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Old 01-05-2014, 03:10 PM   #46
Mathelo
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Moving slow on this project but demolition is complete and I managed to temporarily relocate all electrical without needing a junction box. I did have to remove some sheetrock downstairs but nothing I wasn't planning to cut into anyway. So that is all good.

I'm now putting together my purchase list for oversize goods that I cannot pickup myself. This includes the sisters for the floor joists, subflooring (Advantec), and HardiBacker board.

Question: I'm using the HardiBacker board for the tub surround. As you can see in the attached drawing I'm planning to tile the entire room up to window sill height. Should I use Hardbacker board for the entire room where I'm putting the tile or will sheetrock be sufficient?

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Old 01-05-2014, 03:36 PM   #47
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Louis, that's a nice look, all that herringbone will keep you busy.

What method of waterproofing will you be using around the tub?
It would be wise to extend the cbu past the tub a few inches. I think using cbu in the dry area is not necessary unless you anticipate moisture issues.

Not sure what the experts will say about the osb subfloor. I would use 3/4 t and g BC ply. The cost difference should be minor.

Keep us posted.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:22 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by by-eye
Louis, that's a nice look, all that herringbone will keep you busy.
Tile selection is to illustrate. My wife is thinking herringbone. I'm thinking something simpler.

Quote:
What method of waterproofing will you be using around the tub?
Haven't decided for sure but considering Schluter Kerdi for waterproofing membrane. I've also used NobleSeal TS and I was pleased with its performance.

Quote:
It would be wise to extend the cbu past the tub a few inches. I think using cbu in the dry area is not necessary unless you anticipate moisture issues.
I'm not really expecting moisture beyond the tub outside of the ordinary.

Quote:
Not sure what the experts will say about the osb subfloor. I would use 3/4 t and g BC ply. The cost difference should be minor.
I used Advantec in the foyer. Looks very durable to me. Advantec is no ordinary osb. Will be used with Ditra.
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:52 PM   #49
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Also, should the Hardibacker board go all the way to the ceiling in the bathtub surround, and the ceiling as well, as this will all be covered with tile?
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:06 PM   #50
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Anything above the pipe coming out the wall for the shower head is technically above the wet area in a standard shower, Louis, and you can use whatever backing material you like.

If I were using CBU and tiling to the ceiling, I'd likely install CBU to the ceiling. I'd not bother with CBU on the ceiling unless I knew my ceiling board or its installation was deficient.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:24 AM   #51
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Just placed my order at Ring End for sheet goods and lumber and they asked if I wanted moisture resistant drywall instead of the regular. Cost aside, should I use this in the bathroom everywhere except the tub surround, which will be getting the HardiBacker board?

Based on a quick search I understand there can be issues using this against vapor barriers as well as on ceilings.
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:20 AM   #52
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Use regular white drywall and save the money. A decent tile and paint job are all you need.

Use Zinsser oil based primer or Kilz original under the topcoat of your choice.
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:48 AM   #53
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I agree, I always use oil prime in bathrooms, but I recommend a low or no odor type. The standard zinsser will stink up the place.

I use mesh tape and hot mud for the joints. Some say the premixed compound is not the best for bathrooms....not sure if it's true

Are you going to embed the heat mat in SLC? Will the type you choose work well with the subfloor?

Keep us posted.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:25 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by by-eye
Are you going to embed the heat mat in SLC? Will the type you choose work well with the subfloor?
I was not planning on using SLC unless my floor needed leveling.

I'm planning to install a Nuheat mat with thinset between the subfloor and the mat. Any reason I should be concerned about this?

EDIT: I'm following the Schluter guidance provided on page 12 of the Ditra Handbook for Wood Substrate: Electric thin-mat or wire system - http://www.schluter.com/media/DITRAH...v=201401040601
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:47 AM   #55
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Louis,
I took the advice of embedding in SLC.
Have you installed a mat before?
It can be tedious to get it nice and flat, and you will have to trowel a flat surface, and feather it flat to the areas where the mat isn't used. Like under the vanity, in the closet etc.
Doable, but for me, I was scared.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:54 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by by-eye
I took the advice of embedding in SLC.

Have you installed a mat before?

It can be tedious to get it nice and flat, and you will have to trowel a flat surface, and feather it flat to the areas where the mat isn't used. Like under the vanity, in the closet etc.

Doable, but for me, I was scared.
I've never done a mat before. I'll give SLC further consideration.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:39 PM   #57
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When screeding thinset over a heat mat, a common solution is to install a strip of backer board around the room - maybe a foot wide or so. Then you can use the backer board as a guide to strike off the thinset.
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:59 PM   #58
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Attaching Sisters

I'm starting to put the sisters in and thought I should double check before moving forward.

I'm planning to glue and screw using PL Premium and 3" decking screws every 4" in a zig zag pattern. I'll also hit it with some framing nails for good measure.

Is that adequate? I've read on other threads about using lag bolts. If I should use lag bolts, I'll go get them in the morning.

Thanks again!
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Old 01-07-2014, 08:02 PM   #59
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Your idea is fine. Use plenty of glue and keep the deck screws about 1-1/2" from the edges, at the top & bottom. If you can, use the same amount of screws, but go to about 8" on center and screw from both sides of the sisters. Use clamps to hold things tight til you get some screws in there.
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Old 01-07-2014, 10:16 PM   #60
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Quote:
Your idea is fine. Use plenty of glue and keep the deck screws about 1-1/2" from the edges, at the top & bottom. If you can, use the same amount of screws, but go to about 8" on center and screw from both sides of the sisters. Use clamps to hold things tight til you get some screws in there.
Not sure what you mean by 8" on center?
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