Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 10-31-2010, 09:01 AM   #46
Honeydo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NY/FL
Posts: 599
Don't know how you feel about resale, but I'm not sure there is any jurisdiction that would okay that step arrangement, handrail or not.
Maybe you have no code to worry about.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayo
I do however have a lot of ambition
I take it there is no chance of finding a really nice manufactured soaking tub? Lot's to choose from,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayo
My girlfriend hates it, but I seem to think the only other option
How long have you been together??? Wisdom before ambition, Always make her happy


Your girlfriend will love you......You might even love yourself when ambition wanes a bit as a project drags on.

(I once put in windows that cost me more than they needed to. 122 windows imported from Canada, Very nice windows, Anderson's would have been fine. A friend asked me why. My logic, It wasn't worth listening to her for the rest of my life that I should have done.......
I might have made a foolish mistake in my younger days.
__________________
Ed

Last edited by Honeydo; 10-31-2010 at 03:35 PM.
Honeydo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-01-2010, 04:21 PM   #47
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
"I take it there is no chance of finding a really nice manufactured soaking tub? Lot's to choose from, "
Really nice soaking tubs have really big price tags. I said I have a lot of ambition, not money.

"How long have you been together??? Wisdom before ambition, Always make her happy"
We've been together for 10 years, and I'm making the floor how I want, and she'll like it!

(I once put in windows that cost me more than they needed to. 122 windows imported from Canada, Very nice windows, Anderson's would have been fine. A friend asked me why. My logic, It wasn't worth listening to her for the rest of my life that I should have done.......
I might have made a foolish mistake in my younger days.

Ordering the Andersons tonight.
__________________
Dayo
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-01-2010, 07:05 PM   #48
Honeydo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NY/FL
Posts: 599
well, Good luck on a very ambitious project. I think your drawing was referring to a "wood framed, membraned lined, mortar and tile tub" .

You might want to check with Laticrete, but I think you might find some special construction design considerations with a wood framed tub, not even sure they will allow it. Special framing details in all planes of the "basin". Some design and engineering considerations and construction work to insure all surfaces will meet l360 defection that they require for hydroban when loaded with the water and people in the tub.

Or you can wing it on your own.

edit add, I think there is an IAMPO standard for a site constructed Roman tub and I think the TCA mirrors that
__________________
Ed

Last edited by Honeydo; 11-01-2010 at 09:29 PM.
Honeydo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-01-2010, 07:19 PM   #49
Levi the Tile Guy
Tile and Stone Contractor
 
Levi the Tile Guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Posts: 5,542
Dayo,

Ed has a point, you prolly should call Laticrete's tech support and get their requirement or suggestions for your application. I've done hot tubs before, but they were already constructed and all I did was add the tile. I always used a 100% solid epoxy grout also.
__________________
Levi The Tile Guy


Grand Junction, Colorado Tile and Stone installation

Levi the Tile Guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-02-2010, 08:20 AM   #50
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
My plan was to just build the living hell out of it; as if every surface was designed to park a car on. Then 3/4" plywood and hardibacker cement board over that. I got lots of glue, 3/8" bolts, concrete anchors, long screws, and a pile of lumber big enough to build a one car garage.
__________________
Dayo
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-13-2010, 10:06 PM   #51
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
Progress

My walls are insulated, 15# felt paper is up, shower is framed, my tub is half framed, my drain pipes are all in place, I just finished sweatin' all the new copper pipes, all the tub and shower fixtures are in place, I patched in the ragged edge of my half slab with cement, and tomorrow I get to put up walls.

I could post pictures, but I probably shouldn't clog up the server of a tile forum with plumbing and carpentry pictures, so I'll wait till it's further along.
__________________
Dayo
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-14-2010, 08:18 AM   #52
WendyHMN
Amateur Jack of All Trades
 
WendyHMN's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 2,516
No such thing as a bad renovation picture. Unless it's blurry, of course.
__________________
Wendy

Blue belt DIYer. Moderately proficient and occasionally useful.
See my finished master bath here.
WendyHMN is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-15-2010, 05:26 PM   #53
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
The first two pictures are old, the rest are where I was yesterday, I hope they're not too blurry, being camera phone pictures and all. It's tough in such a small dark room.
Attached Images
         
__________________
Dayo

Last edited by Dayo A.; 11-15-2010 at 05:33 PM.
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-22-2010, 02:42 PM   #54
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
Raised floor is in:
Attached Images
   
__________________
Dayo
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-25-2010, 11:34 PM   #55
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
Mud Bed

Here's my mud bed and curb. I made the curb one 2x4 higher than shown in the previous photos, then covered the curb and the 3/4" ply floor with 15# tar paper and 2.5 diamond galvanized steel lath. I nailed the lath down with galvanized roofing nails.

