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Old 05-19-2019, 10:29 AM   #31
Davy
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I see the installer's business card on the curb. Apparently the demand is high.

The cracking issue is my concern but I've never heard if that being a problem. I guess fiberglass will have a little flex. I don't see it ever rotting.
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Old 05-19-2019, 10:44 AM   #32
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He told me that those stapes were there depending on the application of walls customers use. Since I'm using cement board, he told me to remove them. I thought it was weird that he would put holes in the fiberglass but when I asked him for more, he told me to look closer and id find a little patch behind the fiberglass.

Austin is blowing up, the new construction here is insane. He said he does about 50-75/week.

He also told me he spent a ton of money getting fiberglass approved in the code so that's likely why he pushes them so hard. I'd never heard of fiberglass before either but so far, so good.

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Old 05-19-2019, 02:35 PM   #33
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AC, if you don't mind, tell us what you paid him for the pan so we can compare. I don't understand the patch behind the staple. Does the staple go thru the patch?

As with any type pan liner in that application, I wouldn't nail cement board on the curb. That still needs to be wrapped in lath and mudded. You can find details about mudding a curb in the Liberry. It's found in the dark blue bar near the top of this page. Look in the 'shower construction info" thread. Also, on the walls keep the screws/nails 3 inches above the curb height.
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Old 05-19-2019, 03:05 PM   #34
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Here's a close-up of the staple. It looks like it goes (from the stud side) - patch > then staple > through fiberglass so that it's still waterproof. I don't know what the application is for the staples, but I'm just gonna clip them at the base with some tin snips since I'm using cement board so as not to mess up the waterproofing.

Also thanks for the heads up on the curb, I plan on using a product called "kirb-perfect" using deck mud from my mud bed to fill it in. Any tips or tricks here would be welcome.

I paid $375 which included demo of the effed up pan (the one first installed) to correct handyman's mistake, laying the preslope, and install of the fiberglass. They also installed a new drain for an extra $100 which, (with Austin building boom pricing) could have easily been double that.


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Old 05-20-2019, 02:05 PM   #35
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Question about the final mud bed - since the preslope already has the slope grade necessary to drive water into the drain, I am guessing that I don't have to slope the final mud bed any further...is that correct? I can just build it to be 1.25" inches on top of the fiberglass and call it good?

Also, how does that pricing compare?

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Old 05-20-2019, 02:29 PM   #36
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So, those staples were shot through from the outside of the receptor walls and a patch fiberglassed over them? And still he told you to remove them, rather than just clipping them off? Are they all at least three inches above the top of your curb?

You are correct about the slope. Your final mud bed is required to be a consistent minimum of 1 1/2" thick according to tile industry standards.

And I'm curious as to whether they provided the required slope to drain on the top of your curb.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-20-2019, 02:53 PM   #37
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Ha, he told me to snip them off, not to pull them out. They're for some other fiberglass application I still don't know what.

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Old 05-20-2019, 06:58 PM   #38
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So, if /when the staples rust out, will the shower leak? I wouldn't want them in my shower without something covering them up. Like CX said, they are fine if they are 3 inches above the curb height but they look to be lower than that.

CX also mentioned the waterproofing/ fiberglass on top of the curb. I rarely see it done except in my showers but the 2x4's should have had pitch to them. That way the fiberglass follows that pitch.
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Old 05-20-2019, 07:50 PM   #39
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The kirb perfect has a built in pitch to it. But now that you mention it, I may just redgard the outside of the 2x4s to make double sure that nothing gets in there accidentally.

I snipped the staples. If/when they rust out, they will be enclosed by that waterproof patch. They're basically embedded into the fiberglass. To CX's point, if I would have tried to tear them out instead of snip them, they would have left holes.

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Old 05-20-2019, 09:12 PM   #40
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Matters not that the KirbPerfect thingee (which I'd recommend you not use) has slope built in, AC, it's the waterproof layer that is required to be sloped to the drain.

RedGard is not indicated for use over dimension wood by the manufacturer. Your fiberglass does not cover the wood curb structure? Appears to in your photos.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-20-2019, 09:23 PM   #41
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Yes it goes over the top of the 2x4, but it does not cover the outside of the curb. Ive seen shower liners get attached to the outside using traditional method, so that's probably no biggie. I was gonna give it a little bit of redgard on the outside edge to waterproof the wood for longevity's sake but I have some deck sealer that will do pretty much the same thing. It's pressure treated/ ground contact wood so I'm not that worried about it the I was pretty much thinking out loud on that one.

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Old 05-20-2019, 09:46 PM   #42
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The pressure treated wood in that application is not a good idea, AC. I don't know how much support that fiberglass will provide, but the wood in your curb (unless it is KDAT) will shrink and likely try to warp or twist a bit as it dries.
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:13 PM   #43
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The reason I ripped out the shower is because I had termites so I wasn't gonna risk it.

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Old 05-21-2019, 02:50 AM   #44
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As the PT wood twists, it'll likely try to twist whatever is attached to it. So your tile may crack, and the grout will likely crack.

It's actually a quite common mistake that is made in shower construction.
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Old 05-21-2019, 05:52 AM   #45
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I would cover the raw wood with tar paper before wrapping it with lath. Fat mud on the curb would be much stronger than dry pack and absorb less. I'd leave the plastic cage out and mud it like the Liberry shows.
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