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Old 08-13-2018, 06:47 PM   #16
sanpilot
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Reply to CK 07:57 - "Spot Method" huh? I am not a fan.

OK - no known repair, so I have to imagine one. Here's what I propose....

1) Remove grout from failed joint
2) Inject mud (see note below) to fill voids to slow the water down
3) Inject silicon to seal grout joint
4) Regrout
5) Retest

As a minimum steps three and four do the same thing as the tape does today to prevent a leak by keeping massive amounts of water from getting behind the tile. Filling the voids is insurance against future grout failures. What do you think, is this a workable, could this plan be improved?


Note - Back in the 1960's there was a kids toy called Silly Sand where you made "art work" by squeezing a water/sand mix from a bottle - I need a cement version of that to fill the voids. I think if I could get very fine mud, mix it up extra runny, I could inject it to fill the voids behind the tiles and have it wash down to fill voids. To make this stuff up, what is the finest grade of mud available on the market to try this with?
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Old 08-13-2018, 07:00 PM   #17
sanpilot
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Reply to WorkHurts @ 09:18 - Thanks for the tip, will take a look.
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Old 08-13-2018, 09:50 PM   #18
ZZZK
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Charlie unfortunately any fix is just a band aid solution to the fact that the shower wasn't waterproofed properly. Nothing to lose at this point though except potential further water damage and mold abatement.
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Old 08-17-2018, 12:43 AM   #19
sanpilot
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Could I get a couple of other responses to my proposed repair and suggestion for a fine mud product? Thanks.

Charlie
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:52 AM   #20
makethatkerdistick
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I am not very optimistic about your fine mud approach. If it is so fine to actually run down the voids, then it'll have a lot of water in it. Once it dries, it'll shrink and not adequately fill the space. Conversely, if your mud is of the proper thickness, then you won't be able to fill the voids in the first place.
If I tried this, I'd probably use a thinset product and not mud and make it runny enough. But I doubt it would be successful.

Maybe some sort of engineered product would be a better choice (like a liquid sealant or two-part epoxy that cures without air drying). But if you spill that you might have a huge mess on your hands.
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Old 08-17-2018, 05:09 PM   #21
Raymond S
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If the tile was installed using the “spotting” method, it’ll take a wheelbarrow load.
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:23 PM   #22
sanpilot
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Thanks for the latest input. Separately talked with several retired coworkers today (rental owners). Their universal input was similar ZZZK's comment about band-aids. That said, I think the thinned-thinset maybe the best approach to get back to the intended design. I could do an engineered epoxy solution, but lack or porosity may create other problems - same as after the first repair attempt where the water just comes out somewhere else. I am going to sleep on this another night or two and I'll let you know. Thanks all for the thoughtful input.

Charlie
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