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Unread 04-15-2010, 01:11 PM   #1
Nailgun
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So. Cal wicking

Hello,
I'm about to move from rough in to kerdi installation on my first-ever tiled shower project. I have purchased and read most Tile Your World and the kerdi book. After searching this forum for the answer, I still have a question.
My installation will be over slab on grade. I understand that there can be problems with water wicking through the slab and into a wooden curb.
So here's a question for those with experience in Southern California: Should I worry about wicking, given that it doesn't rain much 'round these parts. I mean, we usually go six months in the summer and fall without a drop of rain. The ground is usually so dry that deep digging needs a soaker hose first.
I figure if I just put some sort of standard sill seal below the wood curb, I should be OK.
Thoughts?
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Unread 04-15-2010, 01:14 PM   #2
bbcamp
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You could probably do that. However, you can use bricks and thinset them to the slab (or use brick mortar) and have no worries what so ever. Just skim coat the bricks with some thinset, smooth out any sharp edges, let cure, then install your Kerdi over the curb as usual.
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Unread 04-15-2010, 05:41 PM   #3
Nailgun
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Excellent

I'll try the bricks. At first it seemed like more work, but if I don't have to do the drywall, and I can just use thinset after putting down my pre-sloped pan, then it should be easy.
Another question: John's kerdi book indicates that I should run my drywall all the way to the bottom plate of the wall. This will push my pre-made 32X60 pan out of alignment. Can I just but the pre-made pan up against the wall plate and then run the sheetrock down until it intersects?
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Unread 04-15-2010, 05:48 PM   #4
dhagin
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The shower receptor needs to be installed according to the manufacturers installation instructions. The drywall would typically overlap the flange and end above the "deck" of the receptor, and the gap caulked...

What kind of receptor? Do you have the install instructs?

edit; or is this a foam Kerdi Tray?
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Unread 04-15-2010, 06:23 PM   #5
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It's a foam Kerdi tray

Sorry about the confusion
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Unread 04-15-2010, 06:32 PM   #6
dhagin
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Yea, you can do that but you still need to get good nailing & backing at the bottom of the drywall. Install blocking between studs if you need to.
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Unread 04-15-2010, 09:03 PM   #7
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Welcome, Paul.

For the record, it's generally not wicking that we're talking about when we describe moisture coming up through slab on grade. Indeed, wicking would indicate an even more serious problem than the actual moisture vapor migration that is usually the problem - if there is a problem.

If you had a vapor barrier installed over the fill under your concrete, chances are you won't have a vapor problem, either.

In any case, it's easy to determine if you have reason to do further testing by simply taping a square of polyethylene sheeting, about two by two feet, to the slab such that the edges are sealed. Duct tape is usually the weapon of choice. If you get visible moisture under there after a couple days, you might be a candidate for further consideration.

I use wood curb armatures all the time in my houses. But using some sort of masonry units may be the safer route where the slab construction is unknown.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 11:27 AM   #8
Nailgun
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You guys

Are amazing. Best DIY forum ever.
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Unread 04-23-2010, 06:21 PM   #9
Nailgun
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corner bead

Hey everyone. Another rookie question that I don't find addressed in the Kerdi book.
How should I handle drywall corners that will be under Kerdi? I have several around a planned niche and also around a window. If I was just dry walling, I would put up metal corner bead. Is this what I should do for the kerdi install as well?
Thanks,
Paul
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Unread 04-23-2010, 06:24 PM   #10
jondon
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Paul I would finish the drywall as you normally would because your kerdi is only as square on the corners as the drywall is.
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Unread 04-23-2010, 06:57 PM   #11
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Paul, I'd disagree a bit with Jon on that. You really don't wanna "finish" any corners, inside nor outside, that are to be covered with Kerdi. I personally like my outside corners knocked down a but so the Kerdi doesn't have bend over a sharp corner at all.

Your tile ain't gonna care that the corner's rounded off a bit. Your tile will care if your corner's built up even a little bit.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-23-2010, 07:21 PM   #12
Nailgun
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OK CX wins

I think it's the top hat that convinced me. Thanks again for your help.
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Unread 04-26-2010, 10:50 AM   #13
Nailgun
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Spaces between deck and wall

Searched for this in the forums but didn't find anything.
I'm about to start installing my Kerdi, and am wondering how big a gap Kerdi band can span?
I have about a quarter-inch to a half-inch gap between the floor and the drywall in some areas. Can I just span this with kerdi band, or should I fill the gap with caulk, construction adhesive or some other goop?
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Unread 04-26-2010, 11:51 AM   #14
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Since you're using loose mortar to set Kerdi, filling larger gaps as you go will be problematic. About 1/4 or less, just fill as you go with thinset mortar. Over 1/4, pre-fill with thinset mortar and let it set up before covering. Mix it stiff for pre-filling.

For very large gaps you can use 'mason's mix' or 'mortar mix' and let it set up before covering as well.
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Unread 04-27-2010, 10:17 AM   #15
Nailgun
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Why, why must the thinset get looser and looser?

Had my first Kerdi hanging experience last night. Used Laticrete 272. No matter how thick I mixed it, the stuff would just get light and creamy enough to drip off the trowel.
What am I doing wrong? Is it typical for a batch of thinset to get steadily looser as it sits in the mixing bucket? I thought mortar was supposed to get stiffer with the passage of time.
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