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Old 06-30-2014, 02:45 PM   #1
strichzwei
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Scott's Master Bath Remodel

Lurker here with my first post, Hi!

I am a DIY'er in the midst of a complete bathroom gut. I am planning my first (traditional) shower pan build where there was previously a cultured marble insert.

The first problem I am running into, and hoping to get some advice from the forum, is the vent pipe. It is proud of the stud wall surface by about a ˝ inch and I am not sure the best way to tackle the problem. The vent pipe was poorly placed when the slab was cast and then the reducer bushing has aggravated the situation on top of it being angled inwards somewhat. I am reluctant to shim the area as the wall is pretty flat. I plan on the entire 10’ wall (where it is now missing drywall in the picture) to be tiled (12x24) and cannot imagine shimming the whole wall.

One thought I had was to simply relieve the 5/8” cement board around the pipe (see photo of the cardboard “mock-up”). I think this would leave enough room for pipe/felt/liner and allow the tile to lay flat, but not sure how unorthodox this would be and if it would result in issues down the road.

Would love to hear your thoughts and opinions on how to do this right.

Thanks,
Scott
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:31 PM   #2
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Welcome, Scott.

My first try would be to move that bushing down to the floor so my bump-out would be very minimal and may, if you're planning a traditional shower pan, be covered by your two layers of deck mud an won't interfere with your wallboard at all.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:33 PM   #3
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Scott~As you said, you might be able to "relieve" the backerboard behind it. In addition, it might be possible to grind down the flange on the pipe, itself. There is plenty of "meat" on it and, that coupled with with the CBU removal just might get you to a "Flat Plane."
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:50 PM   #4
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I'd put a nice long (4 feet isn't long) straight edge on the studs in several places and see how flat the wall actually is. If it's perfectly flat, shimming will be a cinch. The further from "perfect" it is, the more important it is that you shim it anyway.
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:07 PM   #5
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I'd saw off the pipe close the floor and use a fernco there and at the point where it needs to 90. Flexible enough to eliminate the problem.
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:45 PM   #6
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I'm no plumber but would an inside pipe reducer exist for the pipes you have?

http://www.h2oco.com/online_catalog/catalog/k/k_2.htm
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:58 PM   #7
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I'd try what Paul suggested.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:51 PM   #8
strichzwei
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Great ideas guys, thanks!

I think a combination of these will get me where I need to go.

Is anyone aware of a reducer that is inside 2" to outside 1 1/2", that would be a huge help!!!!

thanks,
Scott
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott
Is anyone aware of a reducer that is inside 2" to outside 1 1/2", that would be a huge help!!!!
I'm not aware of one made for DWV applications....perhaps for pools or irrigation (which I think is what Chucky's link takes you to). I'm not certain I'd go that route though.

If it were my project I'd try what CX and Paul suggested - relocating that hub as close to the floor as you can and having it get lost (if you will) in the base of your shower pan. If that didn't get me where I needed to be then I'd either shim the wall out and/or relief cut the wall substrate.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:39 PM   #10
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Scott, I used one of those bushing that you're looking for just a few weeks ago to plumb the drain for an icemaker. They're out there, you just may have to go to a plumbing supply house to get it.
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:58 PM   #11
strichzwei
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Add blocking to 2x4 stud wall for stiffness?

Hello everybody, would appreciate some advice on my stud walls.

Everywhere you see studs will be tiled. The facing wall (with vent pipe) is an outside wall and has no sheathing. The silvery board you see is some sort of thermal cardboard and then outside brick, apparently this was OK back in '86 when the house was built (Austin, TX). The 2x4 studs go up about 10 feet to the window. I can push the studs in and out a bit and was wondering if there was a way to stiffen them up a bit. I will of course put insulation back in before I install 5/8" durock, but do you all think I should also put some blocking in - between 4 and about 6 feet up the wall?

Thanks,
Scott
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:10 PM   #12
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I'm not a structural guy so I'll let other comment on that but you're supposed to have blocking around the base to the shower and it's not a bad idea to add some in at the seams of the cement board. 3'H; 6'H etc.
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:52 PM   #13
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That wall will stiffen right up with tile and grout on it. It wouldn't hurt to sister up some studs . Not sure that blocking will do that much. If it's a shower wall then maybe make it a tad stiffer. If it's just a tile wall that doesn't need to be water proof then I wouldn't bother with it at all.
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:42 PM   #14
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Extra studs are helpful if you want a stronger wall and to bring a bowed joist back in line. It's good to add blocking now for any point where you may want to mount a bar or fixture later.
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:20 PM   #15
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Both blocking and doubling the studs will help, but honestly, if you're really adding 5/8 Durock or drywall, then just that will stiffen that wall too. Lay the sheets with the long dimension across the studs and stagger the vertical joints by half the long dimension, and use screws and glue to attach them. A layer of plywood under the Durock/drywall is another option.
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