Trowel notch size for 12x24

[tl1552]

Trying to determine the notch size for my installation of 12x24 non-rectified porcelain.

I took two of the tiles and stacked them back-to-back to see how much curve the have in the middle and they seem fairly flat.

Would it be a good idea to get both a 3/8 square notch and 1/2 square notch?

My idea is to backbutter the tile and test the first one with a 3/8 notch then pry it up. If the coverage is not adequate then switch to the 1/2 notch for the rest of the job.

The installation will be on ditra using mapei uncoupling membrane mortar.

[Tiger Mountain Tile Inc]

I'd go straight for the 1/2 inch deep notch trowel

[tl1552]

My project is tiling a small laundry closet (about 3.5ft x 6ft) with 12x24 porcelain.

I'm wanting to avoid having to purchase/rent a wetsaw for only a few cuts. I'm thinking to perform all of the cuts with my 4" hand grinder and good quality dry diamond blade.

I'm also working solo on a 2nd floor so I'm wanting to pre-cut all my pieces then just assemble vs running up and down the stairs for every cut while installing.

A couple questions:

- Is the 4" Dewalt xp4 a good quality blade?

- Is pre-cutting / numbering all my pieces a good idea?

[ss3964spd]

No reason you can't give it a try, Tino, as long as those cut edges will be hidden by baseboard or other trim.

No idea if the DW blade is "good", but if your cuts will be hidden by trim you don't really need a great blade.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to number your pieces.

Is this project the same part of your original thread here? https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...d.php?t=127550

[tl1552]

All of the edges will be hidden by trim. Its part of the same project.

Do you have any links on good technique when cutting porcelain with a hand grinder?

[RichVT]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgNasC4hirI

[tl1552]

In the video the guy was cutting on top of a scrap of plywood. Does plunging the diamond blade into wood cause any blade issues?

[RichVT]

He claims that it helps to keep the blade cool.

[tl1552]

I'm going to be using Schluter Schiene as a transition from tile to vinyl plank inside a 5' wall opening. I've attached a diagram of the result I'm looking for. I just have a few questions for anyone who has used this type of product.

- Is it OK to install the Schiene right at the edge of the underlayment (see attachment)

- Can I mortar in the Schiene to my Ditra the day before doing my tile?

- If so can I do this immediately after installing the Ditra.

- If so to the above can I use the remainder of the modified mortar used for Ditra installation

[Tool Guy - Kg]

Originally Posted by tl1552

- Is it OK to install the Schiene right at the edge of the underlayment (see attachment)

That’s a question best answered by the vinyl plank install instructions. Do they specify a perimeter gap to allow for movement?

Originally Posted by tl1552

- Can I mortar in the Schiene to my Ditra the day before doing my tile?

It’s really held in place by being captured by the mortar hardening around the open webs of the profile, not by adhesion. What’s the reason to install ahead of time? I wouldn’t want to do that, because it removes a little bit of flexibility of moving it flush with the tile.

Originally Posted by tl1552

- If so can I do this immediately after installing the Ditra.

I guess, but it’s in somewhat of a delicate state. And if you break it loose while tiling, you may end up with an air void under there...which wouldn't be good.

Originally Posted by tl1552

- If so to the above can I use the remainder of the modified mortar used for Ditra installation

You could, if you allowed it to dry. But see above answer.

[risotttto]

My understanding is that the Schiene is held in by mortar wrapping around the bars and seeping around the holes in the horizontal flat section. You could pre-fill the notches in the Ditra the day before, but your Schiene would not stick to that, just sit on the surface.

If you want it in there permanently, I would follow the instructions and embed it in the wet notched mortar before laying the tile. Just installed one a few weeks ago, only advice would be to be weary of how high it sits in the wet notches, tweakable a bit while wet to match the height of the tile.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

A whole lot of floors can be installed with just a snapper and/or grinder.

I might not agree with everything the guy says in that video (including his incorrect claim that the plywood cools the blade), but he does show the versatility of a grinder and diamond blade.

[MesaTileworks]

I’ve had better luck installing those strips at the same time as the tile. That way the mortar that the tile is adhering to also locks into the holes in the trim strip. Depending on the tile, you may want a bit of extra mortar in the area where the edge of the tile rests on the Schluter strip. Sometimes I’ve peeled these off and not had full coverage without adding a bit more.

I’ve never put this type of trim strip over Ditra before, but I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work. The finish on some of those strips is not super tough though. The white one for example, I wouldn’t use in an area that’s going to be exposed to foot traffic, as they scratch easily.

[jadnashua]

When installing any of the profiles, make sure to clean off any thinset that will be in an area that shows as it can stain the profile, or pit it if it cures, then you try to knock it off. You'll probably fine it easier if you do it while setting the tile.

[Davy]

I wouldn't try to cut the whole thing downstairs ahead of time. I would draw or pop lines on the floor, lay in (dry) all the full pieces and take down a few cuts at a time.