unread 08-31-2019, 08:17 PM   #43
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If you have the 2 inches of overlap you'll be fine. If in doubt, add some kerdi fix
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Unread 09-02-2019, 07:40 PM   #44
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Thanks Paul. I'll probably skim some Fix across them. Here's a couple photos of the Band flesh wounds (they're upside down) and the progress.

Also, I left about a 1/4" gap from the back wall end tile to the side wall because the gap decreases up to the ceiling. Can I fill this with thinset or should it be filled with caulk? The last photo shows the area.
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Unread 09-03-2019, 03:21 AM   #45
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that white stuff on the kerdi is just the fuzz layer so thinset bonds better the water proof layer is in the orange layer... IMHO anyway... so dont worry at all about this.
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