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Unread 04-16-2022, 04:44 AM   #61
gcc
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Window and pipe

Making progress - a few Kerdi fix questions…

1. Can I use Kerdi fix as a construction adhesive between plywood and cement block? (I’ll use tapcons as well)

2. Do I have to use mechanical fasteners to attach the 4” (estimated) strips of Kerdi board to the plywood around the window jamb/sil or is Kerdi fix enough to bind them?

3. When I seal the Kerdi board to the window it will be at a change of plane. Do I just run a bead of it around like I would caulk? Is Kerdi fix a waterproof sealant or a bonding agent or both?

Thanks!


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Unread 04-16-2022, 07:10 AM   #62
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1. I’d say it won’t be optimal. Recommend Locktite PL 3X; superior performance and much cheaper. Could skip the tapcon screws too and avoid the problem of ensuring the heads are flush to surface.



2. I vote for fasteners

3. Put a bead of the sealant at the point of contact between the window and kerdi board. Push into place and and use putty knife to smooth excess into corners
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Unread 04-16-2022, 09:50 AM   #63
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1. I agree with PC on the Pl Premium.

2. I would use the PL Premium there, too. Without mechanical fasteners if the pieces can be held in place without them 'till the adhesive begins to cure.

3. I would put the Kerdi Fix on the edge of the KerdiBoard before I put it in place. I believe it's advertised for both sealing and bonding and I've found it to be useful in both applications.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-16-2022, 10:27 AM   #64
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Good suggestion on using PL premium for item 2, CX. Missed that one.

Greg - Only caution when using the PL Premium is it sticks as tenaciously to hand and tools as it does to working surfaces. Be sure to release the caulk gun pressure after use and put on drywall bucket or such to contain and excess that comes out of tube. Typically only a issue with the large 28oz tubes but worth noting.
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Unread 04-16-2022, 10:53 AM   #65
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And even after releasing the pressure on the gun, product will still ooze out of the tube. Possibly my only complaint with the stuff. Good for PL sales; not good for PL users.
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Unread 04-16-2022, 12:46 PM   #66
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Ok thanks. 2 tubes of Kerdi fix came with the shower kit so I have them already and wasn’t sure what to use them for. It doesn’t sound like I will be using them for much.


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Unread 04-16-2022, 01:08 PM   #67
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If you have Kerdi Fix that will otherwise go unused, Greg, it will bond the KerdiBoard in all the applications you describe. I would be more comfortable using the construction adhesive at least for bonding to the plywood to the CMU, but Kerdi Fix might work. Up to you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-17-2022, 02:31 PM   #68
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Ok thanks -

1. If I use the Kerdi-fix with the Kerdi board - plywood bond, would you recommend we find screws to fit those Kerdi washers as well or is the Kerdi fix enough?

2. Back to the mud bed - since I can’t find the actual sand to cement mix for that Sand stopping mix, it looks like we will get a bag of cement and some bags of sand and mix using quart buckets or cups or something. 5 scoops of sand to one scoop of cement. The question is - between the three sands available, do you recommend play sand, all purpose sand, or leveling sand?

Thanks,
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Unread 04-25-2022, 08:42 PM   #69
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Hi all,

In doing some more research I found the following:


So according to the safety data sheet, that Sakrete Sand Mix is 76.10% Quartz, 18.91% Portland Cement, 1% limestone, 1% calcium oxide.

Whether we go this route, or just do scoops of cement and sand, I need to add sand. These are the choices at the big orange store:


Or



Which do you recommend?

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Greg


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Unread 05-15-2022, 09:30 PM   #70
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Hi all -

Moving forward with project. Going to use Schluter Jolly around the window and niche. We brought the tile to the store to test out the sizes. Guy at F&D recommended the 1/2” size. I thought 3/8” may have worked but went with 1/2” to give me extra room just in case. Turns out, the tile specs say the tile is 7mm. That is just slightly bigger than 1/4”. It’s a 6 x 12 tile. 5/16 would probably have been just right or maybe a little tight. 3/8” probably would have been plenty big enough. It’s probably not possible to answer this without having the tile in hand but Is 1/2” going to be too big or can I make that work?

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Unread 05-16-2022, 11:02 AM   #71
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Are you talking about trowel notch sizes, Greg?

My experience with advice from employees at F&D (only on here, I've never visited one) is that it's similar to asking advice from people in orange vests.
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Unread 05-16-2022, 07:24 PM   #72
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Lol - that’s the truth. I should have known better but not having a lot of experience with using those Schluter profiles, I wasn’t sure. The wall tile is 7 mm which is .28 of an inch thick. The Schluter profile comes in different sizes to accommodate different thicknesses of tile. 5/16, 3/8, 1/2”. I wasn’t sure about leaving room for thinset. Got home and did some more research and apparently Schluter recommends matching the tile to the size unless it is a LFT that requires a thicker notch trowel. I probably should have gone with the 3/8 size profile but went with 1/2”. I was wondering if those out there with more experience with these had any thoughts or opinions about using the 1/2” profile size. I have a call in to Schluter to see if it is a workable thing or not.

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Unread 05-17-2022, 12:40 PM   #73
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Just in case anyone wondered - Schluter confirmed it is too big. They recommended the 5/16 size profile for a 7mm tile.


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Unread 05-17-2022, 08:37 PM   #74
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Hi all -

Tile saw blade question: I have a Rigid Wet Saw - I bought it about 5 years ago and have used it for two rooms of floor tile and 2 bathrooms. It came with a Rigid tile blade. I’m pretty sure it is a diamond blade.

This is the one I have:


Is there anything I should do to keep the blade sharp? I saw Sal’s video about sawing through a rubbing stone to sharpen it. I’ve also read about sawing through a cinder block to help keep it sharp.


1. Does that stuff only work for better, more expensive blades?

2. Would sawing through a paver work?

I’m not necessarily having any issues but I want to keep it sharp.

Thanks,
Greg
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Unread 05-18-2022, 06:50 AM   #75
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Yup, a paver, a plain old brick, or a stone made specifically for dressing diamond blades.

At some point though any blade will need to be replaced. Don't know how many miles you have on your blade, and I don't imagine the blade that came with that saw is of the highest quality. Nevertheless, if it is producing a good clean cut then dressing it might be all that's needed.
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