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09-24-2007, 01:49 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 32
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I used my ac powered drill and it worked pretty well. Every once in a while I'd have to back one out half way then screw it back in to get it flush but thats it.
Hotmop guy came today. I hope that stink comes out of the bedroom. Jeez. I also give the hotmop guy maybe another ten years to live. Those fumes are nasty and his face is right in it breathing it in. His lungs must be hotmopped by now.
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09-24-2007, 02:44 PM
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#17
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AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
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Being in SoCal, I decided it was good enough reason to learn how to install a mud bed. Glad I did. I think once you have it all covered with tile, you'll be O.K.
Brian
__________________
Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
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09-25-2007, 05:26 AM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wilmington, Delaware
Posts: 987
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Rent or buy a Makita coil roofing nailer. You will never go by hand or high screw again.
Lots of times my senco just did not go all the way. OK, i do get an occasional high nail but it is very consistant. Batt drives do not seem to have the snot considering there is frequently differing density in some wood sub surfaces.
When done whatever fastener I use I slide a building square or 16" spackle knife over the surface for clicks.
tt
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09-28-2007, 05:54 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 32
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Crap I'm Screwed!!
I just had my shower hotmopped. I made sure there was room around the perimeter for the hotmop then the mud which will go up 18 inches then meet by backerboard. EXCEPT at the entrance where I did not allow room where it goes vertical. So the hotmopper came in and put on a thick enough layer to where there's no room for mud to go on and still be flush with the backer board above. In fact the tar reaches farther out than the backer board itself even if there wouldnt be mud.
I hope the pics help. what is not shown is that the vertical entrance piece is a 4x4 ripped diagonally, and behind it on the inside the lower wall is set back 1.5 inch. The reason for the 4x4 like that is that the entrance walls were 90 degrees off from each other originally, so I had to change that to be able to install a door later.
So I figure I have 4 options:
1. rip out the hotmop (really dont want to). May include resetting the drain then another $280 for hotmop again.
2. shave the hotmop back, maybe cutting it out at that point, cut back the wood .5-1 inch then repair the hotmop (will it be waterproof then?).
3. Fur out the 4 walls and inch or so to where there's enough room for mud over the hotmop. This would most likely require the plumber to reset the depth of my new valve. I dont think there's enough play to not need it adjusted.
4. Just thought of this. Maybe I can shave just a little of the hotmop on that edge to get the backer board down to the floor just in those 2 spots on entrances, then mud the rest as planned. There should still be some tar there and the plastic that will be under the backerboard.
5. Run away and join the circus
Thanks for your help, Mike
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09-28-2007, 08:23 PM
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#20
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Remodeling and Tile Contractor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 2,113
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I'd be comfortable shaving a bit off the hot mop in that one area as long as you don't go down over the curb, and overlap your plastic down over it like you mentioned.
You might also call the guy who did the hotmop and tell him your having problems with his buildup, and see if you can work out a deal where he comes back and hits any areas you need to shave.
__________________
Brannigan
Facilities Manager, TPC Snoqualmie Ridge
Reformed Remodeler and C54 Tile Contractor
HeenanGC.com
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09-29-2007, 12:59 AM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 32
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thanks, Deckert. I'm confident I can shave some off without touching the curb. It'll be touch and go though. He did make it thick. He used 4 or 5 layers of tar paper.
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09-29-2007, 11:46 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: nor cal
Posts: 77
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Use square head Backer On screws with a impact driver. Impact driver is the ticket...
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09-30-2007, 02:25 PM
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 32
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Any other opinions on my hotmop issue?
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09-30-2007, 11:55 PM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: nor cal
Posts: 77
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shave or cut it down and have your hot mopper fix it up for you. I have a pretty good rep with my guy, I've known him since we were kids. Your guy should have no problem helping out, because when your good and busy he's busy...
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10-03-2007, 06:23 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: orange county, ca
Posts: 92
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You can cut out that area with a razor blade, and have your hot mopper come and patch the area. Would be no problem, and good as new! What caused that bow? Was there a vent pipe there? My name is mark by the way!
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10-03-2007, 06:35 PM
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#26
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Making Cents of It All
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Menifee , California
Posts: 4,603
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If I was doing that shower . I would unscrew some of that Hardi Backer and get some roofing paper under there and wrap it to the outside over the transition of the hot mop . Wire it and float it out to plumb done deal .
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