Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet

Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 01-08-2004, 04:42 PM   #1
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 59
Small Bathroom Remodel

Greetings! I have been monitoring this board and doing some reading for some time now. I have a 92" x 60" bath in the basement. We have a septic system and the H2S corroded the copper sanitary plumbing causing holes in the pipe walls. I had to gut the bath and also jackhammer up part of the floor to replace the plumbing (so what are a few weekends?). My wife wants to replace the tub with a walk-in shower. Since I need to replace the walls, I figured I might as well cover them with backer board and tile them too. I have never laid tile before, but am reasonably handy, very patient, and a fast learner. I have built a stone fireplace, poured a driveway and sidewalk, etc.

The floor in this room is concrete and level. It was covered with vinyl which I have removed with a floring scraper. Question: What do I need to do to the floor to clean it before laying floor tile??

The end wall is an outside (concrete block) wall. It will be the side wall of the shower. I plan to insulate it with blue board between furring strips before adding a vapor barrier and backer board, Correct??

The ends walls of the shower are stud walls and I will have to build the other side wall. I assume that even with the concrete floor there are no shortcuts and I am looking at a traditional membrane installation; am I correct??

Finally, I am considering tiling the ceiling. Particularly in the shower. Is this practical considering that I have no experiece with tiling? If I do tile it do I use 1/2" Hardibacker or greenboard on the ceiling. If greenboard, what is used to adhere the tile to the greenboard??


dcgauger is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 01-08-2004, 06:36 PM   #2
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
Welcome, Don!

Cleaning the floor means removing all the adhesive, unless it's that black tarry stuff called "cutback." There are thinsets that will stick to it. Even still, you want to remove almost all traces of the stuff. A water test will tell you if you are done. Water that soaks into the concrete is a good sign that the thinset will bond.

If by blueboard you mean polystyrene (styrofoam) insulation, you have the right stuff.

A traditional membrane shower pan is highly recommended (actually code required). It will help drain the setting bed and keep your shower dry. Dry showers discourage mold growth. Since a membrane shower pan requires a special style drain, and your tub drain location is not ideal for a shower, you get to bust out some concrete. Lucky you! (No shortcuts, remember? )

You can tile the ceiling! By the time you get there, you won't be inexperienced, either. We usually recommend 5/8" sheetrock instead of greenboard or CBU. Just pay attention to supporting the drywall. Double screws, and strapping on 12" centers will make your seiling bullet-proof.

You will be using modified thinset for all your tiles. It's the best stuff, and you won't have a bunch of different products laying around. You will gain experience with it, so when it comes to the ceiling, there won't be any surprises.

If you haven't already, please check out the shower construction thread in the "Liberry." Then, if you have more questions, bring them back to this thread, so we can better keep track of your project and our advice.

Good luck on your project!

bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-08-2004, 07:29 PM   #3
John Bridge
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Rosanky, Texas
Posts: 67,760
Send a message via AIM to John Bridge
Welcome aboard, Don.
John Bridge is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2004, 10:41 AM   #4
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 59
Vent Fan Location

Still in the planning stages before I dive in on this project. As I said earlier, this is a very small bathroom. I am considering installing a vent fan/light combination listed for installation in a shower and on a GFCI branch circuit in the shower (which will occupy almost half of the room) instead of in the stoll/sink part of the room. We do not need the fan while the shower is in use, but I was thinking that it would assist in drying the stall afterwards. Otherwise, there will be almost no air movement in the shower. Can anyone with some experience in these matters let me know if this is a good or bad idea??


dcgauger is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2004, 11:58 AM   #5
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
Good idea. Mine is located over the shower stall, and I run it during and after my shower. You can't hear it over the sound of the water and my singing.

You'll also need some light by the vanity, and maybe some near the throne, if you are into reading...
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2004, 12:22 PM   #6
Remodeler -- Southern Cal.
Scooter's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,345
Hi Don:

I built a couple hundred homes in Ames in the 1960's and am still a big Iowa State Fan. I do miss the state fair and sweet corn in August, however. Sigh..........

The basement bathroom in your climate would benefit from an exhaust fan because of mold mildew issues in the summer. Because it is so small of a bathroom it matters not whether the fan/light is in the shower or the bathroom.

Size the room in terms of cubic feet: length x width x height of room. By my calculation you have about 300 cubic feet. The general rule of thumb for bath fans is that you want a complete change of the air every 5 minutes, so you want to pick a fan that has 150-300 cfm (cubic feet per minute).

Depending on the run to outside, you may want to size it larger for longer runs. Over 30-40 feet, and I would get a booster fan as well. The flexible tubing has to be insulated, because in your climate, in the winter, you will get a huge amount of condensation when the warm moist bath air meets the frozen air of Iowa in February.

You might also want to consider an exterior mounted motor. They are easier to service if anything goes wrong (the motor is on the outside of the house) and they are not as noisy. They are not combo units. So you will have to buy a separate grill , but you can buy a grill that has a nice looking light in it, its just that the motor is outside, which I think is advantage.

I use FanTech fans and here is link to their bathroom exhaust fans:


I think I would recommend RVF-4. I would also get a time delay light switch, which would mean when you turn on your light the fan comes on and stays on on for a couple of minutes after the light goes off. That switch is the FLD 60. The grill is VLC64

Here is a link to the switch:


Here is a link to the combo grill/light unit:


Good Luck!
"Sir, I May Be Drunk, But You're Crazy, and I'll Be Sober Tomorrow"
WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Scooter is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-09-2004, 04:26 PM   #7
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 14
Fantech fans

I second looking into using Fantech fans. I have installed one with the combo light/grill unit in each of my two bathrooms. They are great! The only problem is that because you can barely hear them it is easy to forget to turn them off. I would definitley suggest a timer switch of some kind.
Mark Rosholt
rosh is offline   Reply With Quote

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC