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Old 12-27-2018, 10:20 PM   #46
Radas
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Was reading on JLC and Terry Love last night on different methods to run pex through an Attic space above the shower without risking frozen pipes and damage to fittings. The general consensus was that the uninsulated pex should be run under the bat insulation as close to the drywall as possible to take advantage of radiant heat from the room below without the use of excessive fittings.

I came up with a solution this evening to shield the rain can plumbing from frost while centering the drop ear fitting to the drain. I began by pushing up the bat insulation (& ~6" of blown in) to accept 2x4 blocking as well as 2" of XPS foam. I wedged the XPS between the blocking and attic baffles to prevent rushing air from the soffits to come in contact with the 1/2" pex line. I then used a pex 90 bracket to bend and run the pex through the wall where the valve and diverter will be located.

Ignore the spray foam mess, I had a lot of extra foam and figured I wouldn't let the can go to waste. I also added blocking for the frameless shower enclosure. All blocking was leveled, flush with the ceiling, and attached using pocket holes/screws for strength.

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Old 12-28-2018, 07:49 AM   #47
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Pocket screws for those 2X4's Ali?

I thought I was going over board by using construction screws for the additional blocking I installed in my ceiling (I actually used screws for all the framing I did).

You're a serious over-achiever.
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Old 12-28-2018, 08:42 AM   #48
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I've used pocket screws to frame a shower, but never took the time to drill the holes with the jig! Nice!

I always hate how sloppy framers put nails in.
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:23 AM   #49
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somebody has themselves a kreg cabinet jig, Nice!!!
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Old 12-28-2018, 10:16 AM   #50
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Dan, I got the blocking idea from looking at your bathroom renovation which makes mine look like child's play. The straight lines and cleanliness satisfies the OCD haha.

Mike, that's exactly why I used pocket holes, screws, and a level. It would bug the hell out of me knowing there were a bunch of lopsided 2x4s behind layers of drywall and tile.

Shawn, I ended up buying the Porter Cable quick jig before it was popular, check out videos, it puts the kreg to shame!

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-.../dp/B004ADJQTO

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Old 12-28-2018, 02:28 PM   #51
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"The straight lines and cleanliness satisfies the OCD"

That it does. Though I didn't use my Kreg jig I did use bar clamps to prevent the 2X's from moving, then pre-drilled the holes to keep them from splitting.

An illness, it is.
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Old 12-28-2018, 08:34 PM   #52
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An illness, it is.
It's a blessing and a curse.

Ready for drywall. Got the plumbing all done with PEX, tested every connection with a go/no go gauge and pressurized the system. Also added R3 XPS to the wall with plumbing on it for sound deadening.

The drop ell to the right of the mixer is for the hand shower hose and the drop ell in the ceiling is for an 8" rain can. Delta R10000 mixer and R11000 3/6 diverter if anyone is curious.

Edit* I just noticed that I need to secure the 12/2.

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Old 12-28-2018, 10:30 PM   #53
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Looks good, Ali. I like your attention to detail. I am always a bit unsettled by those PEX connections and I know I shouldn't be because they're fine. I am just a 100% copper/sweat guy when it comes to plumbing inside walls.
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Old 12-28-2018, 10:37 PM   #54
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FWIW, one of the main benefits of pex is its flexibility and the ability to omit many fittings. Each fitting in the type you chose creates a restriction and can reduce the working pressure and volume down the line. While it doesn't look as neat, you could have easily omitted a bunch of fittings, saved yourself some time and money. It might look funky, but then, you're covering it all up. Each connection is also a possible point of failure. ONe can run it similarly to copper, but why?
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Old 12-28-2018, 10:43 PM   #55
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Looks good, Ali. I like your attention to detail. I am always a bit unsettled by those PEX connections and I know I shouldn't be because they're fine. I am just a 100% copper/sweat guy when it comes to plumbing inside walls.
Thank you Wolfgang. Our entire house is plumbed in PEX with the exception of required copper stub outs and water heater/furnace. I figure, what's another wall with PEX in it? Haha

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Old 12-28-2018, 11:07 PM   #56
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FWIW, one of the main benefits of pex is its flexibility and the ability to omit many fittings. Each fitting in the type you chose creates a restriction and can reduce the working pressure and volume down the line. While it doesn't look as neat, you could have easily omitted a bunch of fittings, saved yourself some time and money. It might look funky, but then, you're covering it all up. Each connection is also a possible point of failure. ONe can run it similarly to copper, but why?
Thanks Jim. There are 4 90s I debated on excluding, but they made the run go a little easier. As for the cost of fittings and time, $10 and the milwaukee short throw makes little work of the crimping.

I did follow your advice to others on Terry Love regarding PTFE tape and pipe dope, very helpful and kept my fittings from leaking the first time without adjustments.

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Old 12-29-2018, 06:58 AM   #57
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Did you install those shut off's so you could restore water to the rest of the house while you finished the shower plumbing, Ali? Any code compliance issue with those valves being inaccessible?
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:27 AM   #58
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Did you install those shut off's so you could restore water to the rest of the house while you finished the shower plumbing, Ali? Any code compliance issue with those valves being inaccessible?
Dan, that would be correct. Not that I know of, I dug through Michigan UPC and didn't find anything. A quick search on Terry love gave me nothing other than 'adding a shut off for a shower is either pointless or personal preference.'

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.p...cessary.34321/

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Old 12-29-2018, 07:56 AM   #59
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Wink

if you are ocd, you could have notched the studs for the steel plates to prevent a hump
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Old 12-29-2018, 09:42 AM   #60
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I like the shutoffs but I normally put them so they are accessable if you every need to replace the valve then you can shut off just the shower and not the whole house. In your case might have put them below so you could access them from the ceiling or even in the wall below and make a access panel and put a picture over it. As for those plates a planner makes quick work for notching. Those things will cause bump in your wall that you will be cussing at, as you set tile
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