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Unread 06-02-2021, 12:16 PM   #46
fabian55
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Okay, so I read the instructions of RG and seems it does bond directly to the metal and my mistake would be as you guys mentioned, using it as an adhesive with the fabric membrane as RG should not be used as adhesive.

I'm adding the fabric as an additional layer of protection but might not be good direct with RG, the more correct way would be using the Modified thinset as the Adhesive with the fabric and then RG over it...
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Unread 06-02-2021, 12:32 PM   #47
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Fabian,

Not that I've tried but I'm almost certain no mortar is going to adhere to that stainless steel flange in any lasting way. Nor do I think RG will.

Aside from the adhesion of the mortar to the SS, the steel is going to go through an expansion and contraction cycle every time that shower is used, and that cycling may well be enough to break whatever tenuous bond might exist.

RG would be better in that regard, as it can stretch a bit. But I just don't think it will stick well enough to the SS. You could test it, I suppose, by cleaning the inside of the drain assembly then brushing on a coat of RG. Let it dry, then see how easy it peals off.

If I were trying this with that drain assembly I'd probably use a seriously sticky and water proof adhesive like Kerdi Fix.
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Unread 06-02-2021, 12:43 PM   #48
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ss3964spd, Thank You, that really helps, so I can put the fabric membrane, I just need to use a special adhesive as you mentioned and not RG or Mortar..

Really appreciate the clarification..
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Unread 06-29-2021, 05:21 PM   #49
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Hello, recovered from my knee damages while doing the floor mud and back at it again. Replaced the shower valve and added the layer of thinset to level out some low spots.

But I have an issue now that I see the floor with the thinset. Based on the picture, the right side where the level is, slopes and is even to the drain, from the left of that, the floor slopes toward the left wall instead down to the drain. If you see the top right of floor, its slopes left and downwards and is not level.

How can i fix this? I can not tear the floor out and redo, will any of these options work?

1: Pour floor leveling concrete to fill in slope toward the wall. If this works, will it grab on to the thinset I just added if the thinset is already dry or do I need another thin layer for the new concrete. Will the concrete crack or is it hard enough like the floor mud?

2: I don't pour the concrete and when I start tiling, from left to right, I add more thinset to the floor and the back and less toward the right side till its level..My only concern with this method is the water that gets thru the tile would slope towards the left wall and just sit there. I do already have a layer of thinset so not sure if it would be too much thinset and will crack

3: Add more thinset now on top of this layer to level it out before waterproofing instead of leveling while tiling. This one seems best but thinset layer would be thick, not sure if it would crack due to thickness.

My shower is on a concrete slab so Im not concerned about leaking down, just concerned about Mold, water sitting against the wall etc...

Thank You much..
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Unread 06-29-2021, 06:44 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabian
If you see the top right of floor, its slopes left and downwards and is not level.
Once again, Fabian, you do not want any level areas in your shower floor. You want a floor that is flat and that slopes from the perimeter of the shower floor at a minimum of 1/4" per horizontal foot to the shower drain. You absolutely must achieve that for your shower to perform correctly.
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Originally Posted by Fabian
I can not tear the floor out and redo,..
Of course you can, and that's just what you should do. Deck mud is one of the easiest material in the industry with which to work and one of the very few that allows you create the exact shape and thickness of mortar for a properly sloped shower floor. And it's by far the least costly. Call your first attempt practice and make another mortar bed that is correctly shaped for your shower floor. It will pay off in spades come time to tile the shower and even more come time to use the shower.

1. If you're talking about a self-leveling compound, see the first sentence of this post. You just spinning your wheels trying to make a proper shower floor from what you've got.

2. See above.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 06-29-2021, 07:07 PM   #51
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CX, thanks for the reply..I really can not redo / tear this out. Firstly, it would take me a while based on my schedule and I also had to mix all 8 bags of floor mud 3 at a time / do the floor myself which is one of the reasons it dried up on me in some places..

Ideally, yes, that would be the best, what would be the second best option? Fill the left side of the floor with thinset and create the slope towards the drain?
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Unread 06-29-2021, 08:55 PM   #52
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What would be a reasonable price if I tear out the floor myself, buy the materials and just have a professional put the mud and slope it correctly, nothing else, just that potion, I'm in Florida Thank you
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Unread 06-29-2021, 09:23 PM   #53
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It would be helpful if you'd add that geographic location to your User Profile, Damien.

I have no idea what it might cost. Biggest problem would likely be finding someone who would do it.
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Unread 06-29-2021, 09:42 PM   #54
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Thank you CX, yeah, might be tough finding someone for just that..ill make some calls and ill post the prices I got..
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