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Unread 12-07-2014, 07:53 AM   #2446
Jim Cordes
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I don't really understand the minimum either for bonded mud. Lik Davy I have also feathered it down to just before it hits the wet thinset..and never problems. I just don't see an issue. Perhaps its one of those specs geared to architects like ther medium bed standard thingy..idk

someone did mention you can go over slab cracks with mud if you use a membrane..i don't believe that is accepted.and someone can correct me if i am wrong . but any direct bond mud should honor the slab joints membrane or not technically.

Slurry coat.. ive used paint brushes,1/8 inch and 1/4 inch...main thing it stays wet. I dont' like to go thicker then i need due to shrinkage..although i dont think it would hurt much..just becuase. I don't like the idea of flat trowel..I want mechanical bond as well as chemical bond
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Unread 12-07-2014, 10:20 AM   #2447
jwmezzanotte
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J.C.

The drying issue makes sense, I could see that.

But seems to be less so with thinset. Doesnt seem to dry out nearly as quickly as portland slurry would.
The only time I had a bit of a drying out issue was a job where they cranked the heat right up. Should have made them turn it down a few days. Still the mud hardened up pretty good.

Maybe its a good idea to mist the mud with a sprayer in thin areas the next day? Maybe mist all of it?
Anyone tried that or see a reason why not?
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Unread 12-07-2014, 10:35 AM   #2448
jcsa
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Thin Mud

I think all of us with the slabs we have to work on have had differing thicknesses of mud. I will not float a floor less than an inch period. There are times however, when the mud thins because of the slab, we use liquid latex additives and trowel it in on areas that are suspect.

I will be with Tileaz this afternoon and we will discuss this issue and i will report on this more on his perspective.

Jim, what we do is put the membrane on top of the mud. What i have been explained to; is get the membrane as close as you can to the tile as possible. The mud can fracture as long as it does not deflect through the membrane. I am talking about shrinkage cracks, not slab cracks. If the crack is in plane, the membrane should do its job. If it is a structural crack, there isn't anything you can put on the floor that will be guaranteed by the manufacturer. Those are structural issues that need to be addressed before you install anything. Once you install tile no matter the circumstances you have bought the job. Any discrepancy should be addressed before commencing the work. J.C.
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Unread 12-07-2014, 10:49 AM   #2449
eurob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwmezzanotte
Maybe its a good idea to mist the mud with a sprayer in thin areas the next day? Maybe mist all of it?
Anyone tried that or see a reason why not?

Back when I started -- some 25 years ago -- it was recommended to water the mud floors for about 5 to 7 days . Didn't see that requirement anywhere in our days . One thing was for sure , the mud was getting rock solid , like a concrete floor .

Did mud floors from 1/4 to 6'' thick without any issues . Some standards are just not explaining what it takes to make them work , but limit the thickness .
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Unread 12-07-2014, 11:20 AM   #2450
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I think your confusing installation methodolgy with performance requirements. It is not the intention of standards to be a installation training guide.
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Unread 12-07-2014, 06:42 PM   #2451
alex.h
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Usualy concrete slap have tyvex look a like fabric on top of the to contol the cure??

Highway are sprayed with galons and galons of water!
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Unread 12-07-2014, 07:16 PM   #2452
Brad Denny
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I've been known to wet and/or cover a mortar bed with visqueen to slow the cure down, especially when the environment is iffy. \
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Unread 12-08-2014, 06:59 PM   #2453
Jim Cordes
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Im sure it does help the mud cure better by slowing it down. But I have to say I don't do it..for one I want it to set up so I can set tile the next day..two does it really matter if it is another 300 psi or whatever stronger or not, it is still plenty strong enough to set tile on? Heck we set tile on foam so I would say there is plenty psi left to play with.
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Unread 12-08-2014, 07:19 PM   #2454
Brad Denny
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That's a valid point.

I don't normally set tile the next day over a mortar bed. Usually we use an anti-fracture membrane, so the timing wouldn't be right for it the next day anyway.

I will say that aside from the possibility of increased psi performance...in say a crush test...covering the floor, misting, or sprinkling also hardens the surface a little (not too mush water though, you don't want a crust). When doing large areas you won't likely set in one day, it makes sweeping and moving around on the bed much easier and cleaner.
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Unread 12-08-2014, 09:23 PM   #2455
Jim Cordes
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true a harder topping does make things neater. usually what I do is go over the surface with a steel trowel. but hey if you have the time then misting is certainly good practice im not disagreeing about that.
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Unread 12-09-2014, 07:47 PM   #2456
Davy
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Yeah, I slick my mud down with a steel trowel too. If you have enough water in the mix it will bring just a little to the top and give it a crust on top.
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Unread 12-12-2014, 08:07 PM   #2457
Lunastileandstone
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does anybody float and set the same day im from cali and out here most of the track houses that we do are done over scratch coat and we float and set the same day. I have a friend that floats over drywall and then comes back the next day to install the shower
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Unread 12-12-2014, 08:11 PM   #2458
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is it ok to do it this way if the scratch has been drying for a couple of days. thanks in advance for the advice
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Unread 12-12-2014, 08:16 PM   #2459
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Ricardo, go to the top right corner of this thread where you'll see a Search This Thread button. Click on that and type in "same day." You'll find some discussion of the procedure.
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Unread 12-12-2014, 09:16 PM   #2460
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Ricardo I used to float and set the same day. In fact I did it for years. It is an acceptable method, if I am understanding your question correctly.
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