Kent's basement bath redo

[ss3964spd]

Kent, the 5/16 Rondec should be what you want.

The 1/4X1/4 might work. Only way to know for sure (aside from experience) is to set a few tiles with it then remove them to check for coverage.

Back buttering will go along way to properly adhering the tile, and if do burn a later of VB onto the backs of them it's more likely the 1/4X1/4 trowel will work fine.

I didn't go back to check; what are you sticking them tiles to? CBU, Hardie, membrane?

[kdev]

Dan,

Thanks for the advice on the Rondec.

I'm tiling to drywall and USG foam backer board.

Here's a few pictures of the current state. You can see that I did a test board of tile to help me get a feel for it and that was a big help.

Next question... in the corners how big of a gap should I leave between the final tile and the wall?

Thanks,
Kent

[ss3964spd]

I used the USG foam boards for mine too, Kent, really liked them.

For the corners; do you mean where the tile stops at a corner next to an untiled wall? For that I prefer a tight joint, 1/16th. If it's tile to tile then not more than 1/8".

[kdev]

Let's see if we're on the same page... I'm tiling every wall so there is kind of a hidden gap back there.

In the pic 'This gap' is what I'm referring to...

Is this the gap you prefer to be tight?

Kent

[ss3964spd]

Yup, same page, Kent, you'll want those corner joints to be about 1/8th of an inch.

The goal is not to fill the void completely, but enough that the caulking will adhere to the edge of one tile and to the face of the other, so ensure you set the tile with probably not less than 1/8", just as that diagram shows.

Silicone caulk, not acrylic.

[kdev]

Before I tile the [below grade] concrete floor I need to fill in some low spots and flatten it out.

I have grinded the existing concrete down such that it now absorbs water (it previously had vinyl floor glued down on it).

I'm looking for a recommendation for a floor patch product that I can trowel from a featheredge to ~1/2" thick in some spots and that will then be suitable for a 12x12" ceramic tile install.

I found this at the local box store... any experience with this product or any recommended substitute?

Henry 547 Universal Patch and Skimcoat

It looks to be ok to my untrained eye but I cannot find anything in the instructions that say it is suitable for use under a ceramic tile install.

Thanks in advance,
Kent

[cx]

I've not used the 547.

In the same brand is Henry's Feather Finish (549), which I know would be good for your application. Download the TDS and follow the directions. Sets up quick, so don't mix until you're surface is prepared and you're ready to apply the product.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[kdev]

I tiled a bit today and when I noticed the thinset was drying quickly on the wall (it still seemed fine in the bucket) I stopped setting and proceeded to scrape off and toss the thinset I had already combed out.

Can I pick back up tiling anytime or do I need to wait for that area of scraped off thinset to dry for some minimum amount of time?

Thanks,
Kent

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[cx]

Good move, Kent. Continue on at any time. If you don't plan to continue before the mortar actually sets, be sure to scrape the wall very clean before you stop. I'd wipe mine with a wet sponge, too.

The time the mortar can remain on the wall and still be usable is called the open time. The time the mortar can remain usable in the bucket is called the pot life. Both times are indicated in the mortar manufacturer's Technical Data Sheet (TDS). The TDS values will have been established under laboratory conditions. Your mileage will vary.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[kdev]

Thanks cx

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[kdev]

Slow but steady. This is the first time I've tiled anything but I think I've found a good recipe for how much thinset to mix and how to comb it out etc. The first couple of thinset batches I mixed were hilariously large and also too loose. I also found that 2 gal buckets are my friend compared to the 5 gal variety. Good times.

One question though... Do I need to clean my thinset mixing bucket between each batch? If it matters I'm using Versabond

Right now I am doing that and it is taking up time that that I could be tiling.

Thanks again and as always respect to those of you who earn a living at this!

Kent

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[cx]

Kent, it's best you at least scrape the buckets really clean between batches and actually rinsing them would be better. The guys who tile for a living may get by without doing so because they're going a lot faster than you will and the results will be less likely to become problematic. The old mortar mixing with the new mortar can reduce the pot life and open time of the new mortar. The more old that's in the bucket, the more likely that is to occur. May not be a problem for you, but it can be.

Don't need to render the bucket clean enough to eat from, just pretty clean, eh?

Your first try at tiling is looking pretty good so far.

My opinio; worth price charged.

[ss3964spd]

I also favored the 2 gallon bucket I used for mixing my mortar, Kent. I found that mixing an almost full 2 gallons corresponded nicely with my ability and speed to use most of it. I was also really diligent with cleaning out my bucket. after each use. But very time consuming, yes.

[Tool Guy - Kg]

After scraping the bucket of as much mortar you can get out, using a pot-scrubbing pad with water is quite helpful at cleaning the bucket. The bigger, the better.

[kdev]

Thanks for the responses gentlemen. Need to think about how to adjust my methods to make faster progress...

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