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Unread 09-05-2010, 08:57 PM   #1
eokie1
Jim in JAX, FLA
 
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NOOB, need shower curb advice.....

I have a 1962 home, in Dayton, OH, has small master bath, has been leaking, since we moved in, circa 2005......we finally mustered the $$$ and spirit to attack the issue..... THIS IS MY FIRST POST.....so be gentle......I have already been helped, by your GREAT site !!!! I am going to try to attach a pic, the tile on the floor of the bath, appears to be circa 1962, but the previous owners had it re-tiled, but appear to have had the worked STOP, at the entry to the shower......the entire bathroom, was adorned with a very 1962-ish pale blue "flecked" tile, and I suspect they just didn't want to pay the $$$$$$ to replace all of it...... from what I can see, the 3 walls have Durock, or similar cement backer board, that they are attached to...... But, on the inside of the curb, there is NOTHING, no galvanized pan, nothing....???? the corner bead on the drywall was VERY rusted, not much left, of the bottom 6" or so..... this would likely have had a galvanized, or metal pan, at the date of construction...??? Anyway, I am just trying to figure out what to do, remove lower 1' or so of tiles, and put in a liner, or what.....?????? THANKS for any help !!!Name:  2010 09 05 shower curb_smaller.jpg
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Unread 09-05-2010, 09:00 PM   #2
Deckert
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I'd remove it all and build it fresh from scratch. There isn't a great way to tie the wall and pan waterproofing together in a "half rebuild". Also, no telling what else is done wrong. Plus, you'll never get a better chance to get everything up to par at once.

No to mention, removing everything gives you a chance to repair any damaged framing, add blocking where needed/desired, move supply lines, swap out the trap and drain, put in a new shower valve, raise the shower head to a more comfortable height, etc, etc.
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Unread 09-05-2010, 09:40 PM   #3
eokie1
Jim in JAX, FLA
 
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trying to get out, easiest GOOD route.....

the tile, INSIDE the shower, is in VERY good shape, I am guessing, it was done not too long before we moved in (4/2005), the shower valve ( Moen, single handle) is in good shape, as is the shower head. Could I just remove the lower 2 or 3 courses of tile, and all the floor tile (and the bed below it ???) and attach shower pan liner ( or ???) to get by ....... I am possibly moving, soon, for a job transfer, so am trying to save $$$$, but don't want to screw the next owner, either...... !!!

THANKS for the assistance !!!

If there was a GOOD tile guy, in the (south-of) Dayon, oH area, I would pay him, for his time, for some technical guidance.......???

Jim Jensen
Centerville, OH (just south of Dayton, OH)
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Unread 09-05-2010, 11:56 PM   #4
Deckert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim
If there was a GOOD tile guy, in the (south-of) Dayon, oH area, I would pay him, for his time, for some technical guidance.......???
You can get all the technical guidance you need here for free, and put that $$ toward building a proper shower.

The problem with trying to re-do just the bottom portion of that shower is that there isn't a great way to tie the new pan and waterproofing into the existing walls.

If you are dead set on only doing the bottom of the shower, then you could cut out the bottom 12"-16" of your walls and demo out your floor. Put in a pre slope. Put in a liner. CBU the bottom of the walls. Lathe and mud the curb. Put in a mortar bed. Then tile/grout/seal. (Assumes the drain is ok to accept a liner).
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Unread 09-06-2010, 12:25 AM   #5
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Welcome, Jim.

What Brannigan said.

There's just no really effective way to change out a shower pan and tie the new one into the waterproofing in the old walls. If any.

Far better, and frequently easier, to tear out the whole thing and do it over correctly. Then you don't hafta be concerned at all for at least the next thirty years or so. Longer if you do a really good job.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-06-2010, 07:45 PM   #6
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Jim in JAX, FLA
 
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progress report.....

OK, I demo-hammered the mosaic tile off, and started trying to chip up the shower base........it feels like it is concrete ??? Is that possible, in 1962 home, in Ohio ??? I am trying to use a 1" SDS rotary hammer drill, and it chipped the tile off, VERY well, but it is not doing much, on the base....... Maybe I will need to rent a real jackmammer ???? any advice, APPRECIATED !!!!

What the previous tile guy did was, installed 2 layers of cement board, stacked, probably replacing drywall, which put the NEW tile, well out onto the old mosaic tile (1" tiles) ......it seems to have worked well, as all the part that was replaced, does not seem to have leaked, one bit......only beside the door, where they left the original drywall and tile, did it leak..... previous owner cheaped-out????

Jim in Centerville, OH (s. of Dayton)
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Unread 09-06-2010, 07:49 PM   #7
eokie1
Jim in JAX, FLA
 
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correcting previous post.....

that is not completely correct...this is a 36" x 36" shower, with an angled door, cutting the 36" x 36" square (neo-angle shower....??) they put all new TILE on the ENTIRE INSIDE of the shower, except for the tiles on the inside of the curb, under tho door....??? But, for a 1 1/2 " strip, on each side of the door, they tiled over OLD drywall, did not install cement board........ THAT is what started leaking.....

THANKS !!!
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Unread 09-07-2010, 08:24 PM   #8
eokie1
Jim in JAX, FLA
 
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CURRENT state of progress.....

I uploaded high-res pics to Photobucket, so hopefully, someone can give me some advice....??

http://s788.photobucket.com/albums/y...%2009_07_2010/


I have a cheapie Harbor Freight 1" sds hammer drill, it is NOT doing too well, on chipping up this shower base, it seems to be made of concrete ???? Or, maybe I just need a "real" jackhammer, or higher quality bits ???

here is a wide view, of the status, as of tonight:
Attached Images
 
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Unread 09-07-2010, 08:32 PM   #9
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Jim, we'd really prefer you'd attach your photos to your post here so they become a permanent part of your thread. Those photobucket-type links have a very irritating habit of going away after a while and rendering your thread moot for future visitors.

Don't know what to tell you about your tear-out. If the shower pan were properly constructed you'd have no real trouble breaking it up even with that little hammer.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 08:58 PM   #10
eokie1
Jim in JAX, FLA
 
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need bigger hammer ???

So, I just should get a bigger jackhammer, to demo the base, I guess ??? OK, just didn't want to resize them so small, in case someone wanted to look at higher quality pic, for the details....

I don't get much done, each day, as I have to quit at 8:30 or so, for kids bedtime. (after working 8 or 10 hours at my REAL job, of course....) I am in IT department, of a large regional bank

Thanks !!!
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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:16 PM   #11
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Jim in JAX, FLA
 
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close up of the drain, that I was TRYING to chip up around....

close up of the drain, that I was TRYING to chip up around....
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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:25 PM   #12
matman
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Jim, that shower pan is chipping like concrete like maybe it is concrete. Is that shower floor a continuation of the slab that I see outside the shower?

If the floor is that solid preslope right off of that.
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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:32 PM   #13
eokie1
Jim in JAX, FLA
 
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but, I need to get a new drain, right .....??

Don't I need to get to the drain, to make sure I can attach a new one, to clamp to membrane ??? ( I am very confused, just learning this stuff....)

THANKS !!
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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:35 PM   #14
eokie1
Jim in JAX, FLA
 
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sorry, answer to your question

No, the shower floor is about 2 or 2 1/2" higher, than the concrete slab it is on....but, I am beginning to think it IS poured concrete.....the curb look like it is concrete, as well....
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Unread 09-07-2010, 09:49 PM   #15
matman
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Does that existing flange have weep holes in it or is it a single stage flange, no weep holes, for the screw in strainer?
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