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Old 04-29-2019, 09:35 AM   #16
Kman
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Brick mortar. But it's not made to go very thick, so just for the floor if the pan, and to level it a bit.
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:53 AM   #17
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thanks. That's wht I'll use to level the base. If I were to add deck mud to fill in under that flange down to the floor, is there a risk of the drypack not holding up?
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:26 PM   #18
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Yep. I wouldn't bother with that.

If you're using lumber for that short wall, you can try to work something in there like a 2x on edge to help support it. But it seems like a lot of work for little to no effect.
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Old 04-29-2019, 02:26 PM   #19
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Alright I'll skip that. Thanks everyone.
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Old 05-11-2019, 09:07 AM   #20
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Drywall screws and adding a wall stud

Hello again.
In the kerdi shower I. Doing, one of the interior shower walls is 24oc studs. I'm going to add a stud.
Is it ok if I just add blocking about 6 feet up the wall where I've already removed drywall and add the stud or do I need to go all the way to the ceiling?

Also, after researching here it seems psf of tile weight is not an issue, as far as the drywall being able to support it.
I started thinking about drywall screws... how is it that drywall screws can support the drywall and tile/thinset weight?

Thanks again for all the insight. Love this site.
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Old 05-12-2019, 05:37 AM   #21
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I think adding the blocking and running the new stud from the blocking to the bottom plate will be fine, Alex.

There is strength in numbers. Since you are hanging tile on drywall be certain you use enough screws, I'd probably go with not more than 8" spacing. The head of the screw spreads out some of the load, just be sure you don't drive the screws so the heads go all the way through the paper facing. If it gives to peace of mind you can put a bead of construction adhesive on the studs.
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:30 PM   #22
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Can I shim curb to level over sloped floor

So I've had to rethink this, and am now doing a mud pan and kerdi for the base. Old base wasn't going to work out like I wanted it to... question regarding the curb. I'm using 3 stacked 2x4's. My floor is out of level over the 3 foot length. About 1/4 over 3 feet. Can I just shim it in a couple of places on the bottom 2x4 and then stack from there? But then I would have to make the front curb in plane with this. seems like every time I come up with another plan another issue pops up.
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:23 PM   #23
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I would assume everyone that does a mud bed to accommodate an unlevel floor has to deal with leveling the curbs?
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:29 PM   #24
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One would think so, Alex.

Yes, you can make your wood curb frame level by shimming under one end. You'll hafta consider the tile on the outside of the curb face will need to be tapered to fit if your bathroom floor remains un-level.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 05-30-2019, 01:39 PM   #25
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Ok, thank you.
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Old 05-31-2019, 07:42 AM   #26
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I'm sure this is answered somewhere. . When I add my second layer of plywood do I need to trim off about 3/4 inch from the bottom of the existing drywall so I can get the sheets underneath it with the proper gap, or can i just butt the new ply up to the existing drywall?
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:01 AM   #27
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You don't wanna butt the subflooring against the wall, Alex. You can either cut away the drywall if you want, or simply stop your second layer short of the wall by a quarter-inch.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-06-2019, 08:16 PM   #28
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Plywood voids

I am in the process of adding a layer of 3/4 inch bc plywood over my existing subfloor. After cutting a couple of pieces to fit I noticed little voids within the ply layers. Not like knot holes, but what looked like something to do with the manufacturing of them. I double checked the plywood stamp after this and it is bc exposure one from home depot. Is this normal?
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:01 PM   #29
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Yes, quite normal, Alex, and some will be worse than others. Even within the same grades you'll find pretty substantial differences in quality of both the face plies and the internal plies. You're unlikely to find the better quality panels at Homer's. Hell, these days you're unlikely to find the better quality panels at all.

You can Google up the APA and get as deep as you want into the standards for engineered wood, but be prepared for the loss of more hours than you might budget for the project.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-24-2019, 03:26 PM   #30
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Related question. I just screwed my 3/4 inch ply down to 7/8 in osb sturdi-floor. I'm using 1 5/8 deck screws. Some seemed to really bite into the osb, however others seemed to just barely make it flush to the ply before spinning. Is this ok?

Thanks, Alex
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