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Unread 03-19-2007, 04:25 PM   #1
BMcDonald
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 5
My first tile projects

Hey guys this is my first post but I've been reading the forum & library quite a bit in preparation for my kitchen & bath remodel. I have to say that this is the place to come for tile info. I've got everything gutted, my walls/doors framed and I'm nearing the stage where I need to start working on the tile. We havent picked tile yet so I'm open to options.

Kitchen-
Joists are 2x10 16"o.c. w/12' span. DEFLECTO # of L/558. I have an adjacent wood floor that is 3/4" above sub floor.

Bath-
Joists are 2x10 16"o.c. w/13' span. DEFLECTO # of L/458.
The subfloor is 1x6 structural plank, and I have double joists every 4th joist or so in both cases. Now to my questions.

Kitchen Floor-
Considering the existing adjacent 3/4" floor, I dont want to add more than 1"-1 1/4" of total thickness including the tile.

1) How much thickness should I allow for Ditra and mortar on both sides. Is 3/8" about right?
2)Ditra or cement board-Does the install for Ditra really go that much easier?

My Options-

Ditra Install- 1/2" OSB underlayment (Ditra install instructions say thats enough), Ditra, Tile.

CBU Install - 1/2" OSB underlayment, 1/4" CBU, Tile.

3) Any recommendations or changes?


Tub/Shower-
I have ~1 1/4"mortar base w/mesh fastened directly to studs. The tile ends about 12" short of the top of the shower. The remaining walls & ceiling are 3/8" drywall covered with 1/2" plaster.

4) Should I just rip out the rest of the wall and run my backer to the top?
5) The tub is in good shape and solid but the color stinks. Is it worth bothering trying to get this resurfaced or should I just replace it? How do these resurface jobs look?
6)If I understand correctly if I use Kerdi on walls standard drywall is acceptable. What is preffered?

Bathroom Floor-
1 1/2" mortar base w/ 3/4" tiles. I have to tear out since adding another not really an option and the floor has a slight crown in it. So adjacent floor height is not an issue here and I have to make up about the thickness to match the toilet flange.
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Unread 03-19-2007, 04:31 PM   #2
John Bridge
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Hi B, Please list a first name.

I would rip out the entire tub surround and start from scratch.

Yes, Ditra is a lot easier to install than backer board. Along with thin set it still won't consume much more than about 3/16 of an inch.
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Unread 03-19-2007, 07:58 PM   #3
BMcDonald
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Thanks for the answers John

I leaning towards tearing everything out and replacing the tub. On the tub surround, should I also tearout the ceiling or can I leave that?

Bob
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Unread 03-21-2007, 09:15 PM   #4
BMcDonald
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I decided to go with Hardibacker since I want to complete the underlayment this weekend.

Kitchen-
1/2" OSB, 1/4" hardbacker over 1x6" structural plank subfloor. with my 5/16" tile that will give me ~1 1/16" and still be under my sliding door.

Bath-
Still need to pick my tile but I have to make up 1 1/2" to the toilet flange (cast iron). So more than likely this will be 5/8" OSB & 1/2" Hardbacker.

I think I can also get the tub surround walls up this weekend and will use 1/2" Hardibacker. How do I finish the outside corners where the hardbacker meets my new drywall? Do I want the surround tile to come right to the corner or end a little short and how will this affect my corner finish?

Thanks Bob

Last edited by BMcDonald; 03-21-2007 at 09:22 PM.
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Unread 03-23-2007, 08:41 AM   #5
BMcDonald
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Hey guys, I need some help on properly setting my walls to get a good corner. What is an acceptable way to finish the outside corner where my tub surround meets the drywall (green arrow in my pic). I was planning on using the Schulter-RONDEC corner.

Do I need to use the same fiberglass tape used on the Hardi joints on this corner and just use the joint compound to imbed it on the drywall side?

Thanks

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