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Old 06-24-2018, 12:26 PM   #31
bbfan23
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Yes to both of these.

Liner runs over the 2x4s to the floor on other side, metal lath, then mortar.
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Old 06-24-2018, 12:50 PM   #32
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Sorry picture came in sideways. The black line is where my top layer of mud will fill to. Just didnít know if whatís below should be liquid membraned.
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Old 06-24-2018, 02:03 PM   #33
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The Permabase is suitable to be burried in your final mud bed. You can apply your wall waterproofing either before or after placing your final mud bed. You can apply the waterproofing on the entire CBU or stop at your marked mud fill line. And you would do that only if you have not applied a moisture barrier behind the CBU before installing.

Again, you do not want the direct bonded waterproofing membrane on your curb or on the shower floor.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-17-2018, 04:35 PM   #34
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I’m now at the point where I can begin tiling! After a long and laborious search we finally settled on some penny round tiles for the floor. Unfortunately they’re thinner than the original tile we thought we were going to use. Now I have about a quarter inch difference from the top of the tile to the top of the drain (before setting in thin-set).

Is this too much of a gap or can I safely make up the difference with a little extra thin-set at the time of tile setting?

I’ve tried unscrewing the drain, with hopes of chiseling down the mud that’s under the drain top but it’s held tight and I don’t want to risk cracking something. Come to think of it I believe the underside is not smooth and has slight protrusions that are prob holding it in place. Not sure.

Hoping we don’t have to search for thicker tile.

Thanks
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:17 PM   #35
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Tim, I didn't see anything mentioned about using glue-on pan corners where the jambs meet the curb. Did you do that?

It's nearly impossible to butter up mosaics without having a big mess. I would unscrew the drain one way or another. A big pair of channel locks will unscrew it. You may have to buy a new drain just to use the top grate if you mess it up. Once it's up, grind a little bit of mud so the grate will go down.

This is why it's best to never mud a shower floor before you have your tile in hand.
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Old 07-17-2018, 07:40 PM   #36
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Thanks Davy, I did use the PVC corners where the curb meets the wall if thatís what youíre asking. I also Redgarded an inch or two of the curb where it meets the wall.

Yeah, Iím thinking getting the drain unscrewed would be my best bet if using that much thinset is not recommended.
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Old 07-18-2018, 05:51 PM   #37
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When you dry set the tile on the mud, lower the drain so it's about 1/16 higher than the tile. Then use a 3/16 V-notch trowel to install the penny rounds. The tiles should push down into the thinset and be flush with the top of the drain grate.
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Old 07-18-2018, 08:38 PM   #38
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Drains are cheap but you might be able to use this instead of channel locks and save your drain. If nothing else you have yet another tool in your tool box
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:34 AM   #39
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Well looks like the drain is not coming out. If I crank down on the channel locks any more Iím risking cracking it. It is really cemented in there.

So the alternatives now are using more thinset to raise the tile or going back to the drawing board on our tile selection. Iím guessing selecting thicker tile is going to be the wiser option?
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Old 07-21-2018, 01:59 PM   #40
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How about if I first do a slightly tapered out build up of thinset around the drain first, let it set, then put down the tile?
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:14 PM   #41
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Did you cement (glue) the threads that are in the grate to the ring?

If you mean the dry pack cement, I would chip away at the mud around the drain and try to remove a little mud under the lip of the grate. It can be patched back in.
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:49 PM   #42
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Hi Davy, itís not PVC cemented in. I have hammered a flathead screwdriver around the outside edge but I think the mud pan is cemented into the threads further down which is causing it to be locked in place.

Iíve done some internet searching and came across someone w a similar problem who was also unable to get the drain unlocked. Someone recommended grinding the drain down. This might be my next best option. My concern is the amount Iíll be grinding down will also remove the inner ring where the drain cap latches. If thatís the case Iím guessing I could just silicone it into place? Does this sound like a viable option? At this point trying to find different floor tile may cause the end of my marriage. 😜
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:00 PM   #43
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Don't start packing yet.

I wouldn't grind on the drain. I would continue to dig out the mud up under the edge of the grate. The mud won't lock in the threads very tight but it will probably take a large wrench or channel locks that will open to 4+ inches to get it off. Taking it off by hand probably won't happen. You might ruin the drain grate and have to buy a new one. I still see this as the best option.
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:54 PM   #44
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I bought 16 inch channel locks with a 5 1/2 spread on a 4 inch drain. Had so much pressure on top of the drain it was folding in. Thereís no more place to chisel under drain. It just wonít budge.

The only other thing I can think of is to try to cut it out. My concern is damaging the threads on the lower part of the drain so that even if I do cut it out I wonít be able to screw the new one in. Ugh.
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Old 07-22-2018, 09:19 AM   #45
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I've never had one that stubborn. I've even removed them that were in place for 20+ years. Dumb question but you are turning counterclockwise, right?

Can you post a close up pic of the drain as it looks now?
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