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09-17-2007, 10:10 PM
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#16
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Dan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OC, Ca
Posts: 61
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ckl111, I wanted to put the door hinged on left but the valve is on the far right and it would make it difficult to turn the valve on without actually getting in the shower instead of opening door and turing on water if the valve is re-located to left side by the elecrical panel. It's hard to tell by the pics but, I only have about 12" from tiolet to shower gap.
Good point on centering drain. I guess it's time to get out the sledge hammer....
Thanks,
Dan
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09-17-2007, 10:30 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 5,383
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Dan - that configuration is very common in my neck of the woods. Best door is either double bypass sliders or shower curtain. I spent too many hours trying to figure out how to make something else work, but it always came back to those. We've got a curtain up for now while we contemplate which doors.
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-art-
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"The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people, it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government -- lest it come to dominate our lives and interests."
Patrick Henry
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03-21-2008, 09:07 PM
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#18
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Dan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OC, Ca
Posts: 61
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I wanted to update my bath remodel. I haven't posted any pics for a while so here's some updated progress. I have learned alot from this forum and want to thank everyone. If u see any area's for concern please chime in and give me some help. I will be asking for some reasurance here too. I will begin tiling soon and I'm sure I will be asking all u pros out in TYW.
Thanks,
Dan
Last edited by Dano382; 03-21-2008 at 10:06 PM.
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03-22-2008, 08:06 AM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 4,891
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just a question.... in looking at your nailing pattern on the walls......... were the studs that close together or was there solid backing? Hammy
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Kitchen & Bath Makeovers
T & J Construction Services
Manchester, TN 37355
Professionally Built Mold - Mildew - Moisture Resistant Showers
Using Laticrete & Schluter Products
Click here to Visit us on Face Book
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03-22-2008, 08:26 AM
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#20
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Moderator emeritus
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 96,740
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Flood test that pan, Dan, that should make you more confident.
Well, if it doesn't leak it will.
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03-22-2008, 05:28 PM
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#21
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Dan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OC, Ca
Posts: 61
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Hammy, I added alot of extra 2x4's to make sure it was alot more rigid. Everything was screwed together with dry wall screws.
CX,
What do u mean it will leak? Are u seeing someplace I screwd up on? Don't make me worry anymore then I am.
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03-22-2008, 05:49 PM
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#22
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Illinois Flooring Man
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: morris il
Posts: 1,147
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Smarty pants cx.
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Jay
give me thin set or give me death!!!
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03-23-2008, 01:08 AM
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#23
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Dan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OC, Ca
Posts: 61
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CX,
Can u change the title of this post to dano's bath project. I will update the rest of the project from here till it's complete.
Thanks...
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03-23-2008, 07:58 PM
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#24
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Dan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OC, Ca
Posts: 61
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Should I Ditra my floor. Area is 5'x5', 20" porcelain going in. Or just make sure floor is prepped good and lay tile directly on cement.
Thanks CX for changing title of thread.
Dano
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03-23-2008, 09:27 PM
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#25
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Illinois Flooring Man
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: morris il
Posts: 1,147
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Setting on Ditra will offer a little piece of mind if there is any MINOR cracking down the line.
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Jay
give me thin set or give me death!!!
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03-24-2008, 11:41 AM
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#26
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Dan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OC, Ca
Posts: 61
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I am planning on using pebble on floor. I know alot of people when tiling start on the second row of tile. How should I approach starting the walls? Field tiles will be 13x13 then a glass border mid level and then 6" in a diamond pattern then two more rows of 13" to the cieling.
Dano
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03-24-2008, 08:10 PM
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#27
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Illinois Flooring Man
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: morris il
Posts: 1,147
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Start your wall layout on the floor, glass tile, then six, then 13, then turn to the bottom layout, making very accurate measurements, then transferring to the wall. With pebble tile on the floor, I would take the walls to the floor, setting the pebbles to the walls, not the walls to the pebbles.
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Jay
give me thin set or give me death!!!
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03-25-2008, 08:41 AM
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#28
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Dan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OC, Ca
Posts: 61
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Jay,
Kinda thru me for a loop. Are u saying lay out my field tiles on the floor to see how I want it before installing?
I made my center line on the far wall and I see that centering the tile on that line makes for the biggest end cuts.
So I should start with the bottom row of tile butted to the floor and when It's time to do floor I just butt pebble against tile correct? Not pebble under the tile?
Also, I have been wondering if the way I laid the kirdy is ok. I installed floor with 2.5" going up each wall and curb. I then Installed walls overlapping that floor piece. Then installed my my inside corners.
I shouldn't need kerdi band over my floor to wall overlap again should I?
P.S. You can see floor pics in prior post.
Thanks for helping.
Dano
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03-25-2008, 04:07 PM
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#29
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Illinois Flooring Man
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: morris il
Posts: 1,147
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As long as you have a 2" overlap at all seams, Schluter will be happy, it doesn't matter how you achieve it. I had you lay it out that way because you would normally have your listells at a specific height (assuming the glass was being used as a listell), then you would cut the bottom tile at the floor, then the top tile at the ceiling, having no cuts that meet another tile except in the corners, if you lay it out this way, you can then make level lines in the shower all the way around, starting wherever you want knowing the tile will layout on the wall the way you want it. It's much better not to have any suprizes when doing a shower. Yes and then I would cut the pebble floor to the walls, it might be too difficult to scribe the walls to the floor.
__________________
Jay
give me thin set or give me death!!!
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04-16-2008, 08:23 AM
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#30
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Dan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: OC, Ca
Posts: 61
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Glass border ?
Needs some insight on oceanside glass tile border. Issue is my field tiles are 3/8 thick, glass is 1/4 thick. How should I go about building up thinset to bring glass level with front of tile?
Currently using laticrete 317 for field tile. I bought 254R for glass tile. Should I, or is it ok to build up thickness with the 317 then come back and set glass with 254R on top of 317, or should I just start the build up and set tile with 254R? I already have some 317 on wall in the area of glass due to floating the seams of kerdi for a more level surface.
Talked with Oceanside about the 254R, They did say to use the 254 regular and not the 254R wich is rapid set. Any insight on this. Pro's/Cons? Might take back 254R and get the plain 254. Stuff is expensive $33 for 25lb bag.
Glass is 1x1 held together with glued paper face. I cut the 12x12 sheets into a 3x12 to use as a border.
Thanks,
Dan
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