I covered the wood curb in type S mortar, and sloped it down from the wooden floor toward the shower. It was beginning to seem impossible to get the sides and top corners to square up and become flat just by working it with a trowel, so I had my helper whip up some 2x4s to frame it up.

The next day the curb looked pretty solid, so we mixed up two 60lb bags of sand/topping mix (120lbs), with 60lbs of play sand. It was a big batch, and the large mixing tray from HD was overflowing. We had the window open and it was pretty cool out, plus we had the heat duct in the room blocked, so I hope it didn't get too dry on us while working it. After it was all mixed, we added the water and continued to take turns mixing.

As my helper mixed the final clumps out of the mix, I threw together a small batch of versabond and backbuttered the kerdi drain, and the lath around the hole. Then I loaded a mound of the drypack around the drain hole and glued the drain to the pipe. We quickly threw drypack around all the edges of the shower, and I used a level to pack it down to my screed line I had drawn on the 1/2" Hardibacker CBU and curb.

Then I used various pieces of wood to pack the rest with deck mud and check for flatness. I wasn't super positive the edges of the drain had enough thinset under the trapezoids, so I feathered some in across the top of the drain when I finished leveling/packing the deck.

We probably didn't finish packing the deck until an hour and a half after we started mixing the water into the mud, and I read the average working time is only 45 minutes! Is there something I should watch out for? I mean, how can I tell if I worked it too long? I mixed it as properly as I could tell from the instructions in the "Liberry", but WOW it looked so dry. It's been just over 24 hours, and it seems pretty cohesive, with the exeption of some loose sand that was on the surface here and there.

For example, small globs of thinset that fell on the surface required moderate prying force with a fingernail to pry off the mud bed after 12 hours, and tapping on it with my knuckles definitely makes a knocking sound and leaves no dents. Am I ok?

Ps. The mud is 2" thick at the edges, and 1.5" thick at the drain.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Dayo

Last edited by Dayo A.; 11-25-2010 at 11:49 PM.
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-25-2010, 11:45 PM   #56
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
Another question: Can I spread thinset over the mud bed to fill any imperfections before I apply hydroban? When I do the seams with AR tape, should I tape where the mudbed meets the hardibacker, and where the curb meets the hardibacker and bed?
__________________
Dayo
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-26-2010, 09:12 AM   #57
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 88,268
1. Yes.

2. No.

Can't tell what that horizontal plywood area is to be, but if it's a floor, alternating the direction of the plywood layers is a very bad idea.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-26-2010, 09:43 AM   #58
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
Ok, I'm going to smooth out my floor imperfections with thinset, and only tape the joints in the walls, not around the bed or curb.

I guess I'm screwed on the floor beacause I laid 3/4" plywood across the joists, and glued 1/2" plywood on top of that in the same direction as the joists.

What type of failure should I expect because of alternating the plywood direction?
__________________
Dayo
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-26-2010, 11:39 AM   #59
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
I know this question was kinda buried in post #55, but can anybody tell me how to tell if my mudbed is solid enough?

I already have a crack in my new curb, does that mean I have to start from scratch, or do I just hydroban it and tile?
Attached Images
 
__________________
Dayo
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-27-2010, 04:30 PM   #60
Dayo A.
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kenmore NY
Posts: 67
bump

I'm a little worried about that because my 4:1 sand mix was just damp,and I worked with it for so long.
__________________
Dayo
Dayo A. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tile tub (Roman tub) bellabella Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 10-24-2009 11:14 AM
Roman Tub JTG Professionals' Hangout 3 05-27-2008 08:22 PM
Another roman tub Conan Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 12-07-2006 08:14 PM
Roman Tub HELP Faseel Tile Forum/Advice Board 14 01-04-2005 06:13 PM
Roman Tub (How to) stone niche Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 12-24-2002 07:31 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:10 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC