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Unread 02-19-2022, 09:29 PM   #46
Ande8414
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Hi!

Kevin and Addy, how have your Goboard with Kerdi tray projects been going? I'd be forever grateful to see and talk more about how it went for you. After reading your posts about doing that combination earlier, I couldn't help thinking it seemed brilliant and the kerdi membrane does sound like a pain. Not to mention I need a 48" and 60" curb and my kit came with two 38" curbs, so I returned it tonight and excited to switch gears back to the goboard with kerdi tray. Some of my random curiosities at the moment if these came up for you all?

1. 4' x 8' sheets of goboard appear hard to find. Is it worth it to save seams and I'll wait? Or who cares and stick with 3' x 5' sheets?
2. Is there a best poly sealant for the goboard seams?
3. Love the extra aquadefense idea. When rolling the aquadefense over, did you do the entire shower space or just over the transition from kerdi base up to the goboard?
4. Anyone done a corner with the curbs? Miter them?

THANK YOU SO MUCH!
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Unread 02-20-2022, 12:05 AM   #47
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Robbie,
I bought GoBoard for my shower project but it flexed when screwed in because my walls not perfectly plumb. I returned a few unused sheets and bought Permabase WP (waterproof) backer because it's rigid and waterproof as well. but it's hard to find...I had to call mfg to find a local seller. However, if you decide to use the GoBoard, I suggest buying 5" wide band and applying over the seams using GoBoard Sealant.

I tested applying a piece of kerdi on GoBoard using the GoBoard sealant and worked fantastic. Also, a lot less messier and less time involved than trying to squish out the thinset between the band and the board. Also, the sealant should last many more years than using a liquid membrane.

I don't think mesh tape on seams it is needed as one poster suggested. You can also use the GoBoard sealant for the screw heads. Using a dimple attachment on your drill will prevent over driving the screws.

Regarding your pics, if you plan on installing the GoBoard:

1) Vertically: You should install a row of blocking between each stud at the base so it's 3 - 4 inches higher than your pan.

2) Horizontally: Same as #1, plus a row between each backer at the seams.

Regarding your last questions:
1) My opinion is that it's not much add'l work/expense to seal/tape 3x5 boards.
2) Approved GoBoard Sealants: https://www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/gl...alant-List.pdf. I suggest using the GoBoard sealant.
3) You mentioned in one of your 1st posts about applying kerdi on GoBoard and in your last one applying aquadefense over entire board...GoBoard is 100% waterproof so it makes no sense to add an add'l layer of waterproofing.
4) No experience with that.
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Unread 02-20-2022, 05:58 PM   #48
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Thank you, Mike!

Many invaluable details. I hadn't heard of the extra blocking idea at the base and seams which sounds smart. I also haven't heard of adding 5" kerdi band to the Goboard seams. Did you widen the sealant to 2.5" on each side and smooth/squish it out underneath and add some to the top edges also? Also seems like a good idea for the goboard corner to the Kerdi base, or stick with their allset for that base transition?

The adding of aquadefense mentioned earlier by both Kevin and Addy seemed like a cool idea as both extra insurance/peace of mind but also because it sounds like the goboard wicks the moisture from thinset quickly and doesn't allow as much time for setting tiles. Seemed like a win win but wondered how much they used and if anyone else has done it.

Thank you!
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Unread 02-21-2022, 03:59 AM   #49
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Robbie,
The mfg instructions say all that's necessary for the seams is applying bead of sealant between them and extend 1" on each side. I just used Kerdi as extra layer with 2.5" of sealant on each side and smoothed it out.

I applied only sealant to top edge at the ceiling without any band.

I do not understand your question: "Also seems like a good idea for the goboard corner to the Kerdi base, or stick with their allset for that base transition?"...clarify.

I did not apply a liquid membrane to the GoBoard and rhere were no issues with tile adhering to it with thinset. If there was a problem with adhering/moisture/wicking without applying liquid membrane, the mfg would of recommended applying it in their installation instructions.

During the course of my project, I tested applying different materials to backer and/or tile and sticking in bucket of water...like I did with a piece of kerdi band to backer with GoBoard sealant. So, I suggest you do the same with applying liquid membrane to a piece of the backer and then apply some thinset and a piece of tile and do the same without the liquid membrane...put both in a bucket of water and compare adhesiveness of both.

Here is link to detail installation instructions of GoBoard:

https://www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/gl...Step-Guide.pdf

If you haven't done so already, take a level and make sure the studs are plumb both horizontally and vertically...if not, you may wind up tearing it all out like I did because the GoBoard will flex in uneven areas. After you install the GoBoard, verify it's level by placing your level vertically/horizontally against the boards and look to see if any gaps between the board and the level.

Other tips,
1) I suggest sistering add'l 2x4's to exsisting ones where your shower door/walls to be connected to walls so there's no 2nd guessing where studs located when either brackets or channels for glass connected to the walls.

2) Take pics of rough in when completed and record measurements of locations of studs/blocking.

3) I suggest installing blocking between the studs for accessories like grab bars, towel bars, etc. so will have secure backing.

4) If you plan on installing any accessories, ask your glass installer if he will drill holes in tile for them.
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Unread 02-21-2022, 09:24 AM   #50
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Robbie,

If you are going to use a membrane band material, like Kerdi Band, I'd recommend you install it using thinset mortar. IMO, you'll get better, more consistent coverage with mortar than you will with applying multiple beads of whatever adhesive/sealant you choose, and the mortar will be less expensive.

Heed Mike's advice on getting the wall studs as flat, plumb, and in plane as you possibly can. Any wall board you use, when properly fastened to the studs, will follow any waviness there is. As long as you follow the wall board manufacturers recommendation for stud spacing any wall board flex between the studs is a non-issue.
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Unread 02-22-2022, 12:18 AM   #51
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Thank you, Mike! Thank you, Dan!

Much appreciated ideas, thoughts, and insight. Yes me earlier comment was confusing but I was thinking about the transition from Goboard wall to the Kerdi base and if you mixed sealing methods on the kerdi band or stuck with one or the other. Seems like the thinset is a good way to go. I'm not sure how to ping Kevin and Addy specifically but wonder if anyone knows if they have their own separate threads for how their experience went. Thanks so much!
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Unread 02-23-2022, 08:39 AM   #52
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Robbie,

The GB installation instructions for showers contains the following statement:

When the sealant becomes tacky after approximately 20 minutes, cover the sealed board joints and fastener locations with optional GoBoard Seam fabric to reinforce the seal especially at the change of plane between the walls and shower pan. Gently embed the fabric smoothing out all wrinkles or air pockets.

I think it is poorly written because it could be interpreted that covering the seams with their fabric is optional. My interpretation is that the fabric is optional in that it is not provided with a Go Board purchase, must be purchased separately. Could be wrong, natch, and a call to their tech line would clear it up.

Interestingly, JM makes no mention of using mortar for the seams in a shower application, but they do mention it for walls outside of a shower.

Nevertheless, the corner(s) and wall/floor changes of plane are critical. We know Schluter wants Kerdi band there, installed using mortar. We know mortar will stick to GB just fine. I'd be comfortable using Kerdi band and mortar for all those seaming needs. You might consider using the Kerdi pre-formed inside and outside corners.

Mix your thinset mortar a little loose to prevent excessive build up.
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Unread 05-14-2022, 01:50 PM   #53
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Dan, Mike, you're all the best. I can't thank you enough. Sorry once again for disappearing for a while. Working on some plumbing rough ins, working too much, excuses excuses. I think I'll try the goboard sealant and skip the "optional" seam fabric (for goboard to goboard) but definitely kerdi band and preformed corners at the transition to the base. Once I get my studs all flat and true to each other I'm hoping to start that soon. New but maybe old question: tiling around the freestanding tub. I think I've decided we should tile around this roughly 4' section for possible tub splashes. Did you guys say earlier to avoid greenboard? Stick with regular drywall and tile to that? Please and thanks so much!
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Unread 05-15-2022, 07:25 AM   #54
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Or should I rip out the vapor barrier and then do drywall plus aquadefense/redguard?
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Unread 05-15-2022, 11:21 AM   #55
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Robbie, if your intent is to waterproof the walls, you cannot do that with either product you mentioned over gypsum drywall. Only Schluter and, I think now, Laticrete make a sheet-type waterproofing membrane rated for such application.

You could continue with your GoBoard, I think. I'm not at all familiar with their installation instructions nor whether it would suit your application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-16-2022, 06:52 AM   #56
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Thank you, CX! That makes sense. I guess I could just continue the goboard around, or cement board with some paint on waterproofer but probably stay consistent. Is it okay to switch in the middle of the wall on the horizontal? From that 4' ledge wall down would be goboard or otherwise, and above it is vapor barrier with drywall.
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Unread 05-16-2022, 10:45 AM   #57
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You can make that change in material any place you like, so long as you use something other than gypsum drywall any place you intend to be a wet area.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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