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Unread 08-02-2010, 12:23 PM   #1
jwitt98
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Shower pan deck mud question - latex additive or not?

I'm going to be doing my first tile shower installation. One of the problems I've ran into is some conflicting advice on mixing the deck mud, so I'd like to ask some of the pros here on this site.
I have two sources of information, one from a book I bought from Lowe's, and one online source that can be found here: http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

Both sources say to use a latex additive for the bottom layer of deck mud, but the book implies that the top layer is mixed with the latex additive exactly like the bottom layer, while the online source specifically says to not use a latex additive for the top layer.

So which source is right?

Thanks in advance!
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Unread 08-02-2010, 12:30 PM   #2
cx
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Welcome back, Jeff.

If you'll go to the Shower Construction section of our whirl-famous
Liberry, you'll find (scroll way down below the Harry Dunbar pan thread) more information on deck mud and one post specifically directed toward your question.

Clearly there is some disagreement in the industry, but you neither need nor want any additive in the final mud bed of a traditional shower pan.

That said, you could argue the other side by quoting from the ANSI Standards, which invites you to "make the mortar bed water-resistant by using an admixture." Same standard that calls for a richer mix for shower floor mud than for dry area deck mud.

I do not now, nor am I likely ever to understand why either of those is called for, and the adding of an admixture to make the mud water-resistant is precisely what we do not want in a shower mud bed. We want water to be able to pass readily through the mud to the weep holes in the drain.

But I didn't write the Standard and the above is:

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-02-2010, 08:46 PM   #3
jwitt98
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CX,
Thanks for clearing that up. And thanks for the link. I found a lot of good information there, all worth reading.
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Unread 08-02-2010, 09:04 PM   #4
jwitt98
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Shower Drain Question

I'm preparing to install my first shower pan. I'll be going the custom base route using deck mud, liner, etc.
I found multiple sources of information that say, when applying the final layer of deck mud, to leave the strainer high enough to allow for the tile, so that the tile will come out flush with the top of the strainer.
Here is my dilemma:
The drain I have, has a strainer that measures exactly 2 1/4 inches from the top of the strainer cap to the bottom of the threads. I have read the minimum thickness of the mud bed should be 1 1/4 inches. The pebble tile I have for the floor is approximately 3/8 inches and allowing 1/8" for the thinset means the total strainer height would be 1 3/4 inches.
This only leaves 1/2 inch to thread the strainer into the base. If I were to go the recommended 1 1/2 inch for the bed thickness, it would on leave 1/4 inch of thread into the base.
Did I not get the right drain? It seems the strainer threads should be longer.
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Unread 08-02-2010, 10:17 PM   #5
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Jeff, it's helpful if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see the history and what's been previously asked and answered. We can change the title to something more generic any time you'd like to suggest one.

On some of those drains it's possible to turn the top of the clamping portion over such that the female threaded part points up instead of down and gives you an additional half-inch or more of drain height.

Might wanna check yours.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 08-02-2010, 11:14 PM   #6
jwitt98
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Sorry, I could have swore I was starting a new thread. Then I saw my post in the same thread i started earlier. I'm really not sure how that happened.
Please move this to a new thread if possible.

I don't think the one I have is reversible. It has channels on the bottom that lead to the weep holes. The brand is Oatey.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 04:34 AM   #7
Davestone
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You could find a differnt drain top with a longer drain or get a drain extenxion kit of which i can't find a link right now,sorry.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 04:56 AM   #8
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You can make new channels on the opposite side of the flange. Use a file or Dremel tool. They don't have to be pretty.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 05:59 AM   #9
Brian in San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff
Please move this to a new thread if possible.
What CX was trying to tell you (post #5) is that we want all questions pertaining to the same project on the same thread. Please use this thread for the bath remodel you are undertaking. We like everything all together.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 07:15 AM   #10
jwitt98
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Davestone,
Is this the extension kit you were referring to? It looks like it would work.
http://www.plasticoddities.com/image...l/CSPX406A.jpg
Do you know if Lowe's sells these?

If I made channels with a dremel on the other side, they would have to be directly opposite the channels on the top side, in which case they would likely go all the way through the flange since the existing channels are already half way through. Even if they didn't go all the way through, I would be afraid that it would weaken the flange too much in those areas.

Surely other drains aren't this way, are they? Since most tile I've seen is the same approximate thickness as the pebble tile. Should I just look for a longer drain, or is 1/2 inch to 1/4 inch of thread into the base adequate?

Brian,
Ok, I get it now. I'm used to other forums that yell at you if you don't start a new thread for each new topic. Thanks for clearing that up.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 09:31 AM   #11
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Whos drain is it?(mfg) Like Bob said ,most drains have a clamping ring that can be turned over to gain 1/2" -3/4".. Our drain goes out to approx 3' when flipped and has weeps on both sides of the ring.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 08:16 PM   #12
jwitt98
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The maker of the drain is Oatey and the model is 42202.
I've attached some pictures of what the drain looks like and what the upper flange looks like top and bottom.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 04:57 AM   #13
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Jeff, make your new channels between the old ones, not aligned with them. It looks like a good spot would be where the weep holes are. The channels do not have to be quite as deep as the originals, either.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 07:24 AM   #14
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Also note, that the drain has the "slot" in the female thread ,and the holes that Bob is pointing at also are weeps..JUST DONT CAULK ABOVE THE LINER!
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Unread 08-04-2010, 08:56 AM   #15
jwitt98
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Oh, I see. Well, I hope i got his right.
Is it OK to caulk below the liner, or is this not recommended?
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