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Unread 04-28-2019, 11:15 AM   #16
PC7060
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Sure here ya go.....

2012 - International Plumbing Code
CHAPTER 7 SANITARY DRAINAGE
SECTION 709 FIXTURE UNITS

https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IP...itary-drainage
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Unread 04-28-2019, 04:53 PM   #17
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some follow up on my original question

apparently any vent that is not vertical needs to be washed using another fixture. Im guessing because of potential clogging issues?

time to rip into the wall and make a vertical vent.

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.p...-shower.81370/
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Unread 04-28-2019, 06:00 PM   #18
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How far is the shower drain from the toilet vent? If within 6’ (8?) you don’t need need another vent for shower.

I’ll have to look up the exact distance requirements.

Last edited by PC7060; 04-28-2019 at 06:40 PM.
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Unread 04-28-2019, 06:06 PM   #19
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Here you go....

So with your 2” drain, your shower trap can be a maximum of 8’ from toilet vent.

TABLE 909.1 MAXIMUM DISTANCE OF FIXTURE TRAP FROM VENT

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Here is a link to the chapter 9 venting for the 2012 IPC. The 2018 version is the same.

https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IP...hapter-9-vents
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Unread 05-28-2019, 12:07 PM   #20
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framing corners

Can someone tell me if this is sufficient corner support or should I add more directly in the corner?

Also my drywall (tiling the whole bathroom, not just the shower area) are significantly built up to where the gap in the middle of a 10' straight edge is about 1/2". Whats the best way of fixing this?

PS I am using schluter shower kit (waterproofing membrane) on green board

Thanks!
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Unread 05-28-2019, 12:38 PM   #21
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Hello Tom,

Wouldn't hurt to add another 2x4 or two to each corner to help with attaching the drywall or add more blocking where you plan on installing grab handles, shower door hinges, etc...

Also, while you're at this stage, it's a good idea to make sure your shower walls are both plumb and flat, it will take a little longer to do using $5 cardboard drywall shims from your local big box or additional 2x4s if necessary. That will make your tile job go a lot smoother.
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Unread 05-28-2019, 04:19 PM   #22
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And you would be better off to use plain white drywall, rather than greenboard.
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Unread 05-28-2019, 04:25 PM   #23
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I agree with Ali and Jeff, Tom, you need more "blocking" for the (any) wall board.

The last pic you posted; back wall, bottom left and right corners; there isn't anything there to which you can screw the wall board to.
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Unread 05-28-2019, 04:34 PM   #24
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Tom, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

A geographic location in your User Profile is often helpful as well.

I'll add a second vote to eliminate the MR board and use plain drywall in that room unless your local code compliance people require differently. You can show them that the ICC ES Report that shows the Kerdi System can be used with plain drywall in wet areas.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 05-28-2019, 07:02 PM   #25
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CX, that makes sense. Thanks for merging the threads.

Ill put up drywall instead of the MR board as advised.

With the corners being so far out, do you guys think I should just rip all the existing drywall out and redo? If so do I need to install any corner bead or tape or do I just tile over the drywall as is?

Biggest concern I have is the corner of the shower up toward the ceiling. It's bumped out quite a bit.

Thanks for your help
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Unread 05-28-2019, 07:06 PM   #26
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It will be easier in the long run to level and plumb your walls and add 2x4s when you rip out all the drywall. Another advantage is that you can stand up 4x8 sheets or 4x10 sheets of drywall and zip them on pretty quick if you start with a clean slate.

If you use kerdi and tile up to the ceiling, you won't have to do any drywall finishing.

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Unread 05-28-2019, 07:37 PM   #27
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sounds like a plan, Thanks!
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Unread 05-29-2019, 09:17 AM   #28
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I'm not sure why you guys are posting excerpts from the International Plumbing Code (IPC).

Tom has stated that he's in Illinois and has already posted sections from the Illinois Plumbing Code. Illinois has its own plumbing code that supercedes/replaces the IPC.

Tom to answer some of your earlier questions, yes you read section 890 correct in that your shower waste outlet (drain) needs to have a 2" line, so good on you for correcting it and doing it the right way.

How are you resolving the two vents for the new shower and the existing toilet? Are you connecting the shower vent to the existing vent as some point, or are you going to run the shower vent through the roof?
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Unread 07-16-2019, 03:11 PM   #29
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houndzilla: thanks for your reply. Thankfully this part of my project is done. I ended up running everything in 2" and ran an independent vent pipe for each(much as it was before the 1.5->2" upgrade).

One more question for you guys, I ended up redoing the whole floor as it was way too wavy. I had 3/4" height differences between the low and high spots.

I ended up ripping everything out, drywall and the floors, adding new framing where necessary and I think its as good as it gets.

Now that I am setting the shower tray, The floor has a tiny bit of slope (1/16 over 5') it shows up ever so slightly if I put a level on the floor.

do you guys think I can just set the tray in thinset and level it that way?

Thanks all!
T
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Unread 07-16-2019, 07:12 PM   #30
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IMO, 1/16 over 5’ is perfectly fine! Certainly less than the standard 1/4” per ft slope of the tray.
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