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Old 06-16-2019, 09:55 PM   #136
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Best way is a 2x4 set across the opening, screwed to the sides. It looks like you still have bare lumber to screw into.

If not, a few appropriately cut 2x4's supporting the tile from the bottom of the opening.
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:29 AM   #137
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Kerdifix is NOT approved to be used as waterproofing sealant. Think of it as a glue, that MAY seal water, but it also might leak. It is used to adhere kerdiboard to things and adhere kerdi to things. The waterproofing is always supposed to be from overlapping kerdi membrane with an approved thinset as the bonding agent of the two membranes.
Mike,

Sorry, don't want to hi-jack but this is relevant to my install. I used kerdi-fix to seal the ~1/4" gap between my tub deck and aquadefense-sealed cement board in a tub surround. The flange goes up behind the CBU. Was going to kerdi-band it too but didn't because it seemed like going overboard. Most of this is still exposed, is the band a must in this application?

Edit: Adding diagram.
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Old 06-21-2019, 11:22 AM   #138
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Paul, Someone will probably move this to a separate thread.
Sealing behind the CBU below the top of the tub flange on a bathtub is different than on a wall seam. Are you talking about you sealed straight from the CBO down to the bathtub or from the CBU back to the flange? I don't see how you could kerdie band from the CBU to the bathtub. Tile usually comes down below the CBU then you caulk between the bottom tile and the bathtub. So your kerdi fix should not see any wetness
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Old 06-21-2019, 12:18 PM   #139
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Agreed, your issue is much different. Plus, I would not combine kerdiband with aquadefense even IF you could. Just curious as to why you applied kerdifix? I would have just used silicone if anything at all.
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:45 PM   #140
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I've been working on this for a long time and can't always remember exactly why I decided on one thing vs another. Best I can remember, I'm using ditra on the floor and needed kerdi-band/kerdi-fix to waterproof the seem at the base of the tub. If I used the same method all around the tub, I wouldn't have a joint between dissimilar methods and the kerdi-band would protect the seal if I had to cut out the silicone on the outside. Then I decided the band was overkill and just went with kerdi-fix because it's a high-quality product.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:34 PM   #141
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Paul, I moved your post from the other visitor's thread to avoid confusion there. Best to keep your project questions on your project thread.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:52 AM   #142
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Paul, I think what is meant is that you could do without any sealant there. If water gets above that point your tub is overflowing down the front stairs. Usually your tile hangs down from the CBU and the bead of caulk between tile and tub is used. Something flexible. Many grouts have a matching color caulk.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:57 AM   #143
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Sorry, CX.

So is kerdi-fix good enough to caulk the tub-to-wallboard joint as shown in the diagram above? Seems to hold soundly, tools great. Deforms 200% before breaking according to the spec sheet. It's good enough to seal pipe openings and tub rim joints behind kerdi-band. Schluter said they wouldn't warranty what I did but I didn't expect that they would. What am I missing that makes this less effective than silicone or polyurethane caulk?

I realize it's not the same as shower walls but might see water. It's right above a horizontal surface and if I don't seal it well it might wick up the cement board. A bit worried that if there are any voids in the mortar, water could collect there. Also the flange doesn't run all the way around, it ends a few inches short of the front edge of the tub. I don't expect to have a stream running into the wall but it could seep.
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Old 06-22-2019, 11:59 AM   #144
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I would personally not caulk that joint at all, Paul, nor would I apply the direct bonded waterproofing membrane to the bottom edge of the wallboard as shown in your drawing (a very nice drawing, by the way). I would be in favor of stopping the wallboard about 1/4" above the horizontal portion of the tub and leaving it as is. If you get water deeper than that remaining in that area of the tub, you have a tub problem. If you do not have that much water pooling there, you'll have no wicking problem. And should you gather any moisture in the rest of your wallboard, gravity will eventually take it to that gap if it hasn't already evaporated before that.

You will, per tile industry standards, have a bead of flexible sealant between the bottom of your wall tile and the tub, although I take issue with that and would want at least to leave some weep holes in that sealant installation. But that is:

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-21-2019, 08:39 AM   #145
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I have a window opening to tile:
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The tile is 12x12 and the opening is about 3 3/4" deep. The corners are mitered. Any advice on setting the tile at the top so that it stays until the mortar sets? I'm using CBP proLite which hangs pretty well but I do fine tweaking to line things up and I'm afraid it'll sag out of alignment.
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:02 AM   #146
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Not likely to sag out of alignment. But you can use 1/4" dowels or something similarly skinny and cut to a tiny bit longer than the height needed...then used as prop sticks. The more you align them to straight vertical, the slightly taller they get. But make sure they aren't bent where they are applying a lot of pressure upwards or they may slowly push your tiles out of alignment.

But I'd simply get full coverage of mortar above the tiles and tweak them into position by sliding the tiles laterally while pushing them up into their final height and final alignment. Then leave them alone. If you really want, you could gently place a horseshoe spacer into the open miter of the corner if that makes you feel better.

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Old 07-31-2019, 07:31 PM   #147
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Window surround is done.
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The beveled outside corner joints ended up pretty tight. There's maybe 1/32" between the beveled edges in places. The total width of the joint from glazed edge to glazed edge isn't much less than 1/8".
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I wasn't thinking about it when I was setting but is this going to be a problem for finishing them? I'm planning to use color rite sanded caulk on these. How do you tool silicone nicely on outside corners? I've got the color rite tool and spray for the inside corners.
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:01 AM   #148
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IMO, since that assembly is basically a niche, and I'm guessing you screwed the farming together, I'd be grouting all those joints, Paul, and only caulking the tile to window joints. You could perhaps tool silicone to look acceptable but I have my doubts, and those are going to be pretty prominent corners.
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:29 AM   #149
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What Dan said.
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Old 08-01-2019, 07:09 AM   #150
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Did I just screw up here big time? I was thinking the joint width is the distance between the top edges of the adjacent tiles but they look way smaller than the regular joints. Plan is to use Fusion Pro grout and the spec says 1/16" and up. Considering going back and widening the grout line with a diamond needle file.

The framing around the window is screwed together, yes, but there may still be some movement. After the finished CBU sat for a while, the inside corners developed some hairline cracks and those had been finished with flexbond (and mesh tape). The outside corners on the front edge seemed ok. There's aquaD and mesh fabric over all of it. Still sound like it's best to grout everything but the window joint? If so, any tips on tooling the grout over those tight joints?
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