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Unread 04-24-2019, 06:25 PM   #31
smifwal
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you cans scribe this way without a compass and use a sharpie in lue of the pencil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04eVjUQNzj8

what size tile are you doing on your vanity?
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Unread 04-24-2019, 07:04 PM   #32
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A fine point sharpie and using a length of wood as a scribe tool.
I need to get the rest of the texture off this wall. It's messing up the scribe and I think may be why the pencil did not work well.

I'm going to slightly reposition the cabinet to be more square and level using some shims.

How do I clean pencil graphite off kerdi board? I have two or three marks that I need to "erase". Would rubbing alcohol work and not damage the kerdiboard?

Tile will be 6x6 with matching stair rail edges.
I chose this tile because it's stocked pretty good and has trim
of all sizes.
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Unread 04-24-2019, 08:02 PM   #33
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Don't waste your time trying to clean it off that is already buggered up. The rubbing alcohol may or may not damage the but it will be wet and you would have to wait for it to dry to mark it. Just put a piece of tape over the area that you are going to scribe and just scribe it on the tape

. I asked about the tile size because in a earlier post you said you had a inconstant overhang. If you do a consistent overhand then you will get a odd shaped tile at the end. The smaller the tile the more noticeable it will be but the inconsistent overhang will be less noticeable depending on the lay out of the bathroom
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Unread 04-24-2019, 10:57 PM   #34
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91% isopropyl dries fast but tape is a good idea. So long as it will stick.
Off to Home Depot again tomorrow.

The tiles I'll use the chair rail trim on the edges and cut the back row
to match the wall. I think this is the proper way to do it anyway.

The backsplash will go over the cuts hiding them.

I've this done before in my downstairs bathroom and it worked pretty good.

I also have a Dewalt D24000 wet saw which is overkill for this easy ceramic, but makes smooth clean edges. I'll never go back to a snap cutter again. Other than on the sink edge where I need to use nippers.
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Unread 04-25-2019, 08:56 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henry
I'll never go back to a snap cutter again.
I would never say that about my sigma. I use it more than I ever do my wet saw. As for the tile, I was talking about the shape of the tile not the cleanliness of the cut. you will see what I mean when you lay it out.
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Unread 04-25-2019, 04:09 PM   #36
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Well using painter's tape to make the scribe line has an unintended consequence;
it partly tore into the kerdi top.

It's probably ok since it's under the area there I'll have kerdi band.
I tried a china marker taped to the compass/scribe and that worked OK except
the line is way large and indistinct in spite of my sharpening the china marker to
a narrow point.

This is becoming a chore. I have so little room for error.

I think I'm going to try and foam insert along that back edge as originally suggested
vs cutting. The scribe line is 3/8" from the back edge, but I have only 1" over hang
in front. If I've erred in my scribe and I think I have I would end up cutting it too short
and obviously I don't want that.

Two other things have just come up:
The front-left cabinet joint is not flush and pushes the countertop up and the kerdiboard
has a bow. I put a screw in the gap to illustrate the size.
It still shows level but what will this do when I try to use kerdi fix to attach it?
Will putting a couple boxes of tile on top keep it in held down to dry but will the kerdi fix
hold it once I remove the weight.

Anything I can or should do with the cabinet and kerdi board?

*edit* I got some foam weather strip in lieu of backer rod (which only comes in 300 ft rolls at home depot). I also got some stuff that looks kinda like plumbers putty called moretite caulking. I'm thinking it might be better to use since it will let me compress it and conform to the wall accordingly... Maybe both in concert. I'll try in the morning.
*End edit*
Attached Images
  
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Unread 04-27-2019, 02:08 PM   #37
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Bump....

Any thoughts on the last pictures? The kerdi board being bowed with respect to the vanity front edge. I checked level and it doesn't quite measure a bit of bubble off so the level is insignificant. I'm still wondering if the kedifix will
hold it down given the bow? The board flattens out when I apply weight in the middle so I can weight it with boxes of tile, but will the kerdi fix hold it once I remove the weight?

*edit* OH. I sanded down that wood in the corner but it's done nothing for the bow. *end edit*
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Unread 04-27-2019, 09:42 PM   #38
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The wood that sits up taller than the rest of the cabinet needs to be cut down. Have you got an oscillating tool, Henry?
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Unread 04-27-2019, 10:21 PM   #39
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The only thing I have close to an oscillating tool is my dremel with a cut
off wheel. That can get real messy really fast.

I already sanded it as low as I can though. The slight bump remaining
is not actually affecting the kerdi board though. There is definite flex
IN the kerdi board itself.
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Unread 04-28-2019, 06:27 AM   #40
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Utility knife, wood chisel. Do you have a harbor freight near by? Their multi tools are pretty cheap. Use the 20% off coupon and find the coupon for the Free thing that they are giving away.
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Unread 04-28-2019, 09:59 AM   #41
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I already took the spot down as far as I can with a palm sander.

I have enough tools.... I need a garage to store all my $hite as it is.
And all I have is a 25sqft closet.

That spot though is not a factor. The front edge still has a gap. :/
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Unread 04-28-2019, 11:24 AM   #42
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So we are on the same page you are saying the frame eo f your cabinet has a bow in it? If so Slide some shims in there mark them cut them off and glue them down. Then kerdi fix your kerdi board down The tile on the front of the countertop will hide the shims
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Unread 04-28-2019, 12:32 PM   #43
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*rubs temples as mirgraine headache increases*

The bow is larger with the kerdi board than a 5 foot level.
Probably because the level is not spanning the whole bow.

OK. I see how to use shims, but these wood shims are all variable thicknesses. Some taper to 1/16" or less other taper to 1/8".

I sure wish there was a better way than using 20 slivers of wood since that is what I'm going to end up with if each shim is 2" wide. I may use staples instead of glue. I'm gambling a lot on balsa wood. I have a good stanley
staple gun. More true results and less mess.

This is really and truly becoming a chore. And I have not even got to the sheetrock hole being filled or tiling.
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Unread 04-28-2019, 02:29 PM   #44
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Ok lets axe the shims and go with a new 1x that is straight, glued and screwed to the inside of the existing 1x that makes up the face of your cabinet.
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Unread 04-28-2019, 03:48 PM   #45
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I think I have a piece of 1x1 pine downstairs that is 2-3 feet long, but
whether it is straight If I want straight and true I'll try MDF 1x
instead of wood. I've used that for ledger boards. I need some shorter
screws too.

I did use 1x in my other bathroom for attaching a plywood base under ditra, but in that case I screwed to all sides through the cabinet base and the wood from below. I also poked a screw through the laminate. I need to be careful not to repeat that.

Another day since Home Depot is closed now...
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